Swan Lake beta please

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
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drewolden2007
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Aug 12, 2020 1:16 pm
Real Name: Drew Olden
Location: Cape Town
Contact:

Swan Lake beta please

Post by drewolden2007 »

It's the lip that stumps me! I started trying it with the usual "knee bar, reach up" way. But my leg is too short to use the foot placement on that small corner, and too long to wedge into the crack, and I'm way too short (155cm). I've tried loads of other ways, each sillier than the last. I've even tried going feet first!
Can you help me out? I know there're countless ways to do the move.
I also find the gaston crux easy, so it's just the lip...
wesleywt
Posts: 84
Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2010 4:04 pm
Real Name: Wesley Williams

Re: Swan Lake beta please

Post by wesleywt »

Where I put my foot for the kneebar doesn't matter. Below the kneebar block there is a seam in the rock. I place my left foot on that seam then squeeze with my knee and thighs on the block. That keeps me on to reach up to the sloper which is not as far as the little block hold. With the squeeze you can hold the sloper hold pretty easily.
Garron
Posts: 61
Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2012 3:50 pm

Re: Swan Lake beta please

Post by Garron »

At 155cm you are going to have to reach into the crack (apologies if the sloper is lower I'm not sure which sloper is being referred to).

The kneebar does not work for me either however put your right foot in the same place as for the kneebar and determine where the best place is to put your right hand then reach up with your left hand into the crack. There is a right hand jam in the rail however this is a bit trickier to setup so I think does not make it easier, however may be worth a try in your case.

A figure 4 can also be done to reach into the crack however I think this is more difficult.

I really like the sound of wesleywt beta I want to try this next time.
wesleywt
Posts: 84
Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2010 4:04 pm
Real Name: Wesley Williams

Re: Swan Lake beta please

Post by wesleywt »

Yep, I have done the move many times and refined the kneebar to that beta. I am 1.63 and can reach higher than many tall people in that kneebar.
drewolden2007
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Aug 12, 2020 1:16 pm
Real Name: Drew Olden
Location: Cape Town
Contact:

Re: Swan Lake beta please

Post by drewolden2007 »

Cool, thanks. Its beginning to make more sense now. A I'm surprised I didn't try the figure of 4 move before a feet first :lol:
Please keep the tips coming,
Drew :alien:
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