Training Program For Beginners??

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Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2020 4:53 am
Real Name: Wian van Zyl

Training Program For Beginners??

Post by SafariWian » Tue Jan 14, 2020 9:40 pm

Hi all, I've been wondering if anyone can maybe help me out?

I started climbing about 2 weeks ago and have a membership at CityROCK Cape Town, but I live in Somerset West. Unfortunately I can only get to the gym once, maybe twice a week, and due to work I face the same challenges getting to the crags!

Does anyone maybe have a training program I can follow (or some suggestions) for when I can't actually climb, that will strengthen the right muscles in the right way to better my climbing in the long run.

Any help would be very much appreciated!

Happy Climbing!

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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 8:06 am
Real Name: Ryan Peel

Re: Training Program For Beginners??

Post by RyanKarate » Wed Jan 15, 2020 7:10 am

A hang board might be a good choice for you. Just go easy for a bit longer than you think to give your tendons and ligaments time to strengthen.

Have a look at the metolius ones. They have a nice training program/work out on their website. ... lator.html

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Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 8:47 am

Re: Training Program For Beginners??

Post by BruceDaniel » Wed Jan 15, 2020 8:21 am

Seems like you are onto the fact that your muscles will strengthen a lot faster than your tendons.
For this reason, be wary of a fingerboard (or snatchy, crimpy boulder problems) at this stage. Climb high volume indoors or outdoors as much as possible, if you still have to feed the rat, throw in one or 2 days of general high-intensity strength training (weights) mixed in with pullups, TRX, core, and maybe limited low-intensity fingerboard if you really are not getting some climbing in each week. Do this for 8 weeks.
Check out Steve Bechtel's website (climb strong), Eric Horst (training for climbing) and join the lattice training Facebook group and post questions there.

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Real Name: Wesley Williams

Re: Training Program For Beginners??

Post by wesleywt » Wed Jan 15, 2020 1:18 pm

Get yourself a Beastmaker hangboard (wooden hangboards are more gentle on the skin) with a pulley system to subtract weight and a weight belt or old harness to add weight. Use kettlebells as the weights. Don't worry about hurting your fingers, bouldering is more injury-inducing than hangboarding because you are more in control on a hangboard. Even though hurting tendons on a hangboard is now considered old school thought, be sure to progressively overload your system by doing something just a little too hard. This can be determined by logging the weight you adding ( don't forget to include your own body weight).

Do repeaters as these will target both endurance and finger strength in one go, then move onto max-hangs to specifically target finger strength. The CRIMPD app has several hangboard protocols that you can try.

However, this will only make you a good hangboarder, it will not teach you any climbing technique or skill. This comes from hours of actual rock climbing.

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Re: Training Program For Beginners??

Post by SafariWian » Thu Jan 16, 2020 6:49 pm

Thanks to all!

I really appreciate the help and guidance!

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Real Name: Cormac Tooze
Location: Cape Town

Re: Training Program For Beginners??

Post by NatureBoi » Fri Jan 17, 2020 10:11 am

Hmm, you're a beginner prob not best to fingerboard just yet. Go online see what the professional climbing trainers say about this.

There are a few people out that way with bouldering walls at their homes, seek them out. DM me, I can give you a #

General conditioning is always beneficial for climbing and general healthy lifestyle.
Do some split squats, pistol squats, single-leg deadlifts- leg strength is underrated for climbing, as well as dumbbell bench press & resistance based rowing style exercise.
Do some research on transverse abdominis (TVA) for your core.
Mobility work also useful.
Practise makes permanent so be vigilant with form.
Good luck,

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Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2020 4:53 am
Real Name: Wian van Zyl

Re: Training Program For Beginners??

Post by SafariWian » Fri Jan 17, 2020 3:28 pm

Hey Cormac,

Thanks for the awesome advice! I appreciate it.

I’m going to make sure I get the right workouts in and that I do them proper. I was thinking that I first want to get climbing fit in a basic way before I start working out with a hang board! So a lot of high wall climbing and getting to the crags when I can!

The workout advice makes sense for those days that I don’t get to climb, thanks! :thumright

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Real Name: Graeme B
Location: KZN

Re: Training Program For Beginners??

Post by grae22 » Fri Jan 17, 2020 4:45 pm

Training for the New Alpinism by Steve House & Scott Johnston is full of great, all-round info - even if you're not aiming for big alpine routes.

I find running really helpful for building base fitness, endurance, leg strength and staying lean - you don't have to run yourself to death either, just a few long-ish (hour or so) runs a week. Keep your heart-rate down - nice trick (mentioned in above book) is to keep a pace where you can comfortably breathe through your nose.

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