Edelrid Mega Jul belay device - Anyone have experience with one?

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jabiru
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Edelrid Mega Jul belay device - Anyone have experience with one?

Post by jabiru »

I have noticed that MMO have started stocking Edelrid products lately. I'm am quite curios about the Edelrid Mega Jul belay device. The reviews of the device are quite mixed, seems that people either hate or love it.

Anyone on the forum have experience with the device? I am particularly interested in the following points:

-How easy/smooth is it to lower a second with the device rigged in auto-block mode?

-Is it necessary to redirect the brake strand and put a prusik on the brake strand before lowering a second? (As is the MO for lowering with the BD Guide and Petzl Reverso)

-What is the friction like pulling rope (8,7mm half ropes) through the device in guide mode when bringing up a second?

Any feedback and opinions will be greatly appreciated it!


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raphaeltube
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Real Name: Raphael
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Re: Edelrid Mega Jul belay device - Anyone have experience with one?

Post by raphaeltube »

Check out the newer Giga Jul.
-Seems to have sorted many of the issues. I tried a friends one and will be getting one soon.

-R
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climbcityrock
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Re: Edelrid Mega Jul belay device - Anyone have experience with one?

Post by climbcityrock »

Hey there,

Here are some pretty cool videos which take you through how these two devices (Mega Jul and Giga Jul) function.

Giga Jul:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSvXc7Wcwqg

Mega Jul:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OQEn4zxN-Q

I hope this helps!
SNORT
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Re: Edelrid Mega Jul belay device - Anyone have experience with one?

Post by SNORT »

Like any device it takes some getting used to but it is close to idiot proof.
rasmus
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Re: Edelrid Mega Jul belay device - Anyone have experience with one?

Post by rasmus »

So here is a nuanced view ;-)

It's really great for peace of mind in case of rockfall on your belayer, inattention etc, etc. The auto lock (assisted brake) works really well and gives extra peace of mind when you're leading. It's light and small, so great when you want to save weight. Rapping and lowering with the device takes a bit of getting used to. Again the auto-break works well for sorting out ropes etc, but it takes a bit of practice before you get a smooth ride.

The biggest downside is the guide mode, which isn't nearly as smooth as for example an ATC and frankly is too much work. I have started belaying the normal way even from above with the rope(s) running through a piece placed above. That works well, lowering is pretty easy too and it's easy to hold your second because of the assisted breaking.

I've used it for about a year and it's my go to device now. Nothing does everything perfectly, but overall this is the best compromise for me and I use it everywhere from the gym to multi-pitch trad climbing. Overall the biggest benefit for me is the extra safety combined with the ability to belay double ropes. I recommend it.
SNORT
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Re: Edelrid Mega Jul belay device - Anyone have experience with one?

Post by SNORT »

Nicely put rasmus. The guide mode is not necessary and it is much more user friendly to belay directly off your harness and then through a higher directional or just straight off one;s harness. The guide mode is only necesseary if you want the option to escape the system.

I don't use it in locking mode in abseiling especially long abseils. I use flip it the other way and then use a prussic so it slides like a normal atc and the prussik is the back up. Much smoother.
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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Edelrid Mega Jul belay device - Anyone have experience with one?

Post by Nic Le Maitre »

rasmus wrote: Tue Nov 12, 2019 9:02 pmI have started belaying the normal way even from above with the rope(s) running through a piece placed above. That works well, lowering is pretty easy too and it's easy to hold your second because of the assisted breaking.
Be careful doing that. I know your partner is following, not leading, so fall factors are low, but you're still subjecting a single piece to the full force of their fall (It's actually double because the redirect piece acts as a pulley). The forces will be low but if you're not using the guide mode, rather belay off your harness.
Happy climbing
Nic
rasmus
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Re: Edelrid Mega Jul belay device - Anyone have experience with one?

Post by rasmus »

Yeah, obviously it depends on the circumstances and often I'll be belaying directly off my harness. But if that's awkward at a given ledge, I'm not too concerned using a bomber piece as a re-direct while tied into the anchor. If it can't hold a toprope, even with the pulley effect, I'm not sure I'd want to lead on my gear ;-)
SNORT
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Re: Edelrid Mega Jul belay device - Anyone have experience with one?

Post by SNORT »

Agreed Rasmus. However when re directing above to a piece above you, the distance between the belay device and the re-direct biner does not have to be long. So if the piece is high up I add a sling to shorten the distance to say 20 or 30cm so that if on the off chance it fails the direct shock force onto my harness belay loop is lessened.
SNORT
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Re: Edelrid Mega Jul belay device - Anyone have experience with one?

Post by SNORT »

Agreed Rasmus. However when re directing above to a piece above you, the distance between the belay device and the re-direct biner does not have to be long. So if the piece is high up I add a sling to shorten the distance to say 20 or 30cm so that if on the off chance it fails the direct shock force onto my harness belay loop is lessened.

Guide mode set up is generally inefficient and often awkard in the SA context because we have so few fixed belays and those that are fixed are not always well positioned. It is generally better to belay off one's harness and safer.
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