White Face: Lions Head

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
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Real Name: Nicolaas Dekker
Location: Dushanbe, Tajikistan

White Face: Lions Head

Post by nicolaasdekker »

Good day,

Had only one reasonably clear day to climb but had to deal with heavy mist all day on Lions Head.

Pitch 2 of White Face was completely wet so had to bail and try find something dry.

Question: Was this an action of the mist or is this route generally wet in winter?

Many thanks

‎"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure, life is either a daring adventure or nothing" - Helen Keller
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Real Name: Justin Lawson
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Re: White Face: Lions Head

Post by justin »

Probably a combination of both! Probably quite a bit of water seeping through.

Go check Muizenberg Crag for drier conditions.
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Re: White Face: Lions Head

Post by ant »

Climbing in mist can be a fantastic experience.
There is however a 'condensation-point' / 'dew-point' beyond which the moisture condenses and quickly coats everything in a layer of moisture - which quickly becomes unenjoyable and/or dangerous.

All our sandstone will 'seep' during winter. However most of the popular spots on TM are on sandstone that is fairly 'level; and should be fine 2 - 3 days after rain. Some exceptions might include the lower buttress, and some spots like the Hole and the Mine.
This is in contrast with Du Toits - where the left/North side of the valley has rock-structure that slopes 'towards the cliff-surface' - so water seeps out for most of the winter, while the 'right/ South side has rock-structure that slopes backwards (away from the cliff-face) and is therefore usually climbable year round after just one good day of sun following rain...

That's my take - some more geologically inclined folks may have better wisdom, or explain it better!

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Re: White Face: Lions Head

Post by mokganjetsi »

i find that in mist / cloud the rock often stays perfectly dry but water condensates on grass, leaves, your gear (and your beard) making for a soggy climbing experience. always wondered why mist doesn't condensate on rock? anybody?
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Re: White Face: Lions Head

Post by Brussel »

possibly because the rock retains heat and is warmer than the surrounding damp air on a misty day if I had to guess.
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