Bolts and hangers

[Rockray143]

Looking for bolts and hangers any suggestions on where I could buy some

[raphaeltube]

City Rock has.

[BrendanSterley]

Hi there,

CityROCK gear shop in Cape Town or JHB, (www.cityrock.co.za) or you can find online at Mountain Mail Order http://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/prof ... red&page=2

[Forket]

Best beta:

Upat for 68mm M10 stud anchors
Vertical World for hangers

[Forket]

[Rockray143]

Its like half price compared to CR

Can't seem to find any info on vertical world web site do you have a contact detail?

[Forket]

Nigel(AT)verticalworld(DOT)co(DOT)za

R25 per hanger

I see MMO has petzl ones at R23. Guess thats better beta.

E

[NatureBoi]

Hi,
Buying the locally made cheaper bolts were the ones that were failing in the Western Cape.
These bolts will not have an alphabetical letter on the head of the bolt.

The only bolts to use are:
a) Fischer FBN II 10/10 A, M10 x 86mm bolts or
b) Hilti M10 HSA-R M10 20/10/-, M10 x 83mm bolts or
c) Suitable glue-in (Also known as ‘P’ Bolts or chemical anchors), supplied by recognised climbing equipment manufacturers.

Instead of doing a lot of additional work, I'm including the latest application form for bolting a sport route in the Cederberg.
I'm not aware of this kind of process anywhere else in SA. The information is comprehensive and overseen by the MCSA Rock subcommittee (Cape Town)
It has in-depth information on how to, procedures, materials, environmental concerns e.t.c.

http://www.climbing.co.za/w/images/d/d1 ... t_2018.pdf

Arm yourself with information. Bolting a route is a responsibility.

Cheers
Cormac

[Gustav]

I see MMO has petzl ones at R23. Guess thats better beta.

E

Those are not Stainless Steel.

Makes me think of the handmade angle-iron hangers that we still happily clip here (in our dry salt-free climate) at the Island, Gaper etc...

[robertbreyer]

Most of our bolting hardware is not on the MMO web site.
We stock the ARF-approved FBN expansion bolts that Cormac references above.
We also import and sell all the Raumer glue-in bolts.
Best to stop by one of our retail shops and talk to us.
Bolting is not something to be done via mail order....
- Robert

[Andy Davies]

Forket why I are promoting the bolts that have been breaking all the time? Didn't you take a huge screamer at The Mine the other day when one of them broke? Those bolts have manufacturing defects. Lest you have forgotten here is a pic of a "healthy" looking bolt and its failure surface:

Gift 2nd bolt exterior.jpg (107.15 KiB) Viewed 8729 times

Gift 2nd bolt fail surfaceSMALL.jpg (75.93 KiB) Viewed 8729 times

[Russell Warren]

Andy are you referring to 68mm Upat M10's?

[Forket]

Andy, I'm quite sure upat sells rated stainlesssteel bolts? I've only bolted with rated bolts but refuse to pay hilti R42 for a bolt any longer.

Posting popped bolts from lines bolted in the 90s??

Im a sport climber. I spend most of my days whipping on bolts. Ive popped an old bolt here and there. I understand the concern for quality.

[BrianG]

Upat = Fischer

[Russell Warren]

Okay let me change my question to Andy. What bolt was he referring to when he says Forket is promoting bad bolts?

[Andy Davies]

Russel I refer to Forket's recommendation "Upat for 68mm M10 stud anchors"
BrianG UPAT does not equal Fischer. UPAT supply locally made UPAT anchors and imported Fischer anchors. All our failures have been on locally manufactured anchors using poor quality stainless steel.
Forket why do you endanger your climbing brothers and sisters so that you can save a few bucks?

[Russell Warren]

Does that mean all 68mm bolts are suspect or do you get ones that are Okay?

[robertbreyer]

Russell, what's your email address. I am in touch with Raymond via email and phone.
I see you are in Durban.
In Durban you should only be using Raumer glue-ins. Moisture and salt air are a lethal combination for all expansion bolts.
http://www.climbing.co.za/anchor-replacement-fund/
- Robert

[BrianG]

Russel I refer to Forket's recommendation "Upat for 68mm M10 stud anchors"
BrianG UPAT does not equal Fischer. UPAT supply locally made UPAT anchors and imported Fischer anchors. All our failures have been on locally manufactured anchors using poor quality stainless steel.
Forket why do you endanger your climbing brothers and sisters so that you can save a few bucks?

Andy, you are right, my mistake. I bought Fischer's from Upat some time ago and associated them as the same. I must be getting old

[Forket]

Im so lost. I only buy rated bolts. Quite sure its fischer, though Ive only bought Hilti, just in need of cheaper. Anyhows, not bolting next to the ocean either, will leave gluins for waterfalls.

Just recommending than you find a cheaper source than City Rock.

And maybe that when bolts are replaced, that the old ones are removed. I see that's not common practice in the cape. It looks appalling.

[justin]

There have been some problems with lower off's of late - see links below:

https://www.theuiaa.org/home/recall-not ... -climbing/

https://www.theuiaa.org/safety-label/wa ... k-anchors/

https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/ ... ower-offs/

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/safety-alert-f ... lower-offs

[justin]

Bad metals

NASA Says Metals Fraud Caused $700 Million Satellite Failure

[robertbreyer]

Too bad Ebert that you are so lost.
Just to bring you up to speed, we sell all bolting hardware at cost. For worthwhile routes we occasionally give it away as they are doing the climbing community a service that we like to support.

- Robert
CityROCK and Mountain Mail Order

[BAbycoat]

“It’s unwise to pay too much, but it’s worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money — that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do.”
- John Ruskind.

[Forket]

Back on topic.

Robert, as you've included yourself in the forum topic, can you please answer below:

What is the cheapest stainless steel rated,
*68mm M10
*110mm M10
*Glue in M10
*Glue in M12
*Anchors

and cheapest
*glue
*10mm bits
*12mm bits

that you can provide via CR or MMO to the public in South Africa?

If we find better rates, then we can bolt/re bolt cheaper, bolt more, climb more, accommodate more climbers and then sell more stuff at your shop, making it a win for all.

Cheaper isnt always better, though when you're using 1000s of bolts, you might aswell look for a better deal.

Ebert Nel

[Marshall1]

Ok these were solid bulk purchases.

Hilti 68mm x M10 SS R21.87 + VAT (2018)
Bits 10mm x 110mm (working length 70mm) <R19.00 + VAT (+-2017)
Hanger R19 can't remember if there was VAT (+-2017)

[Forket]

Hehe Shaun, prices have doubled. Its crazy.

I've only ever bought hilti bolts and have been shocked by the prices of late, hence the interest in this post and the bolt related posts before.

If the upat bolts arent up to standard, apologies for suggesting them. Thought they fischer and my source was credible;)

E

[Hector]

I recently bought 70mm s/s M10 Fischers direct from UPAT for R39.50 each incl VAT. Cheapest I could find, and that was for a box of 50.
Hilti is no longer bringing the bolts we used to use into SA, hence their crazy price increase.

[sakkiejvr]

I bought Fischer bolts from UPAT for R39.50 per bolt. The bolts is stainless steel of the corrosion resistance class III, e.g. A4. Also known as 316 stainless steel. Perfect for bolting inland routes.