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Red Guitar Beta please

Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2021 11:15 am
by drewolden2007
Whats the best beta for me (160 cm tall) for the crux moves of Red Guitar/ where is the Kneebar?
Please help me out.

Re: Red Guitar Beta please

Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2021 11:38 am
by GClamp
There were some videos posted recently showing different beta's.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7UO_Dab2xg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLsoOHnZous

Re: Red Guitar Beta please

Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2021 12:28 pm
by tygereye
I am 1.64m and the first version here was the best beta for me. It's less of a stretch at the crux. However, shorter people have been successful with the second version's beta.

Re: Red Guitar Beta please

Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2021 3:08 pm
by wesleywt
The first version of the crimp crux, the hold he is grabbing with his left is pretty tough (3:13 in the video). My left foot is where he is placing it (on a small rice grain bump), but my right foot is directly below me on a little crack seam. This enables me to hold to two small crimps easy without having to pull hard allowing me to generate momentum for the deadpoint. I then deadpoint to the juggish hold with my right hand. I am 1.63m. I fell there on one go because I jump passed the hold :hapban .

I find I can't get my foot so high in the second version.

The kneebar is after the mini-traverse.

Re: Red Guitar Beta please

Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 5:40 pm
by drewolden2007
Thanks, I was working the line last Tuesday and took a really cool whipper after lots of slack got pulled up with my knee- stopped just 2 meters past
the mini traverse. The first beta's working really well too. I am enjoying my efforts on this route more than any other!
The Mine's an amazing place to spend an afternoon. I was also lucky enough to witness Jeremy (Samson) grade span A Gift Of Wings.
Cool things are happening these days!
:thumleft:

Re: Red Guitar Beta please

Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2021 7:20 pm
by drewolden2007
Whoopee! Thanks everyone, I sent!
:hapban

Re: Red Guitar Beta please

Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 11:30 am
by Chris F
drewolden2007 wrote: Wed Jan 27, 2021 5:40 pm grade span
I feel old asking this, but what does "grade span" mean?

Good job on RGoF. for homework go listen to U2's Rattle and Hum and find where the route name comes from! :wink:

Re: Red Guitar Beta please

Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 1:34 pm
by Jeremy Samson
It's a ridiculous Keith Forbes thing - you need to climb a route twice and have the number of years between the two ascents match the grade.
So I climbed Gift of Wings in 1993 and again this year 2021 = 28 years between ascents and grade 28.

Its a challenge which suits the older generation of climbers.

Re: Red Guitar Beta please

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2021 7:26 pm
by drewolden2007
Ha, the way I herd the term used it sounded like a common phrase that I should be using.

Also, I did my homework – the name comes from the U2 song Desire
"I got my red guitar - on fire!, des... i i i i i i i i i i i re"
:thumleft:

Re: Red Guitar Beta please

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2021 11:25 pm
by Chris F
Jeremy Samson wrote: Mon Feb 01, 2021 1:34 pm It's a ridiculous Keith Forbes thing - you need to climb a route twice and have the number of years between the two ascents match the grade.
So I climbed Gift of Wings in 1993 and again this year 2021 = 28 years between ascents and grade 28.

Its a challenge which suits the older generation of climbers.
Never heard that before, cool concept. Sadly I live on the other side of the world to all my highpoints. I did 26 when I was 26 though, might try do a local one when I'm 52 in April.... :drunken:

And full marks on the homework! Hope Google wasn't used. :lol:

Re: Red Guitar Beta please

Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2021 2:24 pm
by drewolden2007
Chris F wrote: Wed Feb 03, 2021 11:25 pm And full marks on the homework! Hope Google wasn't used. :lol:
Ha no, not by me, we were driving in a friend's car and I was explaining about the route when my friend's dad put on the song for us to show us where the name was from.
I also flashed Jimmy And The Big Boys last Saturday and am enjoying ticking off these great lines in a style I like!