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Easy trad route on Cogmans Buttress

Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:29 pm
by Ringalatus
Some time back Nix and I went to try and find the trad routes on Cogmans Buttress. Having searched on 2 occasions with no luck we decided to open a new easy route.
It starts about 30 metres to the left of The Rave and is marked with cairn and "Y" shaped stick. Two pitches of 11 or 12 together making 40 metres to a white cheese wedge shaped block standing on its base. From there 35 metres (grade 12) up to the base of a brown right sloping ramp. Climb the ramp (Grade 16) and at the top traverse left on rounded grips and then up to the Rave cave and chains ( 20 metres). Scramble right for 15 metres the past the chimney crack to a white face. Climb the crack in the middle of the face to a ledge to left of the phallic pillar below a large green tree ( 45 metres Grade 14 ). Climb the red face right of the gully, and the traverse left into the gully and stance on a prominent ledge below a free standing gendarme (30 metres, grade 13). Climb the gully for a short distance then move right onto a ramp. Climb the ramp. At the top move left to the left hand corner, climb the corner on small grips and no feet on the yellow lichen to the edge above the climb easily to the wide ledge above ( 30 metres Grade 17 ). Climb the Right hand crack to the ledge above and climb easily to the top (10 metres, Grade 15). Scramble to the top and walk off or abseil straight down on 60 metre ropes, 5 or 6 abseils. You'll see our red and black tat. We've now climbed this route 3X and think it might interest "oldies" like us. We named it "Super Corega"