Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
- nicolaasdekker
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Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
Any info on what the grades are there?
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller
- ScottS
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
The hardest looking line is called "Birds, Bugs and Bees"? and goes at around 25. I think there's also a 19, but don't remember the details.
Streaky - Enlighten us?
Streaky - Enlighten us?
At the chaaaaains boet!!
Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
Yup, there's a 19 - left hand line. 1 move thru an overlap about 4 m's up, rest much easier...
Bolts might need inspection by now...
Bolts might need inspection by now...
Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
The centre line is Bug, Birds and Bees as Scott says. Re the grade - I put it at 24/25 although there was a request to upgrade it to 27? Really it is just one hard move (little committing) so I think the former grade is right
.
I would be cautious of the bolts however given the location to the sea!!!!

I would be cautious of the bolts however given the location to the sea!!!!
- nicolaasdekker
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
Far left as in the last root on the left? not to sure about the terminology so cant match your description to the route. Been climbing on and off indoors at UKZN but not keen on bouldering, and to actually be able to climb on the big indoor wall needs other willing climbers as the club has no equipment of its own. I commute home to the south coast on week ends so if there are any other sub 20 grades in the area please let me know.
I headed over to Uvongo cos we used to boulder there when were kids and saw some chalk so tried the easiest looking one that didn't have rock under it in case I fell (the one on the far left) and like you said hard first move, rock was wet and had/have no shoes so I had no luck.
I headed over to Uvongo cos we used to boulder there when were kids and saw some chalk so tried the easiest looking one that didn't have rock under it in case I fell (the one on the far left) and like you said hard first move, rock was wet and had/have no shoes so I had no luck.
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller
Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
Yup, facing the crag, sea to your right, the route to the left. Was a while back so a bit hazy. There are two routes going through the large roof, the 19 is a few metres left of the roof. You should be able to see the line of bolts above the overhang. I seem to remember a few moves slightly overhanging, then a tricky pull through an overlap. BUT, BE VERY CAREFUL, IT IS LIKELY THE BOLTS WILL HAVE DEGRADED BY NOW. They are expansion bolts very close to the sea and its a damp crag (read up on this forum as to why that is a bad idea). This is not a route worth dying or being badly hurt for...
If you are on the south coast, there was some bolting done by 2 guys at Mtamvuna outside Port Edward about 20 kms up the gorge... not sure if access is still possible, I think they left a few years ago. Maybe some one has updated info?
Better - come to Swinburne this weekend!
If you are on the south coast, there was some bolting done by 2 guys at Mtamvuna outside Port Edward about 20 kms up the gorge... not sure if access is still possible, I think they left a few years ago. Maybe some one has updated info?
Better - come to Swinburne this weekend!
- nicolaasdekker
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
I'm not sure where swinburne is? However, as its saturday now i guess i'm too late. Thanks for the warning about the bolts, dont have gear anyway. Almost had enough set aside for shoes then i got my first ever speeding fine yesterday 

"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller
- ScottS
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
Top of Van Reenens pass. You can't miss it driving from Durban to Harrismith on the N3. Big hill on the left hand side at the Montrose service centre. Also see http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/index.ph ... =Swinburnenicolaasdekker wrote:I'm not sure where swinburne is?
P.S. don't speed near Swinburne, you will regret it..
At the chaaaaains boet!!
- nicolaasdekker
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
The guy who bolted the routes is going to climb & check on all the bolts at the end of March.
Managed to "boulder" up 5 or so meters before down climbing on the 19 on the far left.
Managed to "boulder" up 5 or so meters before down climbing on the 19 on the far left.
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
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- Nic Gear
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
On the 27th of March 2010, Robert Sprouce (aka Buggs) conducted some much needed maintenance at the Uvongo crag (KZN near Margate). He added two stainless steel chains at the top and an additional bolt at the mid-way point of Dustine line (19), then at the left end of the crag, and at the middle line, Shark bite (21) Buggs added a new bolt lower to the ground and new chains the top. In a month or two bugs will return and add stainless steel chains and an extra bolt to the 27 (bugs, birds and the beer). The two other climbs to the left are currently safe and needs no maintenance. The other 27 (hang dog) seems a bit suspect but after climbing it, Buggs is satisfied with the condition.
Uvongo is one of South Africa only Beach crags and makes for a great days climb particularly because there is an ocean to cool of afterwards, we are thankful for the time and effort Buggs put in for developing and maintain this fantastic climbing venue.
Uvongo is one of South Africa only Beach crags and makes for a great days climb particularly because there is an ocean to cool of afterwards, we are thankful for the time and effort Buggs put in for developing and maintain this fantastic climbing venue.

_______________________
only the Half mad are truely alive
only the Half mad are truely alive
- nicolaasdekker
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
The 27 is called "birds bugs and bees" or in some order of those words indicating the birds and bees that attacked bugs(Robert) when he tried to open the route.
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller
- nicolaasdekker
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface

Bugs putting in extra bolt on (dustline??) 19
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller
- nicolaasdekker
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface

Bugs working "Birds, bugs and bees" 27
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller
- nicolaasdekker
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface

Anthony clipping the chains on "birds bugs and bees" 27
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller
- nicolaasdekker
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface

(dustline??) 19 on the left and (sharkbite??) 21 having an extra bolt put in by Clinton
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller
- nicolaasdekker
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface

a face-on shot of the crag taken from the waters edge (um knee deep I think actually) (sharkbite??) 21 can just be seen on the far left.
Hope these pic's aren't too much, just wanted to post something so that one can get an idea of the place.
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
Dude, great pics. Would be really nice if they were added to the routes wiki, with the route info 

Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
Hi Nicolaas.
Lekker pictures, good work on getting the enthusiasm going down there!
Thanks to Bugs for the re-bolting.
Seems there are some new climbs (since a few years back), so...
We would be eternally grateful if you would do a route guide in the wicki!
C ya,
Bruce
Lekker pictures, good work on getting the enthusiasm going down there!
Thanks to Bugs for the re-bolting.
Seems there are some new climbs (since a few years back), so...
We would be eternally grateful if you would do a route guide in the wicki!
C ya,
Bruce
Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
I'm going to be staying in Margate for July. Can some one give me directions to the crag above ( google cords if possible ).
Or does any one else know of places I can climb that are around Margate?
Or does any one else know of places I can climb that are around Margate?
- nicolaasdekker
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Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
Uvongo beach. No co-ords necessary. Check bolts as this is on the beach. Have fun.
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller
Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
Hey could someone add the correct information to online route guide
http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/index.ph ... ongo_Beach
Or if someone could give me the info I'd do it myself. Like first accents and route info
http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/index.ph ... ongo_Beach
Or if someone could give me the info I'd do it myself. Like first accents and route info
Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
How still climbs uvongo ? Never knew that , if anyone climbs there get in touch
With me , only come home once a year though so can contact some people and get
Some climbing done .
Craig.saunders93@gmail.com
Craig@scds.co.za
+971 567 624 123
Cheers
With me , only come home once a year though so can contact some people and get
Some climbing done .
Craig.saunders93@gmail.com
Craig@scds.co.za
+971 567 624 123
Cheers
Re: Bolts at Uvongo beach rockface
Any update on the bolts and routes at uvongo ?
And does anyone have more info on the routes at mtavuna river in port Edward ?
If you can contact me on Craig.saunders93@gmail.com
0766938782
And does anyone have more info on the routes at mtavuna river in port Edward ?
If you can contact me on Craig.saunders93@gmail.com
0766938782