Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs climbing

[BradCT]

Hi All,

Can anyone steer me to a topo/ info on climbing in the Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs area? One particular 'massif' just off the coastal road grabs my eye every time I pass it!!
I would imagine you've gotta time this one just right, otherwise I'm sure you'd be slippin and sliddin all the way up.

Any advise and direction would be appreciated!

Cheers,
Brad.

[justin]

Not sure about a topo, but be aware that the cliff is on private land and the land owner not keen on climbers.
If memory serves the grades are around 25/6 ish.

[BradCT]

Thanx Justin,

Didn't realize that there were bolts!? Thought I'd need to place gear... prob will anyhow as I'd certainly agree on the rusty bolt theory!

I'll put on my 'nice' face when approaching the owner. Thank you for the advice.

Cheers.

[NatureBoi]

Not sure about a topo, but be aware that the cliff is on private land and the land owner not keen on climbers.
If memory serves the grades are around 25/6 ish.

If the land owner doesn't scare you away, the state of the bolts might!

Would you know if it is the same owner?
Would you have their details.
We would be interested in re-bolting.

Cheers
Cormac

[GClamp]

From what I can see the climbing area would fall on Erf 76.

Apparently this makes up part of the Baskloof nature reserve
baskloof.co.za/history

So it would be best to contact them probably.

[MIKESCOTT]

The bolted routes referred to are all on the extreme left hand side, on I vaguely remember dark brown rock, and even more vaguely probably opened by Jeremy Colenso, but I don't have my files of that stuff any more.

More importantly, there are really good Trad routes all over the main cliff of white rock, which were written up in the UCTMSC journals in the 60's .
If you would like the scanned info from the UCT Journals that Richard Behne kindly did for me in 2003, then send me your eMail to scottmj@telkomsa.net

The Central route is a classic, but used to be out of bounds when the Fitzpatrick ornithologists were watching the Eagle Chicks as a nest had been built on the last pitch that climbers had to avoid.

Now, as mentioned in the posts above, you need permission from the owners of the private reserve, and it was not forthcoming in the past.
Maybe contact Andy de Klerk who lives nearby as he may know how access can be arranged.
Good luck.

[Nic Le Maitre]

The UCT MSC journals are now all available online:

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/UCT_MSC_Journals

[The Jimmy]

1965 journal, page 40

[robertbreyer]

Hi Robert,

Here's the beta:

Tienie opened 5 bolted routes on the left side of the crag between 1997 and 1999.
Starting from the left - 23, 24, 25, 27, 25. The 23 is really good. The 27 has a cutter finger lock, the others are good. All are great, pumpy, endurance routes, but ALL OF THE BOLTS ARE SUSPECT. We climbed there about 3 months ago and it was like trad climbing on bolts, very, very scary on 20 year old rusted bolts. CLIMB AT YOUR OWN RISK!

The crag is on private land - Baskloof Nature Reserve - owned and administered by Ivan and Danielle Harris
Ivan Harris: 082 445 3241
Danielle Harris: 082 680 6188
Email Address: harris@mistycliffs.co.za
They need to be contacted for permission before going there to climb. Please respect this and call them before going there.

On the right hand side of the crag there is a section of white rock. Several routes were opened there by Tarquin Holt and Tienie in the 1980's. They are all trad and are of mixed quality, OK routes but nothing to write home about. I'm not sure if they were ever written up.

The Harris's are not that keen on route development at Misty Cliffs for conservation reasons, and the crag looks better than it actually is. It gets really schlorky. There's better climbing elsewhere to be honest, so rather come to The Far South when the surf is good or for some trail running or when the wind is SW for some really good paragliding above the cliffs rather than climbing on them.

Thanks

AdK

[GlennM]

I know that the Harris' were attempting to sell Baskloof recently. It may be worth finding out who the new owners are if the land has sold and renewing attempts to negotiate access

[justin]

Misty Cliff's is now open

You will need a permit - which can be obtained from --> https://forms.gle/cAE75hABP3QRe7KF6

Please take note of the Code of Conduct - In particular: Defecation shall be avoided at the crag, but if absolutely necessary; any human waste is to be carried out. All persons shall carry a plastic ziplock bag at all times for such an event.

This is the same story as for Boschkloof in Montagu.

Well done to the guys who arranged and organised access

[Rastaman]

Ooooh this is good news.
Is there a topo?

[mokganjetsi]

and would there be any scope to develop more routes?

[Nic Le Maitre]

Here's the writeup from the 1965 UCT MSC journal:

Bitter and Twisted
A new climb on Hoeksekrans
by Ian Bradburn

To begin with, Hoeksekrans is the name givon to a 100 foot high cliff-face which lies above the coastal road running between Kommetjie and Scarborough. You may remember that a climb called Cock Robin was oponed on this face just over two years ago.

One hot, dry Sunday, the last in October to be more precise, three somewhat squashed bodies filled one M.G. and set out along Chapman's Peak drive keeping a sharp look-out for the odd Provincial Traffic Cop.
Shortly, after trying to leave the road and run down Kommetjie lighthouse, while the driver was watching surfers on the "Kom", we arrived at the park ing spot at the base of the cliff.

Aftor sorting ourselves and the ropes out, we were soon bush bashing our way up the overgrown scree slope to the start of a diagonal recess about 75 yards to the right of "Cock Robin". Standing at the base of the rock we noticed a cairn lying between us and Cock Robin; then I remembered that it was probably the one that Derek, Dave and I had built about 8 months before when we added a variation to C. R. missing out 3 pitches.

In the beginning, the first pitch offered no real problems until the sun came over the crest of the cliff and promptly blinded me when I looked upwards for the next grip. Not wishing to walk round in dark glasses for the rest of my life, I climbed out of the recess and carried diagonally upwards to the right to a three foot lodge with a good belay point.

Dave took over the next pitch, which follow the same diagonal line for about 75 foot, (seems he too did not want to be blinded), to a narrow lodge. From there, with the sun no longer in our eyes we twisted back and carried on diagonally left, round a nose-like block, to just underneath the large overhang, about 300 feet up. During this part of the climb a great deal of horticulture had to be done. The piton hammer, besides being used to slam in pegs, was used very effectively as a spade, to remove many cubic yards of sand and muck from minute finger grips, and also as an axe to shift stubborn vegetation. Now at least the leader had a choice - either to be blinded by the sun or by the dust and boulders that fell into his bloodshot eyes.

But these were not all the pleasures we experienced on this clinb. Whilst climbing the fifth pitch I stepped on a large flake which showed its displeasure by parting from the rock face and leaving me hanging more or less by my eyebrows. Not quite satisfied after plunging straight down for 300 feet, it began to roll at an alarning rate towards the road below, threatening to flatten any passing car. All I could do was watch and pray. When it was about 50 feet from the road I gave up watching and started to concentrate on the latter. Eventually I could bear it no longer and opened my eyes just in time to see the rock plough to a stop just five feet from the road.

It was going on for five o' clock when we all eventually reached the wide ledge directly underneath the overhang. We had plans of using a arrow "dassie traverse about 12 feet above us, but the 12 feet consisted of rotten rock that crumbled when touched, so we gave up that idea. Eventually after many other tries in different directions, the leader traversed under the overhang then out long the nose to a good stance. From there it was a piece of cake, just a short bush scramble then about 85 foot of clean rock to the top. After a short debate on the top re decided to call the climb "Bitter and Twisted". "Bitter" to describe our feelings during the climb and "Twisted" to describe the climb.

We would like to recommend the climb for those who are interested in Cape Flora.

Opening party: Davo Stewart, Dick "Abbo" Hamilton and the writer.

Description:

1) 90 ft. "D". Starting in the recess about 100 yards to the right of Cock Robin, climb vertically for 20 feet, then climb out towards the right up to 3 ft. wide ledge.
3) 75 ft. "D" Following the same direction as pitch 1.
4) 50 ft. "E" Diagonally upwards towards the left, teminating on a loose looking block on the ridge.
5) 75 ft. "E" 25 ft. traverse to the left on overgrown ledges then up 50 ft. to narrow ledge.
6) 30ft. "E" Vertical to wide ledge under large overhang.
7) 50 ft. "E" Traverse to the left under overhangs then out along.
50 ft. "B" Vertical scramble through bushes
9) 80 ft. Vertical on good clean rock

[justin]

Thanks Nic.

I have received some info:

Glue-in bolted routes at Misty cliff from right to left are:
22 name ?
21 Flying Fish
reachy 26
old school 25 with a couple of pegs (not needed: new bolts exist)
25 ??
Project of Sean 27 through the middle of face with thin moves
24 Seasons of Mist
Far left 23 or 24 Teeny Gonads

The far left route has a hard 3rd or 4th clip if you rail left and clip off the edge. But if you do two moves up right to hug you can clip leaning left. New bolt will be added soon. Or, take a long draw and tape a stick to it and tape the biner open to clip the hard to reach bolt.

[justin]

Be advised:

Code of Conduct
- I will only use the designated path up to and down from the Crag.
- I will only park in the designated parking spaces as highlighted on the attached map.
- Intentional dislodgement of rocks off cliffs or down hillsides is dangerous and will not be condoned.
- Writing or graffiti is not permitted in any form on any rock, cliff face, tree or other natural surface.
- I will comply with notices, instructions and directions by the Manager and / or the Owner.
- I will not bring any vehicle onto the land.
- I will report trespassers (or unauthorised climbers & hikers) and suspicious activity to the Manager or Owner ASAP.
- The wearing of a protective climbing helmet whilst at the crag is advised.
- I will not litter at all – this includes finger tape, cigarette butts, waste such as orange peels and toilet paper or tissues.
- Defecation shall be avoided at the crag, but if absolutely necessary; any human waste is to be carried out. All persons shall carry a plastic ziplock bag at all times for such an event.
- Smoking and/or any open flame is disallowed due to the high potential for fires in fynbos vegetation and the severe consequences associated with fires.
- No stoves are to be used on the property. (The means bring your tea in a flask.)
- No overnighting / sleeping overnight on the property.
- No drinking of alcohol, playing of music or any unruly behaviour permitted.
- All animals including nesting and endangered birds should not be disturbed. Seasonal closure of Baskloof Crags may be required if nesting birds are likely to be disturbed. The feeding or intentional disturbance of any animal is prohibited.
- No plant, animal, wildlife or any natural or cultural items may be removed from the property without permission. To cut, damage, destroy or be in possession of any plant or part thereof, including dry wood or firewood is a serious offence.
- My access to the property is undertaken with due knowledge and appreciation of the risks inherent therein.
- Right of admission reserved.

Note that SnapScan not working yet payment to be made by eft as per the link.
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIp ... g/viewform

Access has been a decade long process on private land, indemnity to be completed each visit by every person and payment made R50 for every person every time so as not to jeopardize.

Big up to Sean Maasch and John Cohen for their efforts including cost of glue in bolts and to secure access

[justin]

All pics courtesy of Steve Koehorst (except the one).
The crag is best visited when the South Easter blows as it dries the crag and is protected.

Above: Roger on the 24 on the left at Misty Cliffs
Photo: Andrea

Above: Sean at Misty Cliffs crag

‘best when south Easter blows as dries crag and is protected‘

[justin]

Topo - route descriptions (rough guide).

[Rastaman]

Awesome thanks for this

[drewolden2007]

Flying fish is very unsafely bolted. It is a bold sequence and you are going to meet the ledge below for sure if you come off.
I'm grateful to people's efforts at the crag but really... would I want to do that route again?

Thanks for everything that made this crag accessible guys. I look forward to climbing some more (hopefully well bolted) routes there soon!
Drew

[stingrei]

? Shockingly bolted. I don’t understand. I didn’t bolt the route and it’s the usual warmup. You clip off jugs always and these being below the crux and 2 through crux. What is the problem?

[stingrei]

Plus it’s overhanging through the crux

[BruceDaniel]

I did this route a month or so ago on a shlaulky day and it felt dangerous getting a draw onto the first bolt on the overhanging section towards the top. I'd heard about the spicy bolting so I had cams on me - so I got thru with my dignity more or less intact.
Bringing this venue back to life is a great addition to the scene.

[stingrei]

Maybe you missed the big undercling at base of roof

[drewolden2007]

I heard that someone took a fall trying to clip and it was scary!
The route is a good one and I would do it again with a few cams.

[stingrei]

? Drew I cannot understand where you need a cam. It’s 21. You climb up to the roof clipping before it. Stand up and clip in the roof and then undercling and another clip and then you at the top. 25m high. Honestly I’ve taken 15m falls off Fleur de Afrique for example so what is the problem?

[justin]

? Drew I cannot understand where you need a cam. It’s 21.

@Drew - please inform of us of your age and height ?
Tx

[drewolden2007]

Someone else I was climbing with said it made them feel safer.Sorry to all wimpy- I'll just "get on with it" next time!

[stingrei]

Misty Cliffs is now downloadable on 27 Crags app

Includes the latest new routes 7a/24 sustained bouldery crimps ‘vat daai vygies’ by Cally Cohen, Leatherback 22/6c by Sean Maasch, 6c+/23 ‘Rimtide’ by Jono Cohen and the awesome long 7as, 6cs and harder existing routes including a bit of history climbing newly rebolted 25 The Last Colonist’, 26 ‘Nobody’s Perfect’, and 27 ‘Stiff Little Fingers’ originally done by Tinie Versveld and Ross Suter in the ?80s?

- all 13 routes are glue-in bolts; take a 70m rope and 15 draws and go in the am when it’s shady when the south Easter blows. And read the instructions for indemnity and permit in the thread

Then go for beers n pizza in Scarborough village.

PS read the thread for access. You need a permit and an indemnity. No exceptions. It’s private land.

[drewolden2007]

What is the 25 to the right of twilight world called . Think it's Jono Coen's Any info on the route next to vat daai vaygies, said to be 23/4
Thanks, Drew