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New Gear advice

Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 8:36 pm
by madcrazyhaha
Hey all.

I'm pretty new to climbing. I've been doing it now for about 2 months now. I'm looking at buying some gear but need some advice.

Currently, i have the following:
1x BD momentum AL harness
1x chalk bag
1x evolve demorto shoes
1x BD atc-xp
3x Biners

I'm looking at getting the following:
1 x Beal Flyer 10.2 x 60m Rope
8 x BD Quickwire 12cm Draws
8 x BD Quickwire 18cm Draws

Any advice on additional gear I would need?

I'm also considering a petzel grigri. My atc-xp keeps getting edges after intense belaying. Any ideas as to why this is? I assume it's from the atc-xp constantly bumping the biner. WHat implications does this have on rope?


Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 9:09 am
by Mark
I think the 8 long draws are unnecessary at this point (maybe just buy two long draws) - but you will need at least two short slings (60 cm I think) to be used with your biners for cleaning at the top of routes.

Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 9:22 am
by stephan
A sling or two will come in handy, mostly when cleaning the chains. I recommend the Beal 6mmx60cm sling. I back my sling up with some neat accessory cord which I tied into a 60mm sling, plus you then have the cord if you need it to prussik your way out of a crappy situation..

Grigri is cool, read the tech talk article in SAMM Dec 2006 first ( Then read the thread on the BD atc-guide (Gear Questions & Review) and decide for yourself (personally I would go for the atc-guide).

My 2cents worth..

Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:07 am
by scottnoy
Before you run out and buy a Grigri, have a quick look at the new Edelrid-EDDY. It's similar to the Grigri, but more safe in my opinion, as you'll find it rather difficult to drop someone while using it ;-)

Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 10:58 pm
by madcrazyhaha
I've got the slings. i'm using petzl slings, both 60cm slings. Not too bad but i find them to be a little stiff to use, comparing to my climbing buddies slings which are far nicer to use. Much softer.

The Edelrid-EDDY looks awesome. i'll look into it.

Thanks for the tips guys.

Buy your climbing gear all over

Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 7:14 am
by Cobra
Buy your climbing gear all over, try to to support as many different climbing and gear shops as possible. When it comes to clothing buy South African.


Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 5:26 pm
by Chalk
did not see you list at least two prussics .. save you having to bail on those nice BD biners (not that the rest of us mind :wink: ). I have some very basic rescue equipment, a pezl pulley and oval screw gate, a wildcountry ropeman II and a designated locking biner for it. Think the most important thing is - more gear does not make a better climber, learn to use what you have to the max without compromising safty. And a helmet ... you only have one skull, look after it!

Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 5:42 pm
by fridge
well currently we are using my bail out stuf

i have u bolts and mailons

I agree

Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:19 am
by Drifter
I agree with Chalk, equipment does not replace knowledge. It took me four years to realise this, I am now only learning climbing knots that I should of learned long ago.

Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 2:22 pm
by justin
Check out this site for learning knots


Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 2:49 pm
by Drifter
Thanks Justin, I know that website thats where I learned the knots.