Trad climb or Warren's engineered nut placement anchor thingsOld Smelly wrote:As an aside (maybe read wild goose chase) - are we going to consider in the long run that we cannot keep banging in new sets of anchors and chopping the old ones? Is there a sustainable solution? Do we even need to replace top bolts of we can get just the rings to wear and the bolts themselves do not corrode?
Parting shot, not ParthianOld Smelly wrote:And then a Parthian shot -
If you don't top rope through the draws, you are not being very bright.BAbycoat wrote: BUT when you toprope off the top anchors or even abseil off them then they are typically the only thing preventing one from hitting the deck
This is exactly what we have been saying ALL THE TIME. When you use the anchors you fatigue them, therefore we have two top anchors, one of which is hopefully unused and in excellent condition so that it is there to act as a backup in case the other one fails during a lower off. The shockloading in this situation is of NO CONSEQUENCE AS IT IS MUCH MUCH MUCH LESS THAN WOULD BE EXPERIENCED BY ANY OTHER BOLT DURING NORMAL USE.BAbycoat wrote: BUT when you toprope off the top anchors or even abseil off them then they are typically the only thing preventing one from hitting the deck
Just because you have an opinion about the merits of equalized anchor systems does not mean that it is correct to apply your opinion to the placement of bolts on sport route top anchors.