The problem with IFSC type climbing comps (the type where there is a judge who decides if you used a hold or not) is that is isn't how climbers climb. No one ever says how they got to the 16th hold of their project, climbers only get proud when they send the whole route cleanly. And so I am launching Lead League to be more of a "climbers comp".
The rules are simple: 6 routes of varying difficulty, more points for sending the route in the first 3 goes, then the rest score all the same. The routes stay up for 2 weeks, allowing climbers to work them and still score of those attempts. The only little rule is no working the route after falling on the first 2 attempts- well you can, but forgo claiming a 2nd/3rd attempt ascent.
Both City Rock and Hang Time are hosting, and there will be a new set of routes available every Wednesday alternating between the two gyms. The gyms have both been highly accommodating and have agreed to allow free access to competitors for the opening Wednesdays from 4pm until the gym closes. This means that the poor student can pay R200 and get access to a gym once a week for 12 weeks. The majority of the entrance fee will go to prizes, so the more people that enter the better. Obviously being a member of a gym allows you to work the routes at your leisure.
Scoring App
The problem with comps is pens and paper, and so we are creating an app that will allow contestants to log their attempts as they go, and the leader board will tell you live how you are going. This is the bit I'm most excited about, as we have designed the app to allow other comp types to use it. I hope we will see Boulder League, Nationals etc switching to the app both for the convenience of it, as well as allowing bystanders to watch the scoreboard on the app.
What do you all think?
New Type of Lead Competition
- lelikegogga
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Re: New Type of Lead Competition
This sounds really cool!!



Re: New Type of Lead Competition
I think so 
The first round Starts on 1 April at Hang Time, then City Rock's first round is on the 8th.

The first round Starts on 1 April at Hang Time, then City Rock's first round is on the 8th.
Sandbagging is a dirty game
Re: New Type of Lead Competition
This sounds like a good idea. Well done for organising, Warren.
Can you post the poster/advert for the comp here (on the climbza forum/website)? Where/how do we sign up?
Can you post the poster/advert for the comp here (on the climbza forum/website)? Where/how do we sign up?
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Re: New Type of Lead Competition
Yay fpr more comps! It will be an interesting test of a different way of running things. Looking forward to it.
Re: New Type of Lead Competition
because work has gotten in the way of us finalizing the web site etc, I will be physically collecting money for entries. If you'd like we can do it online?
The first event is at Hang Time on 1 April, and I have put poster up with dates at City Rock, HAng Time, MCSA bouldering wall and UCT. Justin, can I email you the poster?
The first event is at Hang Time on 1 April, and I have put poster up with dates at City Rock, HAng Time, MCSA bouldering wall and UCT. Justin, can I email you the poster?
Sandbagging is a dirty game
Re: New Type of Lead Competition
Would be great if you could get Cape Edge adventure involved too, for us Stellenbosch folk.
Re: New Type of Lead Competition
Let me get the app up and running, and solve any problems with the format I can't think of, but yes, that is the plan
Sandbagging is a dirty game
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Re: New Type of Lead Competition
For those who prefer plastic for the League fee (R200) on Wednesday, we're more than happy to swipe cards at our front desk, and we'll just recon with Warren afterwards 
