Magaliesberg new sport climbing crag feasibility study (Filtered)

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Magaliesberg new sport climbing crag feasibility study (Filtered)

Post by Forket » Sat Nov 07, 2015 8:19 am

With the new influx of climbers into the general climbing community surrounding Gauteng, we are in desperate need of a new sport climbing crag in the surrounding area. Contact me via email ( please if you interested in donating information/bolts/funds for bolts (your name wont ever be mentioned)/ assistance.

I need assistance with the following things if anyone is interested in assisting this venture:
  • I am in need of a digital map with all the kloof names on it, can anyone assist?

    I also require names of klowe not mentioned in the wiki (picture below for extent of the wiki knowledge).

    Can anyone assist with the ownership details of the questions in green?

    Can anyone confirm MCSA ownership of the questions in orange?

    Can anyone confirm that MCSA doesnt own the properties in red?

    My mission is to avoid MCSA properties and develop a new sport climbing crag in the Magaliesberg where the private individual can go on a regular basis (with the possibility of paying for access per visit obviously).
Can any owner's contact details also be sent to my email/ private messages please.

Ebert Nel

DISCLAIMER: Please keep this topic free from hate spam, if you dont know me in real life, dont comment on my attitude or how i conduct business. I also dont read insults longer than one line, so keep it short, if you going to try anyways. The reasoning for this is that in all my years of trolling, only one person actually contacted me privately and that was the only message that actually stuck in mind, the rest is spam/shit slinging and not worth reading past one line.

If you still reading.... This is a legitimate feasibility study and a crag will be developed from this. I'm more interested in harder grades (mid 20s to high 30s). The kids of tomorrow need a new real rock playground that's not 250km away from home. Any other mountain range suggestions/ locations also feasible, please feel free to give as much information available.



Does anyone know anything about/checked out the following places:
  • Cradle, its a huge rock face behind Glenburn Lodge

  • Rooipoort (apparently ca 3 to 5km south of Wilgepoort)

  • Scheepers Kloof (near loskop dam)
@liz thanks we need all the help we can get:D before we/you have to start queuing for your favourite routes

Found someone psyched to finish off development (donating the bolts) of the Potch crag. Maybe happening in Jan.

There is a potential offer for people to go help further develop the Radioactive Crag. I asked the person to post below.


Disclaimer: Please dont post on this post unless you serious about developing a sport climbing crag in the immediate surroundings of Gauteng
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Re: Magaliesberg new sport climbing crag feasibility study (Filtered)

Post by Forket » Sat Nov 07, 2015 8:20 am


2 people confirm that Glenburn Lodge is too chossy for a future AMAZING crag, search continues.

Additionally, the one person noted that east of Wilgepoort is a write-off and to the south Farmers aren't keen on access.

Apologies if you've commented before the post got renewed, but I'll keep repeating the exercise until they critics get bored

@Pigeon aka Dean Robinson, is that Glenburn Lodge?

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Re: Magaliesberg new sport climbing crag feasibility study (Filtered)

Post by Old Smelly » Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:02 am

Interestingly enough I did advise you that Glenburn was not feasible - something I thought would be helpful. Ironically Ebert you then went on to attack me personally on that post. I do know of some good potential sites for sport climbing - however in due respect to your general attitude I would regard it as irresponsible of me to pass such information on to you.

I still recommend looking for new climbing areas instead of trying to leach of existing ones. Good luck :thumright
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

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Re: Magaliesberg new sport climbing crag feasibility study (Filtered)

Post by shorti » Mon Nov 09, 2015 10:29 am

Come chat with me next time you see me at the barn, if you want to.

For now, I can tell you Cedarberkloof is MCSA owned, same as the rest of the Tonquani complex. No bolting, even replacing old bolts you need to get permission from a committee. I helped an old friend to get the bolts on Twilight Floozy replaced. Don't think many people bothered climbing it since then, which is a shame. You should give it a go, if you haven't yet. Same goes for Terminator and Madonna. Might as well use the bolts while they are there.

You can scratch Easter, it's private, but there's nothing to climb.

Cavern is Trident, or at least the part where we climb. while it's not mcsa owned, it is one of the old ones and the good lines have been taken a long time ago.

Strictly speaking Skeerpoort is not part of the main magalies ridge. It is a gap with a dirt road trough a smaller ridge just south of the main ridge (east of Harties, close to Van Galens cheese farm). I think they refer to the part of the escarpment next to Eureka where the vultures nest. You don't want to go there, vulture poop is very unpleasant. As for Eureka, maybe go there and see it for yourself first, before you consider it.

Hamerkop is owned by 50 people, all of them MCSA members. Good luck getting them all to agree on bolts :wink: There are a lot of trad routes there, so not much left. Won't make a good sport crag in any case.

Kranskloof is private, but again, not much left. It's one of the kloofs with the most routes. There is a line or two of bolts, from before the bolt ban. I won't trust them though. Please don't screw it up, we only recently got permission to go there again. We didn't lose it because anyone screwed it up, in case you are wondering.

Your best bet is the escarpment. Problem with it is, it is mostly rubbish, even though you'd think it should be fantastic, being south facing and all that. Also, there's no water and you have to walk a bit.

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Re: Magaliesberg new sport climbing crag feasibility study (Filtered)

Post by Pigeon » Mon Nov 09, 2015 12:38 pm

Yes kloofzicht lodge is behind Glenburn Lodge i think they dropped there boundary fences due to wild life

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