The most important Principles

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Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:03 am
Real Name: Marc Klein

The most important Principles

Post by Rokon »

Hi Guys,

I've spend quite a lot of time on the forum trying to read up on the key things one needs to learn and be conscious of when climbing in terms of techinque.

So far I've only really learnt that your legs need to do the lifting if possible, and that balance is key.

But there must be sooooo much more to it.

Are there other simple techinques and concepts that are vital besides safety?

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Re: The most important Principles

Post by shorti »

Not in any particular order (apart from the order they come to mind):
Look for ways to rest. Kneebars, fist jams, elbow bars, chin hooks (I've used this once when I couldn't let go with either hand without doing a barndoor). A well known veteran once used a face jam, he shoved his head in a crack and bulged his cheeks as hard as he could, so he could let go with his hands :lol:

Try to climb efficiently. Little things like placing your feet accurately, finding less strenuous ways to get up a problem.

Hang with straight arms. Hang on one arm while shaking out the other (apparently lifting it above your head and shaking/waving works - it looks ridiculous though).

Loose weight. I thought it was bollocks, but after gaining a few, I suck even more than I used to.

Your fingers will get stronger over time, don't push them too hard in the beginning. Try to concentrate on fitness and technique, they go well together in any case. When you train, try to climb laps on long routes with lots of jugs, but try to get up it as efficiently as possible. You will later notice that you can hold smaller and less straight forward grips with little effort. You will learn how to not over grip. Basically get as much mileage as you can on as many different styles as you can.

For crack climbing you need to ask someone (preferably as many someones as possible) to show you how to do hand jams, fist jams, finger jams, finger cams, finger stacks, finger locks and what to do with your feet. It's a bit hard to explain without showing.

Watch other people do it and try to figure out what they are doing.

Ask people to give you pointers. Most of the time you won't even have to ask, lots of climbers tend to tell you voluntarily, you just need to listen.

Different angles / rock texture / grip shape and size needs different technique. Try to do them all as much as you can.

Start slowly, especially if you are climbing somewhere / some style you haven't before or not recently and work your way up.

Warm up.

Drink more water.

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Re: The most important Principles

Post by cumulous »

Use Sunscreen.
Andy Davies
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by Andy Davies »

I think it was Tony Yaniro who said a good tan was essential for strength (ever seen a strong pale guy?). So use a low SF santan lotion. :jocolor:
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by jgb »

If you don't let go, you won't fall.
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by Rokon »

Got the sunscreen and not letting go part so far :)
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by DAcaveman »

I've always believed that climbing hard(whatever that might be for you) is physical chess. And there are a few principals you must use to gain a successful redpoint of any route. Principles like 'use your legs rather than arms to gain height' means something different to every route, changes between every position during the climb. I guess what I'm trying to say is: fall in love with every move in the route u're climbing, learn its secret of how to transfer your weight in every move, then you'll send it. Intense focus for every move will help. Much like golf, the more you focus, the better you'll hit the ball...
imho a pro climber is the one who can do the basic rules even when climbing a roof with tiny holds. Do the basics in every situation, fight your tendency to use the wrong technique as much as you can, and practice practice practice. Your body needs to learn balance in many many climbing situations before you can do it with ease as you see the top guys do. That means that one can train strength in a gym, but even if you can benchpress 150kgs, it won't help you much when climbing. The only training for climbing is ... climbing! (cliche, but true).
A few key principles:
1) Get 70% of your weight onto your feet( in other words, try to destroy your shoes :twisted: )
b) How to do that: straighten your arms and bend your knees when climbing(much like an Egyptian...u get my drift).
3) Get your hips as close to the wall as possible - get yer crotch over yer feet.
4) Have 3 points of contact on the wall as far as you can - only move one foot or hand at a time.
e) Opposites work together: when your right hand has a good grip, your left foot must also be secure. This enables your left hand or right foot to be the better choice to move to the next hold. If say your right foot and hand is secure, and you try and move your left hand or foot, you get out of balance(called a barndoor effect sometimes). If you have two good grips below one another, is better to grip them with opposing limbs eg: left hand right foot etc.

The number of possibilities this translates to is legion, depending or every move in every climb in the world. And thats why I love climbing. Anyone can do good here, its just up to training. Most ppl can run the Comrades, its just up to training.

Shees, now I have to go lie down...

Oja, and use sunscreen :thumright
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by Marshall1 »

Remember; it's only climbing; there is no reason; there is no point.
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by fivesix »

In all seriousness this book will help you greatly:
the self coached climber
you can find it on amazon it's the only book I frequent regularly to help coach kids ( and myself)
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by danglingdingle »

That ondra guy is pretty pasty, but maybe he's the exception to the rule. :lol:
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by Sleap »

The best climber in the world is the one who's having the most fun.
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by aviendha »

I agree with Sleap..

1. Have fun (this means different things for different people - some are really serious when having fun...others well... :) )

2. The rest comes along as you climb and watch others and lie in bed at night thinking how you gonna stick that move... but good footwork can get you places

3. Reading up can help too
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by ivan »

Watch as many climbing movies as possible!, take notes, and practise your climbing grant! (the pros do it so it must work for something) :thumleft:
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by alexdesas »

gym gym gym
pull ups to death until you die ----- 7 days a week at least 50 - 70 reps per day.
then the occasional visit to your nearest climbing GYM,
then get some equipment,
then hook up with a more experienced climbing partner type person

DONE then everything else will come naturally.......

1st climb n climb n climb then what you don't understand look it up. Google know everything, I PROMISE!!!!

-------------HAVE AWESOME FUN AND TRY NOT DIE------------------------
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by PierreAckermann »

You sound enthusiastic which should lead to lots of climbing preferably on different rock with people who climb harder than you, which should get you there...there being where Mr Marshal hit the nail

If that fails revert back to golf or paintball
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by brianweaver »

Jerry Moffat, Dave MacCleod, Ben Moon, Steve McClure are all tan inhibited. But I guess they're all British. Jerry remarks in his autobiography that after 6 weeks of climbing in France Ben looked to have developed a tan; then he took a shower and was still white as a sheet!!!! ROFLMAO
I hate this real world place... I'd be more than happy to live out there rather...
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Re: The most important Principles

Post by Wes »

Andy Davies wrote:I think it was Tony Yaniro who said a good tan was essential for strength (ever seen a strong pale guy?). So use a low SF santan lotion. :jocolor:
I know this post is a couple of years old but it seems Adam Ondra proved Tony wrong. ;)

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