Bolting a new area

Ask. Answer. Discuss. Any bolting related issues.
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brvdw
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Bolting a new area

Post by brvdw »

I have found a crag that I don't think anyone has climbed before but besides that it is not bolted and I would like to know who I can get to bolt the area.

The place is called Botshabelo and its a few km out of Middelburg. I can't seem to get hold of anyone to ask about permission to bolt the mountain. But I know you can go in freely and hike around there.

Anyone with some info and legal advice to how I would be able to bolt it. Also need someone to bolt it for me.
andrew p
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by andrew p »

Kiddo, you got some work to do. Bolting is not something that is done in a jiffy; it is a process, best borne from motivation.

1. First find out who the landowner is and if he is happy for bolting and then the climbers on his property, all land has an owner.
2. Confirm there are no trad climbs there and that it is unsuitable for trad, i.e its hasnt got gear-hungry cracks. I am sure there is a trad venue there somewhere..
3. Be sure its really worth it; a climb costs about R1000 to bolt and takes about a day per climb. Take some pictures and post them on this forum. Theres nothing worse that lines that are bolted and are never done again, there are a couple of guys doing this in SA.
4. Bolt it yourself; unless its amazing which is unlikely no one else will do it for you. Buy a drill and some bolts (the right kind). Or you could join the MCSA and get some advise from them, are you a member?

So yes, its a major F-ing mission, there aint teams of bolters who will ab in from the sky and do it for you.

Enjoy, Andrew
pierre.joubert
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by pierre.joubert »

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brvdw
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by brvdw »

Well there is more than one crag at Botsabelo, the one is quite a far hike in. But I'm still trying to track the owners down, once I have gotten hold of the owners i'd like to take someone with me that is involved in the community that can ask them about permission on bolting routes.

I am not interested in gaining anything from this other than just having a place to climb on my door step. As for the money for buying bolts and so on, i'd be more than happy to pay and not want anything in return. I do understand this is going to be very costly and time consuming but I am willing to do what it takes to bolt that area.

The area is really amazing and definitely worth climbing. There is place to trad and sports climb, that's why I would like to get hold of someone that can assist me in the right direction because i'm really interested in getting this done right.
pierre.joubert
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by pierre.joubert »

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Marshall1
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by Marshall1 »

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SNORT
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by SNORT »

Get the co-ordinates and I shall ask a buddy of mine, a land surveyor, to get the details of the owner for you
Franz
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by Franz »

Good luck Brandon! Keep me in the loop, I would love to help where possible.

Its good to see the positive feedback you're getting :thumleft:
brvdw
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by brvdw »

Google map cords is -25.712229,29.439754

I really dont mind going the extra mile to get this up in running, my first concern is putting other people into consideration such a trad climbers. I dont want to mess up something potentially great.

And that image that was posted is one of the other crags in the area, there is a much bigger one on the exact gps cords that i provided.

The only reason i'm doing this is so Middelburg can have a climbing area on their door step.
But if all else fails and no one is interested in helping I would at least like to get in touch with some one that does bolting that has experience so they can assist me, and of course it will be at my own expense.
pierre.joubert
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by pierre.joubert »

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dirktalma
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by dirktalma »

Wow. Just checked it out on google earth. It's less than 5km from Middelburg. Great that you're taking ownership of this initiative! When you've established access, let us know. I'm very keen to come help bolt and open some lines.
Maybe you can organise a meet or something where anyone can bring a trad rack to scope out some lines and check out the rock quality.

Contact the Magalies (http://mag.mcsa.org.za/) and Joburg sections of the MCSA. They have a bolt fund. They would be more than willing to help with access and hardware.

I'm not much of a financial benefit, but I'll bring a drill and gear and do the work. Keep us posted
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emile
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by emile »

I'll pee in the soup too

It's late, I'm lazy and had plenty wine, so I'm not going to check out your GPS thingies now.

Please do check out Ryk's spot though
http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/index.ph ... falo_Gorge

The rock looks similar and he's keen to get it developed. Drop my name, I've had a few chats with him and he's a really nice guy. I would not be surprised if your crag is close by or perhaps even the same place. PM me or whatever if you want more info.
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justin
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by justin »

dirktalma wrote:I'm not much of a financial benefit, but I'll bring a drill and gear and do the work. Keep us posted
In my opinion doing the work equates to the same as putting money in. Bolting is hard work, I particularly liked Andrew p's comment below :thumleft:
Andrew p wrote:there ain't teams of bolters who will ab in from the sky and do it for you.
justin@climbing.co.za
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Cell/WA: +27 72 676 9326
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deSouzaFrank
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by deSouzaFrank »

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jellybelly
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by jellybelly »

The property is Farm Toevlugt No.320, Steve Thwete Municipality, Administrative District JS, Mpumalanga and is owned by the Botshabelo Community Trust

Happy hunting

Mark 0828940686
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GavinP
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by GavinP »

@ Branden
I don't want to mess up something potentially great.
Great attitude! Some of our more fêted climbers could learn a bit from you!
"I climb as hard as anyone on earth - I just do it on [much] easier routes!" Mad Dog
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mullet
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by mullet »

Wow, thats roughly 27 square km, and bought for the sweet price of just over R50000! Someone struck a sweet deal...
...Chalk is cheap...
brvdw
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by brvdw »

Well I've gotten hold a trad climber that is also willing to help me bolt the place.

Till I get permission to blot the crags I'm gonna be learning how to trad climb and discovering new routes and planning what to bolt. Any one is welcome to come and climb the crags, its open to the public, we are just unaware if we may bolt it just of yet, but now that I know where to track the owner down i'll be talking to them very soon and I will keep you guys updated.

For those of you that want to come check it out you are more than welcome because it is open to the public. You can set up top anchors or trad climb the crags till we get permission to bolt it.
Hector
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by Hector »

Just to stir a bit: why bolt it at all?
At the least, play long and hard on gear and toprope before deciding to bolt. Once the first bolt has gone in the place will never be the same again, for better or worse.
Respect for taking the trouble and having the psyche to persue this. New routes are just about the most fun you can have.
Enjoy.
brvdw
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by brvdw »

Well there is enough place to trad and sports climb. I don't want to exclude any climbers and for Middelburg this is our closet place to climb so we need a variety. Only letting people trad climb will limit a lot of people that want to start new and I don't want that to happen. I would like everyone in Middelurg to climb, sports or trad.
Chris F
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by Chris F »

brvdw wrote: I would like everyone in Middelurg to climb, sports or trad.
If everyone in Middelburg climbs, you are going to have some pretty crowded crags! :lol:

Looks like it has potential to be a great spot, whatever you choose to do to it.
deSouzaFrank
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by deSouzaFrank »

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non-MCSA member
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pierre.joubert
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by pierre.joubert »

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RianLauw
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by RianLauw »

Hi all.

We went to this area over the past weekend and found that it has great potential. Especially due to the fact that it is on the doorstep of Middelburg and Witbank is just a stone's throw away.

We were curious if anyone has tried to develop these crags before, hence I came to this forum. Why did the forum just stop here? With some hard work this can possibly become a place that is on par with climbing at Bronkies, maybe even better. We have a team of about 5-8 people that are willing to do the hard work.

Can someone please provide me with some info on the crags and why it never continued after Feb 2012?

I'll be starting a new thread soon, explaining our findings of the first visit and the objectives for future visits.
deSouzaFrank
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Re: Bolting a new area

Post by deSouzaFrank »

I've spent a considerable amount of time at this crag. if we are talking about the same cliff that is. Only two concerns here, personally. Nesting black eagles and the fact that I can rub a crimp into the face with my finger at SOME spots, but mostly on the boulders on top of the crag.

Access would not be a headache to sort out as the land is owned by a group that might have gotten the land for real cheap but have absolutely no idea or skills to run the place properly. Fort Merensky is in ruins and so are the other historical buildings and camp facilities.

When Pierre added photos I was mistaken to think they were of another face down stream from campsite that is out side of the Botshabelo property. This one being upstream is however on its property and a lot easier to get to.

let me know if I can help at all in any way. I have about 50 Hilti HSA-R M10x90mm, couple of regulars to cliff good for hauling, home made hand drill, trad and any other gear we might need. All i don't have is a battery operated rotary hammer and the knowledge to say whether the rock is of good enough quality to bolt.

Ps you wanted to know if some one has tried to develop the area before. I have found a number of top anchor bolts but they are very old, or at least looks like they are. majority of them are allen cap screw types??? No idea as to who or when they were put up.
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