
Starting to trad...
Starting to trad...
I've been climbing sport for about a year and a half and want to start trad climbing. What would be the most comprehensive and informative book to buy. Obviously I'm gonna learn the most from just doing it, but I'd like to have some sort of clue what to do when things go wrong - with me they usually do
Any help is greatly appreciated!

“ Behold, I lay in Zion
A chief cornerstone, elect, precious,
And he who believes on Him will by no means be put to shame.”
A chief cornerstone, elect, precious,
And he who believes on Him will by no means be put to shame.”
Books
This is a copy from an earlier post:
The list of climbing books (most in the \"How To Climb\" series) by John Long is very good, recommended by many and readily available in SA. I only own and have read the \"Climbing Anchors\" book, and can recommend it (talks mainly about trad anchors and stances with lots of pictures and analysis of gear positions etc.).
The book \"Mountaineering freedom of the hills\" (now in 7th edition) has a reputation in the USA of being the \"mountaineering bible\". It has been a best selling mountaineering book for yonks. It is thick, comprehensive and fairly detailed and I found it to be a very useful reference to go back to time and again. But: it is pricy and I have not seen it in SA book shops (maybe Kalahari.net?).
The list of climbing books (most in the \"How To Climb\" series) by John Long is very good, recommended by many and readily available in SA. I only own and have read the \"Climbing Anchors\" book, and can recommend it (talks mainly about trad anchors and stances with lots of pictures and analysis of gear positions etc.).
The book \"Mountaineering freedom of the hills\" (now in 7th edition) has a reputation in the USA of being the \"mountaineering bible\". It has been a best selling mountaineering book for yonks. It is thick, comprehensive and fairly detailed and I found it to be a very useful reference to go back to time and again. But: it is pricy and I have not seen it in SA book shops (maybe Kalahari.net?).
a bit off the topic
one day we all might grow up to be just like this strong man (Fiddler on the Roof 5.13d)







Tony Lourens' Complete Climbing Manual was one of best I have ever seen of that type of book. A good option.
But I would skip those how-to books & get gear. Climbing books are generaly boring bollocks. Only good for impressing mates...for a limited period. Most gear, if new, comes with an instruction tag. The rest is only really learned by experiance.
But I would skip those how-to books & get gear. Climbing books are generaly boring bollocks. Only good for impressing mates...for a limited period. Most gear, if new, comes with an instruction tag. The rest is only really learned by experiance.
Return of the guest....
Have to agree with you \"best bet is to climb many routes with experienced knowledgable trad climbers\". Reading books on how-to climb trad is just not as good as getting out there with someone who has the nessary experiance.
\"not Marshall as clearly, he doesnt read books\"....I read quite abit, but mostly politics, history & occasionaly a climbing book. Sure information is non exhaustive, & it would not hurt reading it up, but at a certain point you have to get on with it. Not sure how many trad routes I've climbed in my life, but last year I opened more than 200. So bollocks to Guest
Have to agree with you \"best bet is to climb many routes with experienced knowledgable trad climbers\". Reading books on how-to climb trad is just not as good as getting out there with someone who has the nessary experiance.
\"not Marshall as clearly, he doesnt read books\"....I read quite abit, but mostly politics, history & occasionaly a climbing book. Sure information is non exhaustive, & it would not hurt reading it up, but at a certain point you have to get on with it. Not sure how many trad routes I've climbed in my life, but last year I opened more than 200. So bollocks to Guest
Well...well...my dad's a fireman! So what do you say about that?!
I really appreciate all the info, EQUALLY. No need to drop our pants and have a size-up (cause I'd most likely loose
). Now let's all kiss and and make up. I'm currently climbing with an experienced trad climber, so it's all good. I'm just trying to get as clued up as possible. Once again, thanx for all the info.


Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. Another vote for just get out there with an experienced leader and do it. I'd only just started leading when I did my first trip to yosemite, albeit sticking to the smaller multi-pitch stuff.
\"When you look into the abyss, the abyss also looks into you\". - Oom Nietzsche