Africa Arete - Post Traumatic Trad Disorder PTTD

Latest South Africa climbing news! Good news - Hard sends, first ascents, onsights, wicked redpoints, competitions, etc. Bad news - accidents, muggings, rockfalls, etc. You can also send it on over to info@climbing.co.za.

Post Reply
SNORT
Posts: 1215
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Africa Arete - Post Traumatic Trad Disorder PTTD

Post by SNORT » Sat Dec 22, 2018 3:57 pm

Yesterday I did Africa Arete on TM with Duncan my son and Julia. Duncan and my average age is close to Julia's. I think the oldest and youngest persons to ever climb the route did so yesterday. 60 and 17. Pretty cool that and I can still stick the Flag high on the last pitch.

And Duncan who is a wanne be boulderer and sport climber and gym junkie cruised the route except for a bit of a whipper when he broke off a hold on the second pitch and took a plummet. He claims to be suffering from PTTD. Post traumatic trad disorder
Africa Arete Dunc  Dec 2018 (1).jpg
Africa Arete Dunc Dec 2018 (1).jpg (130.05 KiB) Viewed 5031 times
Africa Arete Snort doing the flag  Dec 2018 1.jpg
Africa Arete Snort doing the flag Dec 2018 1.jpg (32.31 KiB) Viewed 5031 times
Attachments
IMG_20181221_110737 (2).jpg
IMG_20181221_110737 (2).jpg (93.53 KiB) Viewed 5031 times

Brussel
Posts: 272
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Re: Africa Arete - Post Traumatic Trad Disorder PTTD

Post by Brussel » Sat Dec 22, 2018 10:25 pm

Snort you are a legend and an inspiration
Keep cranking!

SNORT
Posts: 1215
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Africa Arete - Post Traumatic Trad Disorder PTTD

Post by SNORT » Mon Nov 04, 2019 9:56 am

So there was more trad disorder yesterday when Willem broke off the crux starting flake on the second pitch and took a hard plummet that jerked me around despite belaying a couple of metres below the ledge to mitigate the fall factor. He nevertheless did a fine flash! 25+ now. So Africa Arete is now much harder than before and feels bolder but funnily enough less dangerous as the two large dodgy flakes are now gone. WIllem was lucky not to pull the flake into his face and I was smart enough to belay around the corner. I suggest that despite that small fixed nut protecting the second crux where the upper flake broke off one also places a cam in the slot on the left shown in the photo..

I first led this pitch in 2005 or so and the swore to never repeat it but did with WIllem about 2014 and he swore never to repeat it. I have doing it once a year since then but I reckon I am now done with it.

.
Arete missing flake take 2.JPG
Arete missing flake take 2.JPG (106.07 KiB) Viewed 1040 times
Arete pro.JPG
Arete pro.JPG (251.26 KiB) Viewed 1040 times

User avatar
Forket
Posts: 763
Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2009 7:34 pm
Real Name: Everyday Troll

Re: Africa Arete - Post Traumatic Trad Disorder PTTD

Post by Forket » Mon Nov 04, 2019 10:25 am

How do you take a hard plummet and then flash?

SNORT
Posts: 1215
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Africa Arete - Post Traumatic Trad Disorder PTTD

Post by SNORT » Mon Nov 04, 2019 11:07 am

Well you place the gear start climbing and then break off the hold. And fall. As the flake is what you hold on to as you take off and it is now missing you have a whole new take-off and start the pitch from scratch. Its not like the hold was higher up after you start.

User avatar
Forket
Posts: 763
Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2009 7:34 pm
Real Name: Everyday Troll

Re: Africa Arete - Post Traumatic Trad Disorder PTTD

Post by Forket » Mon Nov 04, 2019 11:49 am

Oh. You meant red point then. Flash referring to your first ever attempt at a route, which is not the case as he has already been plummeting through the air.

Semantics aside, good to hear the line still goes in its cleaner state:)

E

Hilton
Posts: 319
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Re: Africa Arete - Post Traumatic Trad Disorder PTTD

Post by Hilton » Mon Nov 04, 2019 1:28 pm

Yesterday was Willem le Roux Day - he was very impressive! Pretty much like the Boks the day before.
Tinie and I were busy 10 - 20 metres to the right and were an involved peanut gallery, but unfortunately without camera.

The backstory starts with someone damaging the big flake 8m up P2 a few weeks back. So Tinie, Charlie Standing and I went up to check out and send. I sent P1 but then on P2 Tinie retreated, adamant that the flake couldn't hold him and that it would be crazy-dangerous to try. We climbed up and around. I lowered Tinie down. He body-weighted the flake and the huge thing came away. We came back a few days later, cleaned and worked the new section, placed a fixed wire, and then sent it. The little wire cannot be placed on lead. It is not possible to get sight of the tiny crack. We felt that P2 was now solid 25 and scary. We put out the word that it needs an onsight.

Yesterday went like this:
Willem led the first pitch in good style. Snort followed clean.
Then Willem set off for the sorta-onsight of the new version P2.
I gave him beta on the two critical wire placements that we've worked out over time. There was always the potential to get really hurt without them. The first wire you place at full stretch with your feet still on the belay stance while leaning out backwards. Then to place the second one you have to commit, cut loose and get onto the wall above, to place the wire. Willem did this then descended to the stance to catch a break. Standard procedure.
Then Willem set off. He pulled up on the big flake 2m up and it snapped. Willem and the rock, about the size of a briefcase, fell together. The top wire held and Willem landed a metre or two below the stance.
Now the take-off for P2 looked just desperate or impossible. Tinie and I despaired.
Willem worked it (he had the rope above, into the two wires) and then with 80 kilos of prime beef working to the max he managed to climb this new start. Tinie and I were amazed and miserable.
Willem got up to what an hour earlier had been the new crux that Tinie and I had sent last week, he gratefully clipped the fixed wire and was very pleased to hear that it is bomber, and then he hung in there for 20 minutes or more, trying to work out this desperate new crux. The endurance was very impressive. He couldn't find a way to not be barn-dooring off the only (desperate) hold. Eventually he committed to a no-return high slap for the tiny divet. Thankfully he latched and didn't have to test the wire with all that beesvleis.
Willem controlled the rest of the endurance pitch for a long and impressive ascent. At the time I asked him how hard - he thought 26 with the new start. And that the new upper crux is solid 25.
Snorty fell off the new start and deployed 'mountaineering tactics', which he continued to deploy through the new upper crux. Then he followed clean, to the top.
Willem and Snort rapped off the chain and headed downhill.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE...

Bloody Tinie could not be stopped from traversing across to his beloved route to restore matters.
We got established in the stance and I just wanted to go home. It all looked horrifying, especially as I couldn't see how one could place the upper wire. I don't love hospital anymore.
On the second or third rotation, Tinie was leaning out and fiddling. Next thing he peels away the big rattly flake that we lean out on!!!
The flake went crashing down into the tree and did a nasty injury to the poor thing.
So now in 4 weeks we're into our fourth version of Africa Arete. Original, post-upper flake, post-lower flake, post-lean out flake.
I'd had it but as Tinie's abused wife I did as I was told and gave it a hard try.
With Tinie shouting abusing words of encouragement I sent that new (and newer) start.
Tinie didn't get it but he came very close and he will get it. He lowered off that little fixed wire 8m up (gulp).

Africa Arete has been through a lot of change in the last month, week and day. Tinie needs to work out what he wants to lock down as the RD for P2 of his great route (that is becoming harder and scarier). There are options.

User avatar
Gustav
Posts: 668
Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2005 3:49 pm
Location: Waterval Boven

Re: Africa Arete - Post Traumatic Trad Disorder PTTD

Post by Gustav » Tue Nov 05, 2019 12:18 pm

Mooi skoot Willem & team! Sorta-onsight? I dispute this.

So, retro-onsight is allowed if you are over 40. Sorta-onsight over 50 ... Willem is not there yet 8)

That settles that.
Gustav
Roc 'n Rope Adventures
Waterval Boven
+27 13 120 4600
climb @t rocrope dot com

Post Reply