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Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 4:48 pm
by Forket
Dear Bolter

I have spent my December month in Oudtshoorn trying to "crush". It came to our attention that a friend's family owns the crag on the way to De Hoek campsite. This is the cave like crag (seen from road) that you pass between the Wilgewandel restaurant and the final turnoff to de Hoek campsite.

We had been told that archiologists had excuvated there on the left in 93 and had also been told that the owner had asked them to remove their junk years ago. The site has not been cleaned and has a lot of scaffolding and plastic bags lying around. The site is therefore no longer being actively excuvated.

The super nice owner lady had given us permission to check out the place and climb if we wanted. She doesn't mind people going to check out the cave and crag if permission is asked on BoomPlaas 7. This is one of the nicest owners of a crag I've come across.

What came next gave us a shock...

Most likely the best easy climbing family limestone crag around. Pockets everywhere. Not the usual sharp stuff as around de hoek. What came next shocked even more. 3 routes had been opened. With grades written on the rock. One of these routes, most likely the access route, bolted with what may seem yellow unrated hardware store bolts. A clear grade written below showing its opened?! It also has glue reinforced holds....

The owner was not aware of this. They don't mind climbers and will gladly give permission to anyone rocking up and asking to check out the place.

So who the hell would go bolt routes without asking permission and then go do it with unrated bolts?!

Bolts are compression not glue ins.

Ebert Nel

Re: Oudtshoorn

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:04 pm
by Forket

Re: Oudtshoorn

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 8:53 pm
by XMod
Um hmmm, weve been thru this before. The bolter has been kakked on already.

What would be awesome though (moving forward) would be to charm the owner into letting us develop the crag properly (with glue-ins if the stone is soft), maybe we can negotiate a more permanent access arrangement in return for clearing away all the archaeologists junk and building a proper path?

Don't hate on this post automatically (I know Ive taken some jabs at you on this forum before - my apologies), Im serious, that's an absolutely awesome crag, it would be fantastic to get proper access and bolts sorted out.

Cheetahs are cool, cheaters (the sneaky bolter) not so cool.

Re: Oudtshoorn

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 12:07 pm
by Forket
Thanks for the response. Didn't know it had been up Nd discussed. Just think threowner needs an apology.

Access wont be an issue. Just go asl at the farmhouse and I don't think there will be any problems. And im sure cleaning the place up a bit would leave a good impression.


Re: Oudtshoorn

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 1:48 pm
by XMod
Yeah, I know the bolter, who was rather upset with me for revealing his identity when the first uproar broke about the bolting there (I don't want to go into a name-and-shame again as it just causes more friction in the community) We will just have to apologise on his behalf. Its awesome that your impression of the owner is that they would be open to further bolting.

Definitely clean up and fix path if we develop it, make a team effort of it. I haven't been there but from what I gather the rock is a more porous type and more fragile than the Main crag - hence glue re-enforcement on some holds. This may indicate that glue-in bolts would be the way to go there.

I look forward to seeing what transpires at the crag - could be good! :thumleft:

Re: Oudtshoorn

Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 6:34 pm
by Marshall1