Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
marcoplebani
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Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2018 10:14 am
Real Name: Marco Plebani

Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Post by marcoplebani » Wed Oct 30, 2019 9:31 am

Hi all,
Last time I checked (late 2018) the missing hanger had been replaced. As a sidenote (because discussing grades is never a bad idea on a forum) I'd say there's no 23 section on this climb. The slab goes free at about 20/21 (two moves right on the bolt) and the final step (also bolted for aid) goes free at about 21, 22 at a push, or perhaps more appropriately at V2 given that it's basically a boulder problem.
Cheers

Old Smelly
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Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:21 pm

Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Post by Old Smelly » Wed Oct 30, 2019 10:51 am

Grade fight! Grade fight! Come on everyone...there's going to be a grade fight...
Really, its not that bad...I think it's my shoes...

RyanKarate
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Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 8:06 am
Real Name: Ryan Peel

Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Post by RyanKarate » Thu Oct 31, 2019 8:16 am

Climbed it 2 weeks ago - my opinion - 23 at the slab.

Take along an adjustable spanner - there were some loose bolts at the top aid section that could use a tighten (not over tighten).

RyanKarate
Posts: 78
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2016 8:06 am
Real Name: Ryan Peel

Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Post by RyanKarate » Thu Oct 31, 2019 8:19 am

Also pushed off the large loose boulder that was right above the belayer at one of the last pitches.

White X mark is still there just below where it used to be, but there is nothing loose near it anymore.

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Neil
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Real Name: Neil Margetts
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Re: Hanger removed from Long Bolt to Freedom

Post by Neil » Mon Nov 04, 2019 1:09 pm

Hi

I remember reading about the hanger that had been removed back in 2011 and we going there anyway so I replaced it. To keep the clean free ascent I placed the hanger, washer and nut on lead while freeing that section. To make sure I did not receive any aid from pulling on the no 17 spanner, I connected the spanner to the nut on the left so I had to push up to tighten it, not pull down. The grade discrepancy can be resolved by knowing a little beta on the moves involved. I chatted to Gavin R about this and he said he will confirm this when he next climbs the climb.

I you intend to on-sight the climb, skip the paragraph below:

The crux section is just right of what looks like a big thin rock 'plate', if you move about 1m left just before the crux you can reach left to get good side clings pulling right on the other side of this 'plate', the move up involves side pulls on either side of the plate. If you do it this way it is more like 21 not 23, but the bolts are a little right and not in front of you so a small potential swing fall could be involved. The top section is much easier of you are taller and moving more right here helps as well.

You ruined your on-sight didn't you!! :oops:

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