New beginners routes at The Crèche, Tranquilitas, Waterval Boven

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2016 4:45 pm
Real Name: Ruth Behr

New beginners routes at The Crèche, Tranquilitas, Waterval Boven

Post by TranquilitasFarm » Wed Feb 08, 2017 4:08 pm

Clive Curson has been very busy at Tranquilitas the last few weeks. He has been bolting some easy routes for beginners and lead beginners.
Here follows Clive's description of the crag, with a list of the over 30 routes now at the Crèche.

The Crèche, Tranquilitas Farm, Waterval Boven
Clive Curson

The Crèche is a crag for someone new to "outside" climbing, probably more so than Flying is Fun. Yet there are a few routes particularly in the descent gully and just to its west, which would keep more experienced climbers engaged. So it would be an ideal cliff for climbers to take their youngsters or inexperienced friends to start climbing. You will find the bolt spacing here is generally close, similar to Flying Is Fun or Struben's Valley. An attempt has been made to bolt appropriate to the grade, so that someone new to the grade, or with only gym experience, or who may be short and/or young, can lead climb feeling fairly comfortable here, especially on the easier routes. Take 2 or 3 spare draws as nearby bolts may sometimes be clipped to increase comfort, but watch rope drag.

It is situated at the east end of the Tranquilitas crag, close to the boundary fence with the neighbouring farm. The safest access for larger groups and dogs is to climb down the other (west) end of Tranquilitas Crag and walk east along the base, somewhat up and down till you find very slabby rock, perhaps 400m to the East. Alternatively walk more easily along the top of the cliff until a point 40m from the boundary fence. Turn left off the cycle track and walk 30m down to the cliff edge.

There are 2 sets of abseil chains. The western pair is obviously easier to use. There is a steep gully about 30m West of this point. This is now easier to down climb with a knotted rope in place. The bottom 3m has metal rungs and U-bolts in place to facilitate down climbing. It may be better for inexperienced climbers to negotiate this gully for the first time climbing up from the base.

The first 8 or 9 climbs described below (from L to R) all start on the left or east of the slabby area at a large corner with a sheer wall to the left. Arielle is marked on the rock.

DANGEROUS 15 0* (7D,N)
The extension of M(ICHAEL) J(ACKSON). In its current state, loose and unpleasant. BEWARE! Don’t do it.
FA: C Curson 12.2016

M J 11 *** (8D)
Shares the 1st 2 or 3 bolts with ARIELLE. Climb up left on the R hand edge of the nice-looking smooth face to anchors on the steeper left wall at 3/4 height, about 10m R of HUFFING WARTHOG.
FA: C Curson, J Bollerup 12.2016

ARIELLE 7 *** (7D)
The major corner on the left of the Crèche. Opened by Arielle on her 9th birthday. Climb up to the anchors under the roof.
FA: A Behr 12.2016

DOT 8 *** (6D)
TALIA LH Variant. Starting at ARIELLE in the major corner, climb diagonally R to the 2nd bolt on TALIA & up to the anchors under the roof 3m R of the major corner.
FA: J Bollerup C Curson 12.2016

LEO 8 ** (7D)
EXODUS LHV, starting up Arielle and heading diagonally right, crosses TALIA & joining EXODUS on the long ledge. Finish up just left of the fig tree.

BONGO 10 *** (12D)
A long traverse and a quick way to climb out after the day's climbing. Starting at ARIELLE in the major corner, climb up to the ledge at EXODUS' 3rd bolt. Traverse R then diagonally R over a small fig to exit above MEL. Belay at the chains above the huge sloping block, or lower back to the ground. Someone will probably have to follow the climb due to the difficulty of cleaning on rappel FA: Various (solo) early 21st century

MAX 4 *** (11D)
Starting at ARIELLE go diagonally right. Continue along the ledge around the (2nd) small fig tree, cross the major crack line to a 3 bolt anchor. Clip them and lower to the ground for your first lead. The second can clean the draws and rap off the anchors. Alternatively reverse the traverse leftwards, removing draws from the bolts as you go, then carefully down climb to the ground in the corner.

MAXIMILLIAN 12 **** (21B)
The extension of MAX, traversing the whole slab, continuing along 1000000 and finishing at the top of the arête at KAJ's anchors. Very cruisy so you can stop many times to admire the view onto the great red walls under the farmhouse. Can be climbed as 1 pitch (in this case some long draws may be useful) or broken into 2 pitches at the 3 bolt anchor of MAX.
FA: C Curson, G Janse van Rensberg 22.1.2017

TALIA 13 ** (7D)
Start 3m R of the major corner at a boulder problem start. Straight up to the anchors shared with DOT.
FA: T Behr 12.2016

EXODUS 13 ** (7D)
Starting 1m R of TALIAs 1st bolt, climb up and R passing just L of a fig tree to anchors under the roof 6m from the major corner. There is a climb at Arapiles (AUST) with the same name. Has a grade of 6 and is about as hard.
FA: C Curson J Bollerup 12.2016

EX 10 *** (7D)
Using R O T A s 1st 2 brackets, climb up and continue left of the fig tree to the EXODUS anchors.
FA: C Curson 12.2016

Start about 8-9m R of the major corner to the left of a tree. Climb through the steepish start at a short discontinuous crack, then somewhat R up to chains under the roof R of a fig tree.
FA: M Janse van Rensburg

The extension of BOB. Start 2-3m R of RETURN OF THE AVATAR (just R of the tree) and up to the roof. Climb the arête up to chains below a shrubby tree on the top.

BOB 9 *** (7D)
A more even-paced climb. Up SPIDERTRIX 4/5B to a double bolt anchor at roof level, or trend left to the chains on R O T A.

MILOU 9 *** (8D)
Start 2m L of the tree and crack (CROUCHING TIGER). Ascend the slab up to chains about 1m R of where the long roof ends.

CROUCHING TIGER 11 *** (10/13D)
Starting on top of block R of tree, climb crack (past 3 bolt anchor - MAX) to 1st set of chains, or continue thru to the chains above the sloping block passing 3 more U-bolts

1000000 12 **** (12D)
Starts at MAX's finishing anchors. Can be accessed in several ways e.g. up CROUCHING TIGER. From 3 rd U-bolt anchor, move R then slightly down & cross left. Traverse R till black water streak on ROSY/MORT. Climb diagonally up into the small hole/recess,
then continue diagonally R to the top of the arête at KAJs anchors. The view and situation on the face here would merit several stars even with poor climbing.

MEL 11 *** (9/11D)
Climb a couple of meters R of the crack (CROUCHING TIGER) to where the angle eases. Pass over a few ledges to chains near the top,
or on up past 3 more U bolts and the huge sloping block to more chains.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensberg

ALS 9 *** (11D) Jette’s home island in southern Denmark. Starting L of a small fig tree (just R of MEL), follow U-bolts up diagonally R, then up to anchors.
FA: J Bollerup 12.2016

JANE 10 *** (11D)
Starting up ALS first 3 bolts, move diagonally R to the big crack/cleft above the tree. Up the LHS of the cleft (following ME TARZAN YOU JANE) to chains
FA: C Curson J Bollerup 1.1.2017

GUS 8 **** (9/10D)
Starting as for 2 bolts of ALS, up another move as for JANE, then traverse behind the large tree and across the square edge. Step up R onto the slab, similar to KAJ, and traverse R to the 3 U-bolt anchor at a ledge close to the arête, only 1.5m above a big roof. From here one may rappel/lower off, or bring up a 2nd then do any of the 4 right hand routes on this slabby perched face. FA: Gustav and Clive 1.2017

A cruxy start. Way easier to start up ALS. L arête of large crack, starting at a big tree 5m left of MEL
FA: Agnes Fiamma, Gustav Janse van Rensberg

The next 5 routes (JACKIE, ROSY, MORT, MOOAH & KAJ) can all use 1 of 2 starts. As for JACKIE, or ROSY (Alternate Start), passing the square ledge on top of the block forming the little cave. Starting inside the cave is perhaps more fun. Outside start may have less rope drag, especially on the right hand routes.

JACKIE (Chan) 14 *** (9/10D)
Starting in the cave, stem up and out onto the square ledge. Climb up following the bolt brackets/hangers, then a bit L.
Finishes up the R arête of the cleft to chain anchors.

ROSY 12/13 **** (11D)
Starts up the first 3 brackets of JEAN out of the alcove onto the square ledge. Diagonally R following U bolts up the smooth slab L of the water streak. Using the whole feature in the water streak for a move is a bit easier.
FA: C Curson J Bollerup 12.2016

ROSY (Alt start) 12/13 **** (12D)
There is another start to ROSY just outside the cave, to the left of a tree. Joins ROSY at the square ledge at 4m. It can, of course be used as an alternative to any climb between JACKIE and KAJ, esp. if there are others in the cave. Has the same

U-bolts as ROSY. The 3rd U-bolt (just above the roof) may be better than the neighbouring hanger bolt as it could lessen rope drag across a sharp edge in the roof
FA: C Curson 1.2017

MORT (al comeback) 12 **** (10D)
Starting up JACKIE/ROSY out of the cave, go diagonally R, and then follow P bolts up crossing the black water streak.
FA: G Janse van Rensburg (trad) BB: C Curson J Bollerup

MOAAH 11 **** (11D)
Mummy in southern Danish dialect. Start out of cave, then go diagonally R crossing the black water streak following U bolts up the steeper slab to anchors. It is possible to lower back to the small ledge on the R (near arête) and do all the routes on this beautiful hanging face from a 3bolt belay.
FA: J Bollerup C Curson 3.1.2017

KAJ 13 **** (12D or 7D from ledge)
Pronounced as in eye, high or sky. Not only Danes have strange pronunciation. 1 of the sweetest 8m climbs you will ever do.
Can be climbed from the ground starting as for JACKIE/ROSY or lower down from MORT or ROSY to perched ledge above trees on the arête at a 3bolt anchor. Climb the exposed arête to anchor.
FA: J Bollerup C Curson 3.1.2017

A few meters R of the cave (and before CIF) there is a gully, which can be scrambled via a small tree on the left or metal steps with knotted ropes. The next 4 climbs start just left of the U-bolt ladder using the obvious footholds.

BOY 19 **** (8/9D)
Up using the in cut footholds and perhaps a rung for protection only to the first small U-bolt, to an obvious foot rail at 3m. L along this to the arête (several unobvious under clings). Up the arête to a ledge shared with KAJ. Climb the arête as for KAJ. Extend draws to reduce rope drag. Use the anchors just R of the arête. Easier if you are tall.
FA: C Curson, Barry Brits 24.1.17

KAJBOY 22 **** (8/9D)
Start left of the bolt ladder to the foot rail. Continue up the easy notched arête-let in face. It gets thinner at the top, going up slightly left to a better hold. Could be harder for short climbers.
FA: C Curson, Barry Brits 24.1.2017

KAT **** 23 (8/9D)
As for KAJBOY to 5th bolt. Continue up straight or slightly R, via a 2cm foothold and R slanting crimp to a hard finish.
Will be harder still for shorter climbers

STACK *** 10 (9/10D)
Climb to the ledge above the bolt ladder. Not using the tree or ladder may be > 11. (13?). Up to the smaller ledge and stem the gap to gain the arête on the other side of the gully. Up this noting the inter-locking stacked blocks at top.
FA: C Curson, G Janse van Rensberg 22.1.17

FREDDY **** 9 (8D)
Looks like a nightmarish, downward-flaring overhanging chimney. A (happy) surprise awaits you. Start at the back of the cave 6m R of the bolt ladder. Take care, as there may still be some loose stones about. Belayer beware. It may be necessary for the second to follow to clean this route.
FA: C Curson G Janse van Rensberg 22.1.17

Climb the rightmost arête of the descent gully (marked CIF). Start just left of the arête, crossing to the right.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

FEEL GOOD **(**) 14/15 (7D)
This route is under bolted and perhaps under graded. Actually good "traddy" climbing if appropriately bolted. The Crèche is a "feel good" area so it will probably "grow" a few more bolts. Start at corner 2m R of C I F. Layback up to where the corner opens to a face. Continue to anchors.
FA: Davies Clan 2008

Climb the right of the buttress on/near the arête. Original: "Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through a double and up."
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensberg Derk Battjes 2007

EXCUSE *** 19 (10D?)
Variant to the last route, starting to the right of the arête. Perhaps a little easier.
FA: ?

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Re: New beginners routes at The Crèche, Tranquilitas, Waterval Boven

Post by oubaas » Wed Feb 08, 2017 7:57 pm

Wow! Well done Clive. One of the original legends of Boven.

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