Sidewinder, Rocklands Glue-in Anchor Spinning

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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wesleywt
Posts: 90
Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2010 4:04 pm
Real Name: Wesley Williams

Sidewinder, Rocklands Glue-in Anchor Spinning

Post by wesleywt »

Hi.

I was on Sidewinder, the 26 in the corner of the Cattle Rustler sector and noticed one of the top anchors was spinning. The route has old bolts but the anchors are brand new glue-ins. Maybe the cement didn't set correctly? Just wondering if the re-bolter is around since it seems brand new.
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Forket
Posts: 785
Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2009 7:34 pm
Real Name: Everyday Troll

Re: Sidewinder, Rocklands Glue-in Anchor Spinning

Post by Forket »

If a bolt is not set into the rock, as per common practice across the globe, the lateral forces causes torque that directly acts on the epoxy, instead of a "set-in" bolt that will disperse these forces into the rock and SS316/titanium, thus the epoxy is the weakest component in the system and could fail to keep the bolt in place, as you've observed and lived to tell the tale. Many glue-in bolts in the western cape have not been set into the rock and therefore pose a risk, especially at more overhanging crags.

Ebert Nel
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stingrei
Posts: 39
Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 11:11 pm

Re: Sidewinder, Rocklands Glue-in Anchor Spinning

Post by stingrei »

I have asked about and still busy. Wasn’t rebolted by original Bolter nor the ARF teams. Will keep at it and try sort out
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