Database of rusted WC bolts

Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
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Database of rusted WC bolts

Post by fruits » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:03 pm

This topic is to act as database for bolts in Western Cape crags that look to be in a dodgy condition i.e. rusted or otherwise. Just note the route and which bolt is suspect. Keep your belly gazing to another topic stream. Hopefully one day somebody will act on this info.


Post by Fruits » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:04 pm

Josie get your gun - 4'th bolt


Post by Brent » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:05 pm

The anchors on Cool Hand Luke (18) at Silvermine main crag are not of the same standard as most other routes. Please take note when toproping this route. In fact, all toproping should clip not only both anchors of any route, but also the bolt just below this, for additional safety. The MCSA is taking note of routes that will require re-bolting, so any info on dodgy bolts will be appreciated. Please be patient, we are doing what we can and it's a huuuge job (and we also want to get out in the hills and have fun sometimes). Cheers.

Alan Jarvis

Post by Alan Jarvis » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:05 pm

This is a good idea to start a database of dodgy bolts. In addition, if you can photograph them, or when they get replaced, save the old bolt parts (if it gets removed) that would be very good.


Post by Jib » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:05 pm

Cool Hand Luke top anchors are definately dodgy.


Post by Rich » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:06 pm

Seems several people have noticed Cool Hand Luke anchors look suspect. It seems that the nuts are rusted as are the chain links, but the bolts themselves may well be fine. However I know very little about bolts and anchors so let the experts have a look.


Post by Ray » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:06 pm

The top right anchor of the last pitch of \"Belly Button Brigade\" the bolt is on piece of slab that sounds very hollow and it is sounding worse every few passing months, may be worth a check as it is a very popular route at its grade.


Post by keenclimber » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:06 pm

Can anyone give an opinion regarding the condition of the bolts at the Hole - seems to be a particularly vunerable wrt location. Most bolted more than 10 years ago. Is it serious enough to post a warning at the crag ( especially for out of towners) ?


Post by Rastaman » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:07 pm

Agreed about \"Belly Button Brigade\" top anchor, sounding very hollow. 2nd bolt of \"Talking to the Trees\" at Peers Cave has a rust stain on the rock behind the bolt. I think this means that the bolt is badly rusted inside. This is also on the crux and probally sees quite a few wipe outs.


Post by Stu » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:07 pm

woooh, its fun climbing in the year 2005...


Post by Rastaman » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:07 pm

Sorry, forgot that he who bolts is God and us lower climber life-forms dare not talk about bolts or bolting styles and ethics. I mean its just safety we are talking about. Seeing that a bolt has broken recently I think that its great that we should point out any suspect bolts!!!!!!!! Besides who actually owns a route, the bolter? Rubbish, it belongs to anyone who wants to climb it.


Post by Stu » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:08 pm

??? You talking about my post? Little bit touchy, I was merely indicating it's a bit scary climbing these days with the bolts breaking, not your post. You can say what you want.


Post by Rastaman » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:08 pm

Oops sorry about that. Was having a ruff day. I definately don't trust bolts as much as I used to. Maybe trad is the better option?


Post by Gri » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:08 pm

At the hole \"Twat vier\" definitely dodgey, Also \"Guns and buckets\" has rust streaks on some of the bolts. Note however that rust streaks do not necessarily indicate a badly rusted bolt. Most of the anchors on \"Sterling Silver\" have rust streaks but they were just from tiny rust spots behind the hanger where it touched the rock. The only way to know for sure is to remove the hanger and inspect the stud properly.


Post by Paddy » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:08 pm

The bolts on route number 1 at the Hole gave me pause for concern (generally the route is a big pause for me but of late the the intermarriage of orange and silver on the bolts is certain to get my heart racing even more)


Post by Dulwich » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:09 pm

The bolts on Virus at the Hole were enough to send me rushing back to topside!


Y2K Bug - Blaze of Glory

Post by Et » Sat Apr 30, 2005 9:39 am

The route \"Y2K Bug\"? - bolts were rusting - not stainless, anchors shabby & not safe. I would not recommend this route untill these issues are sorted!
It's on the far left of the Blaze of Glory crag - around the corner from Promise of Light (22)

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