Emergency ascend setup: Two tiblocs on dual rope

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FastestHamster
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Emergency ascend setup: Two tiblocs on dual rope

Post by FastestHamster »

In an effort to be a little more prepared on my trad missions, I'd like to add some rescue gear to my setup.

I'm struggling to find info on using two tiblocs, except for one posting which said "Two tiblocs will work on a William carabiner. And of course, a knot of any kind will grasp two strands, but not the fastest or smoothest."

So it seems like it's possible, and people *do* it. Just curious if people have tried this. Another thing to consider is that the old tibloc is supposed to be used with oval biner, and two won't fit on a single oval (hence the suggestion for a William carabiner).
tibloc_dual.jpeg
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justin
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Re: Emergency ascend setup: Two tiblocs on dual rope

Post by justin »

Tibloc's aside, you are better off ascending one rope whilst your belayer takes in on the other line for safety purposes.

On the double Tibloc, why would you do this? You need one Tibloc to manage your body weight and the other for standing up on.
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FastestHamster
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Re: Emergency ascend setup: Two tiblocs on dual rope

Post by FastestHamster »

Perhaps I'm not thinking things through clearly, but I will be setting up a test on a tree in the garden this weekend to practice. If you have abbed off two ropes and find yourself needing to ascend for some reason I thought that two tiblocs would be needed (one on each strand) otherwise you risk rope slipping. Was then going to use petzl shunt for the foot.

So this is ascending while on double rope rappel.
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AllisterFenton
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Re: Emergency ascend setup: Two tiblocs on dual rope

Post by AllisterFenton »

If you have a guide mode device (reverso, pivot, atc guide etc) you can use your device for ascending with the shunt.

While abbing:
Go hands free with your prusik, install the shunt above your belay device and clip in to it, add a prusik or back up knot if you're that way inclined. Unclip your belay device from your belay loop (leaving everything connected as is), clip a biner into the guide mode hole and into your belay loop and you've got a progress capture. Sling on the shunt for a foot loop, stand up and unclip the shunt from your harness. You're good to go.

Check out https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/lose-t ... end-a-rope for ideas.

At least you can use the tiblocs as keyrings or something :hapban
RyanKarate
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Re: Emergency ascend setup: Two tiblocs on dual rope

Post by RyanKarate »

Honestly give this prusik version a try. It’s super quick to tie, grabs really well and unlocks easily and quickly if you “push open” the lower bight with your thumb as you start to slide it up.

Test if 2 wraps hold. Otherwise 3 wraps is bombproof.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B_Rb6_pD-Ps ... hpt9a89l7r

It’s an upside down Klemheist. Best I can find on google is it’s called the “Hedden”.
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FastestHamster
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Re: Emergency ascend setup: Two tiblocs on dual rope

Post by FastestHamster »

Thanks all, appreciate the comments and links, so I'm going to do some tests soon and will post pictures (or written updates).

I'm keen to see if there is any benefit at all since most people's reaction to this is "why", but I think it may be quicker. Otherwise I'll have some nice keychains.

It'll be a test between:
  • Black diamond ATC guide + shunt
  • The tiblocs + shunt
  • Normal prusiks
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raphaeltube
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Re: Emergency ascend setup: Two tiblocs on dual rope

Post by raphaeltube »

I like the idea, I think it might work well.

Something to think about when using a Shunt, especially with Tiblocs (which can slip, well 1 can anyway):
The Shunt should be on top.
Anything slipping or sliding down onto the body of the Shunt can de-activate/release it like a Prusik.

-R
RyanKarate
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Re: Emergency ascend setup: Two tiblocs on dual rope

Post by RyanKarate »

Throw in this option as well

It'll be a test between:
- Black diamond ATC guide + shunt
- The tiblocs + shunt
- Normal prusiks
- BD ATC Guide + 1 long prusik.
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