Montagu bolts

[justin]

I am compiling a list of suspect bolts in Montagu.
If you know of any routes where the bolts appear to be suspect please respond here or mail me - justin@climbing.co.za or WhatsApp 0826964067

Many thanks,
Justin

Triple Stringer – Super Tubes – Bad Kloof

[micky]

27 at bosch,

I vaguely remember a rusty bolt on Thruster too.

[illona]

Neuromancer, Activist and Cyberpunk rank quite high.

[tygereye]

The 22 at Playground needs top anchors

[TheoGrev]

Chains on Shagadelic at the palace look a bit dodge, extension look fine
As Ilona said Neuromancer needs a re-bolt desperately, one hanger is permo swinging
Delete button/ Voices at worlds apart. chains might need looking at
There was a post a while ago about 27 multi pitch on Cogmans that needs re-bolting

[justin]

Sent in via email
Badkloof:
Wax my gun and have some fun has missing maillons.
First wave has some rusty bolts and some rusty anchors.

Legoland:
Cheapskate student and cleinous hing have some rusty bolts.
Easy does it has a hanger missing at the anchors.

[mik]

The first couple of bolts of Shouting Stage at the Steeple. Such a cool route, but in my opinion a suicide mission in its current state...

[XMod]

Sloth was bolted by me in 1994 using U-pat bolts. They should be ARF'd if not already. Move the top anchors up right above the ledge - or better yet extend the route up a level through the bulge above the small ledge to the alcove above (could even go higher???). There was a loose block just above where you pull onto that ledge which is very tempting to grab onto - this should be chucked off if it is still there.

Against the Grain has no real top anchors - there are anchors in the middle of the wall which I placed simply to get a rope on that wall as the natural gear above was crap. Anchors for Against the Grain should be placed just to the right of the top jug/hueco. This was bolted at the same time as Sloth and may also have shitty bolts.

The early routes at the playground probably also have U-Pat bolts.

Check Stealin' at Uriah Heep - this was also one of the very early routes.

I don't know what has been rebolted so forgive me if these routes have already seen attention.

The crux bolt on Delete Button (in the bulge) was placed in hollow rock (tap it with a biner and you will hear) this should be repositioned with a glue-in.

[illona]

The easier climbs at Uriah - Firefly (19) and Love Machine (21). Possibly the 23 there as well. Didn't have a good look.
Stealin' was actually okay.

[XMod]

Ja Stealin' might be ok, need to just check the type of bolts that are in it, if they're Hilti then it's all good. If U-pat; not so much regardless of appearance.

[Stephen]

Sloth: Two for the Show’s first set of anchors look rather rusty

[illona]

Triple Stinger at Supertubes.

[illona]

The crux bolt of Burning Chrome is looking pretty rusted as well.

[LucH]

Anchors on Quasimodo at the steeple could do with tightening

[hendriks]

Anchors on Quasimodo at the steeple could do with tightening

Buy yourself a spanner (17 I think) and next time you're out there tighten them. If you're a regular sport climber having a spanner in your kit to tighten the odd nut goes a long way in maintaining routes and giving back to the community and it takes only a few seconds, maybe a minute out of your climbing day.

[justin]

Thanks for the feedback. I put those anchors in and the nuts being loose is most likely due to me not wanting to overtighten (over crank, thereby damaging the bolt).

If you do tighen bolts, please don't over crank them.

I'm often at The Steeple and will take a spanner up next time

[GClamp]

I replaced the bina at the anchor of rolling stone. It was an old aluminum bina that had seen better days. Replaced it with a new steel screw gate.

The old chain actually needs to be removed from the top bolt and rather a hanger with an abseil ring added. Will look at replacing it next time I am there.