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Prince Albert / Swartberg Pass

Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2019 3:33 pm
by AndreH
Are there any climbers here who live in Prince Albert or Oudshoorn, or who climb regularly in the Swartberg? I am likely to move to Prince Albert permanently (lets call it a semi retirement) in the coming months and the climbing in the Swartberg looks absolutely amazing.

I see here: ... tberg-pass that Derek Marshall, Terence Travaskis and Ruben Snyman opened some routes at Horlosiekloof On the Swartberg Pass) in June this year. If any of these guys see this please get in contact with me, a fellow traveller with some trad experience and his own gear and who can lead sport routes up to 22. Alternatively if anyone can put me in touch with any one of these guys or any other climbers who live in Prince Albert/Oudshoorn, I would appreciate it.


Re: Prince Albert / Swartberg Pass

Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2019 9:35 pm
by Marshall1
Hi Andre

Swartberg Pass is lots of fun. There is a group in PE keen to make more trips there. There is talk of a trip in December, so let's tie up.

King regards
Derek Marshall

Re: Prince Albert / Swartberg Pass

Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2019 6:04 am
by AndreH
Hi Derek,

Brilliant. Thanks for your reply. I should be there in December and keen to climb. I found some of the routes on the yellow lichen slabs this past weekend (just had a look -see) but couldn’t find the routes or even the crags on the Pass from the directions.

Please keep me posted.


Re: Prince Albert / Swartberg Pass

Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2019 9:29 am
by KDK
Hi Andre & Derek,

We are planning on doing some climbing there in December. Would like to hook up. Will send you email...

Re: Prince Albert / Swartberg Pass

Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2019 6:30 pm
by Marshall1
Hi Andre

The crags are all in the lowest part (the poort section) of the pass, closest to Prince Albert. Should be easy to find. I will add a map to the guide in due course.

Re: Prince Albert / Swartberg Pass

Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2019 3:48 pm
by Snoekie
Hi Andre,

We are climbing in the pass this coming Saturday with friends who climb mostly in Oudtshoorn. We are meeting in the Horlosie car park at 09h30. Feel free to join us.

There is an ex. Capetonian climber who retired to Prins Albert. I see he has opened some new routes. His name is Basher. I cannot recall the surname but he would be a good Prins Albert climber to get you going.

For your interest, my wife and I live in Mossel Bay so Swartberg, Oudtshoorn, Gamkaberg, Wolwerivier, etc have become local for us so it will be good to meet another climber from the area.

079 378 5669

Re: Prince Albert / Swartberg Pass

Posted: Tue May 04, 2021 10:21 am
So the Swartberg pass and Horlosie Buttress in particular has seen some action, no less from the prolific Squeaks. Did a new route with him The Proliferator that then conjures up a whole lexicon of "ator" routes. So its letting Dogs sleep and giving up on Time and some samples you can all look forward too are:

Terminator (or that could just be "Arnold")

I could go on but will spare you and leave it to your imaginator. The list is long!

More importantly, is that new routes are being done and there are two rap routes one bolted and one trad recently fashioned. The bolted one (due to darkness) top anchor is not at the tippy top so this needs to be sorted but otherwise the best way to get off the buttress.

Mike Dom and me, did a variation (although) we did not know it at the time of New Belly Dancers that we called, yes you guessed it, the Dominator (21). First pitch is excellent with a bolted lower off.
Swartberg Horlosie crag abseil stations with Dominator 21 and variation to NBD 19 and Proliferator low res 2.jpg

Re: Prince Albert / Swartberg Pass

Posted: Tue May 04, 2021 9:44 pm
by Marshall1
There is a South Cape MCSA meet at Swartberg this weekend, Greg Divine is the meet leader. Quite a few traders are mustering, swing past if you are keen.

We are accommodating at Bushman Valley Nature Reserve. Pull in, the more the merrier!

Mail me if you are keen on details

Re: Prince Albert / Swartberg Pass

Posted: Fri May 07, 2021 2:24 pm
by Ringalatus
Mallory Attwell, AKA, Basher, and I opened, and he with others opened, a few routes in the Swartberg Pass some years back. Grade 14 to 17. Best you contact him on to describe how to find the routes. He lived there for several years and knows the Swartberg pass very well.
Andrew ( Ringo) H-G