Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Latest South Africa climbing news! Good news - Hard sends, first ascents, onsights, wicked redpoints, competitions, etc. Bad news - accidents, muggings, rockfalls, etc. You can also send it on over to info@climbing.co.za.

User avatar
emile
Posts: 813
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:41 am
Real Name: OneDog

Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by emile »

hmmmm. These lazy ass site operators, still no like buttons... :pirat:
like.jpg
like.jpg (6.33 KiB) Viewed 9593 times
User avatar
Q20
Posts: 288
Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 10:57 pm
Real Name: Richard Halsey
Location: Cape Town

Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Q20 »

With a lack of water in the higher Cederberg areas, Wolfberg has 'coincidentally' had 6 new additions to the main wall over the festive season:

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Wolfberg#New_Routes

Big thanks to Julia Wakeling, Marian Penso and Tommy Hardman Bairstow for the missions :thumleft:
One life, one body. Use them well.
User avatar
Q20
Posts: 288
Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 10:57 pm
Real Name: Richard Halsey
Location: Cape Town

Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Q20 »

Recently Gosia has added another fine, hard line to Table Mountain: Daddy Long Legs (27).
The crux pitch is sustained with plenty of airtime potential.
Going at it ground up, it took her very few tries to send. Respect.

The Bust Up area now has a number of good new lines from grade 25 to 29.

check it out!

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Africa_L ... dge_Proper
One life, one body. Use them well.
SNORT
Posts: 1317
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT »

Test of Time received its FFA on Wednesday. It was a team effort with Richard Halsey who had scatalogical issues most of the day. But it goes all free and some additional cleaning makes this a four and half star route.

Squeaks starting the steep strenuous superb 7th pitch (22)
Test of Time with Squeaks Feb 2016 (8) low res.jpg
Test of Time with Squeaks Feb 2016 (8) low res.jpg (93.83 KiB) Viewed 9319 times
Chris F
Posts: 819
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Chris F »

I hope the cleaning is not related to the scatological issues?

Good work!
SNORT
Posts: 1317
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT »

Nah, just a bush or a bit of loose rock here and there - typical YW
hendriks
Posts: 97
Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 10:29 pm

Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by hendriks »

So this snuck in under the radar. From Cutloose: http://www.cutloose.co.za/2016/02/mary- ... l?spref=fb

Mary Poppins has a second ascent. Well done Marijus
SNORT
Posts: 1317
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT »

BMC/MCSA exchange has come to an end. This was a phenomenal trad event that saw a large proportion of South Africa's hardest and highest quality trad routes receiving ascents at Wolfberg, TM, Tafelberg, Yellowwood and Blouberg.

As an example, in just one day Saturday 5 March, every major hard route at Blouberg was climbed free by combined British and South African Climbers. The first two routes have only been on-sighted climbed once in 17 years, Dog of Thunder has never been on-sighted and as far as I know neither has the crux oitch on Tequila Sunrise. The routes included:
Dog Day in Heaven 25
The Dream of White Dogs 26
Dog of Thunder 30+
Tequila Sunrise 25
Blue Moon 25
Eight Miles High 24
Scatterlings 22

As well as some easier routes.

There were no epics and everybody back to camp well before midnight!

This is a standard of climbing that has never occurred in South Africa and the hit list of routes is unlikely to be repeated in the foreseeable future.

The plan is to repeat the exchange in 2 year's time.

Steve McClure, who flashed Double Jeopardy, admitted on Facebook, that South Africa has the best trad climbing in the world.... Yeah!
SNORT
Posts: 1317
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT »

I feel a combination of nostalgia (for when I was younger and stronger) inspiration and humility (not usually my strong point) watching Jimbo Smith float up Outrageous Time onsight at Yellowwood today. Perfect conditions, great climbing and a great day.

At least I managed to work out the second crux which has stymied me to date. Now just gotta cut down on the red wine, (calories) lose a kilo or three and crank the darn thing.

Thanks Jimbo had a great day out.
SNORT
Posts: 1317
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT »

Got a message from my ole buddy Hector who probably did the fourth ascent of Agonising Hands 23? in Cederberg Kloof. He, like others, took a plummet off the top V crux.

It is probably a bit of a Sandbag or rather the direct variation Doggle is (?26). I attempted to repeat Doggle with Clinton M about 5 years ago and Clint flashed it by I failed on it at the time.

This route has probably not been climbed in almost 30 years!

Well done for trying H, you are my hero.
SNORT
Posts: 1317
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT »

The Time Line at Yellowwood saw an almost free ascent by Andy Court, on Saturday 31 October. Andy onsighted the 3rd 24 pitch but the final hard pitch was just too tiring and the grade 25/26 is probably justified.

It is a truly magnificent trad route that is right up there with the best. Not quite as hard as Time Bomb but climbing out to the arete is spectacular and atmospheric. I strongly recommend the route to anyone who is capable of climbing grade 24 or harder.

For us older and slowly but surely lesser mortals it is a very worthwhile undertaking at 22/23 A1. It is easy enough to aid the 5 to 10m of really hard moves on the 4 hard pitches. Most of the climbing is a do-able grade 19 to 21.
Post Reply