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El Newno

Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 2:18 pm
by GingerNinja
Hey all

I spent most of Easter Weekend falling off of the crux of El Nino at Oudtshoorn. Then late on Sunday afternoon I stuck the crux moves, had a tea break at the kneebar and pranced up the top half to where the chains used to be. But the chains aren't there anymore, and while I had plenty of gas to clip, I didn't have enough to do the hard move going past where the chains used to be. I came down feeling rather cheated, my only consolation being that I could listen to "In the End" at top volume because there were no other groups at the crag.

Fortunately for me I managed to huff and puff my way past the two new bolts and up to the new location of the chains the next day.

Anyway, ramblings aside, this all raised an interesting question. What are the ethics of modifying sport routes, especially long after they have been bolted? Is El Nino still the same route? Or did I get the FA of El Newno? (Didn't look like the new bit had seen much traffic but I could be wrong).

Whatever the ethics are I think it was worth making the exception for El Nino. It's now a much more satisfying route if you manage to not dork the top crux, and I think it's pretty solid at the grade now.

Re: El Newno

Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 9:22 pm
by Forket
Hearsay.... is it true that the chains of Hard Play got lowered so that some people could send?

Ebert Nel

Re: El Newno

Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 5:09 pm
by oan
Yeah, that is a bit controversial! :shock: Especially because the chains weren't moved by like half a meter for safety purposes. The route is now about 33% longer, has a lot more bolts and has a new crux, definitely not the same route. It therefore logically follows that it is a new route (whether you see it as an extension or not is another question). There was no chalk on the top bit that I could see, especially on the new crux bit. If no one claims to have the FA, I reckon you can claim the FA of El Newno because El Nino is no more (#RIP).

Re: El Newno

Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 11:48 am
by Michael98
It was rebolted mid december by Jason. Not sure if his crew opened the line but they were certainly trying it.
"IF" el nino is no more, then I believe Liam Foxcroft was the last ascent. haha