Advice on shortening a damaged rope

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Spaniel
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Advice on shortening a damaged rope

Post by Spaniel »

My rope:
Beal Top Gun ii 10.5mm 60 m
Age: 1 year (but i would say it has about half a years worth of wear and tear on it since I don't climb that often)

How I damaged it:
Lets just say that swinging on a rope attached to a bridge is a stupid idea. (I know I'm an idiot. Trust me I'm kicking myself. Don't try at home kids)
So now there is one spot about 14m from the end where half of the sheath is torn away. I inspected the rest of the rope and its just this spot where the sheath is badly damaged.

So this is what I'm considering:

Shorten the rope to 46m and only be able to climb routes that are shorter than 23m.
OR
Keep that extra 14m and only climb on the other end.
OR
Just buy a new rope (which is expensive, especially the Beal top gun ii)

I have an idea of some of the pros and cons for each option but I would please like to hear what you would do and why.

P.S. I would like to apologise in advance to anyone that is offended by my reckless behaviour. I have learnt my lesson.
mokganjetsi
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Re: Advice on shortening a damaged rope

Post by mokganjetsi »

Spaniel wrote: Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:03 pm Shorten the rope to 46m and only be able to climb routes that are shorter than 23m.
yes, best option. the extra 14m can still be used creatively as tat, building anchors etc. could climb slightly longer than 23m due to rope stretch and lowering straight down (as opposed to routes wandering; being overhanging). always tie a knot at belayer's end though!
Spaniel wrote: Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:03 pm Keep that extra 14m and only climb on the other end.
taking falls on only one end will wear it down quickly. also, when lowering the damaged part will go through the belayer's device which could result in complications; full sheath tear eventually; sheath loosening etc.
Spaniel wrote: Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:03 pm Just buy a new rope (which is expensive, especially the Beal top gun ii)
not the worst option; you can still use your shortened rope for short routes and the new rope for long routes; maximising their combined life-span and still get good value out of both ropes.

IMPORTANT: if you cut your rope, remember to always tie a knot in the belayers' end :thumleft:
wildx
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Re: Advice on shortening a damaged rope

Post by wildx »

option 1 and option 3...

Use old rope for short crags like Fern kloof and your local gym. Use new rope for all the other crags.

You can also use the old rope for fun activities such as bridge swings.

Option 2... Just dont...
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justin
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Re: Advice on shortening a damaged rope

Post by justin »

Something that I've seen done: If the core is unscathed, one could wrap it up with tendon tape.
This is not recommended or safe practice.

Any chance of a picture of the damaged section ?
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Spaniel
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Re: Advice on shortening a damaged rope

Post by Spaniel »

See damage.

The core is okay and it is a unicore rope but I don't know man looks kinda sketchy.
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clickbutt
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Re: Advice on shortening a damaged rope

Post by clickbutt »

If you shorten the rope, just never lend the rope out without being very specific about telling people how long it is. I believe there was an accident a few years ago where a team got hurt because the rope was shorter than standard.

Also tell every new person you climb with before each session.
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justin
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Re: Advice on shortening a damaged rope

Post by justin »

Thanks for the pic.

IMO - Chop the rope. The damage appears to be relatively severe with the core appearing to be damaged (slightly furred).

Then after you have cut the rope; on the longer section that you intend to use for climbing, thread in some colourful cotton as a warning (on both ends) - make it look strange/weird (so that everyone asks why have you got all this thread coming out your rope!!??)

As expensive as climbing ropes may be, its going to be significantly cheaper (and less hassle) than a trip to the hospital.
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SNORT
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Re: Advice on shortening a damaged rope

Post by SNORT »

Never a good idea to chop a rope. Really can be very dangerous if lowering someone and it creates uncertainty. So either shelve it or keep it long.

If you keep it long then from what I can see it is only the mantel that is damaged and not the core. Tape it up and then its fine. It will never break with normal use but to be safe lead on the other end.

In multipitch it is rare for pitches to be a full rope length and then the second can tie in distal to the damage and let the redundant part hang below or wrap around waist.

However I suggest you always include the damaged bit in a loop knot (simple loop or butterfly) so as to warn people not familiar with the rope when coiling it.
RyanKarate
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Re: Advice on shortening a damaged rope

Post by RyanKarate »

Chop it, mark the new middle, and buy the 9.5mm Simmond dry treated 70m rope from decathlon for R2100.
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