Jokerman - a gem on Maverick Buttress

Latest South Africa climbing news! Good news - Hard sends, first ascents, onsights, wicked redpoints, competitions, etc. Bad news - accidents, muggings, rockfalls, etc. You can also send it on over to

Post Reply
Posts: 1329
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Jokerman - a gem on Maverick Buttress

Post by SNORT »

I climbed this route with my mates Nick Abrahams and Tini Versfeld yesterday. It is a fantastic steep, well protected route with variety and funky moves and excellent pro. Well worth doing. It is probably correctly graded at 23 on-sight but is easier than some of the grade 23 pitches on the Ledge.

I also climbed "Unforgiven" last Tuesday which I thought was contrived at the crux on the 2nd pitch where one steps right into an overhanging recess that leaves a short climber very extended and then also somewhat run-out. Instead of stepping around right it makes imminently more sense to climb straight up onto the gray slab above and then up right to the belay. Avoiding this heinous recess which on-sight is probably grade 24, also results in more consistent climbing at a grade at around 21/22 overall.

Well done Tini and Nick for providing us with some excellent new routes.

This crag is well worth a visit from around 15h00 onwards this time of the year as the shade arrives then....
Post Reply