Paarl Rock

[Rockray143]

Looking to climb Paarl Rock during my short visit to Capetown and looking for some advice on the following routes. Any info on these routes will be greatly appreciated (bolts, decent routes ect)
Stairway to heaven
Austrian Culinarium
Sands of Time

[robertbreyer]

There's a complete guide book on Paarl Rock.
A fair number of the routes are also covered in Western Cape Rock.

Available online -
https://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/paa ... ers-guide/
and at our retail shop in Cape Town.
www.cityrock.co.za

I have personally done Sands of Time about half a dozen times.
Definitely a Five Star classic route. Haven't done the others.

Lots of photos on the Gallery here...

- Robert

[ShaolinWood]

Hey, I've only done 2 of those routes so I can comment on them:

Stairway to Heaven: Really fun grade 19 with 6 pitches. The first 2 pitches are the hardest although only pitch 1 is really that tricky. Pitch 2 and pitch 4 are the most fun. You'll experience a crapload of ropedrag on pitch 5 haha. But yea this route is great. The path to the start is very vague but it's hard to miss it. The Western Cape Rock book also has great photos showing you where it goes.

Sands of Time: Great classic route. Pitch 1 sucks but pitch 2 is one of the finest pitches you'll experience. Not that hard but feels like a gym route. Perfect placement of holds. The last pitch is classic Paarl slab action. Good luck with that

If you're willing to up the grade a LITTLE bit I can seriously suggest Jovian Thunderbolts and Little Dutchboy. Although Little dutchboy is only 2 pitches of climbing... but Jovian is fantastic. It's a 21

Also Via Michaela that's also a 19 is lots of fun. It's got a nice variety of climbing styles. You start with a chimney and then also has a nice surpise boulder problem on pitch 3.

Cool but Paarl has lots to offer. Oh yes and lastly if you have a few trad pieces check out Splinter of the Mind's eye!! Amazing route

[ShaolinWood]

Sorry didn't mention anything about the bolts etc.

So for Stairway and Sands you'll experience the usual Paarl run-out scary factor but it's all super safe. The rock is clean and from what I can remember all the bolts was good quality. Chains at all the stances and they're all easy to find.

I think they added in an extra bolt on Pitch 1 for Sands. It used to be a 15m runout to the chains that always freaks you out a bit.

For Sands of time; on pitch 3, make sure you traverse all the way to the obvious stance. There's a few lines that goes up, crossing that pitch and you'll get confused with bolts and chains along the route. But traverse until you see an obvious stance, THEN go up on Pitch 4.

[hendriks]

I can second the comment above on Jovian Thunderbolt, it is a stunning route, super fun climbing.

[Stu]

Sorry didn't mention anything about the bolts etc.

So for Stairway and Sands you'll experience the usual Paarl run-out scary factor but it's all super safe. The rock is clean and from what I can remember all the bolts was good quality. Chains at all the stances and they're all easy to find.

I think they added in an extra bolt on Pitch 1 for Sands. It used to be a 15m runout to the chains that always freaks you out a bit.

For Sands of time; on pitch 3, make sure you traverse all the way to the obvious stance. There's a few lines that goes up, crossing that pitch and you'll get confused with bolts and chains along the route. But traverse until you see an obvious stance, THEN go up on Pitch 4.

If someone has added a bolt on the first pitch I will be just a little pissed. That run-out is well in line with the rest of the route, and it's like a grade 10 or something ridiculous. If true - stop fcking with other people's routes. Oh, I bolted the route.

[raphaeltube]

No extra bolt that I saw.
-was there a month ago.

[Josh78]

Austrian Culinarium is great if you like a bit of chimney climbing! First pitch is a chimney. Be prepared to top out of the first pitch and find no bolt in sight (however the climbing / walking is not hard here. The stance is about 10-15m after you exit the chimney on a small little ledge), can be a little freaky / unexpected, but worth it.

The rest of the route is nicely bolted and safe in my opinion. Bring a guide book so you don't meander off to the right onto another route at the start of pitch 4 (19).

See pic attached of pitch 1 (Photo by: Megan Beaumont)

I recommend this route

[ShaolinWood]

Sorry didn't mention anything about the bolts etc.

So for Stairway and Sands you'll experience the usual Paarl run-out scary factor but it's all super safe. The rock is clean and from what I can remember all the bolts was good quality. Chains at all the stances and they're all easy to find.

I think they added in an extra bolt on Pitch 1 for Sands. It used to be a 15m runout to the chains that always freaks you out a bit.

For Sands of time; on pitch 3, make sure you traverse all the way to the obvious stance. There's a few lines that goes up, crossing that pitch and you'll get confused with bolts and chains along the route. But traverse until you see an obvious stance, THEN go up on Pitch 4.

If someone has added a bolt on the first pitch I will be just a little pissed. That run-out is well in line with the rest of the route, and it's like a grade 10 or something ridiculous. If true - stop fcking with other people's routes. Oh, I bolted the route.

Hey Stu, sorry my bad then. I was up on Jovian and I looked down and thought I saw a new bolt. Was surprised myself but guess I was mistaken.

[Stu]

Sorry didn't mention anything about the bolts etc.

So for Stairway and Sands you'll experience the usual Paarl run-out scary factor but it's all super safe. The rock is clean and from what I can remember all the bolts was good quality. Chains at all the stances and they're all easy to find.

I think they added in an extra bolt on Pitch 1 for Sands. It used to be a 15m runout to the chains that always freaks you out a bit.

For Sands of time; on pitch 3, make sure you traverse all the way to the obvious stance. There's a few lines that goes up, crossing that pitch and you'll get confused with bolts and chains along the route. But traverse until you see an obvious stance, THEN go up on Pitch 4.

If someone has added a bolt on the first pitch I will be just a little pissed. That run-out is well in line with the rest of the route, and it's like a grade 10 or something ridiculous. If true - stop fcking with other people's routes. Oh, I bolted the route.

Hey Stu, sorry my bad then. I was up on Jovian and I looked down and thought I saw a new bolt. Was surprised myself but guess I was mistaken.

Oh hey, no harm no foul.
Was the run-out really 15m The thing is I could've bolted that route like other crags say at Silvermine but then it would be a walk-up. This way you have to think a little while climbing, personally I think it adds to the climb.

Having said that I did add some extra bolts onto Jovian as there were some nasty little run-outs on that one and it is such a good route that I didn't want it to get a reputation and see no traffic. It was bolted in the same fashion as Sands but it just felt more dodgy if you were new to the route.

Every route is different I guess.

[ShaolinWood]

haha I actually don't know how long that runout is. I've done it 3 times now and I think that first time just sticks: That awkward pause, look around then shouting down "I can't see any bolts... guess we just go up" haha. Fun times. But yea it's pretty much a walk up.

Jovian is such a great route! Thanks for bolting that one. That first pitch!