Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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thewildwithin
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Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by thewildwithin »

Yesterday we had a family day at Silvermine Lower, with multiple youths belayed on a variety of the friendlier lines at lower crag.

In the free moments a few of us got on "wings of desire - 26/7B"
I cant help thinking that its such a quality boulder route and that if it was at any other crag it would see way more traffic.
Reason being is the popularity of bouldering noted by the rise of bouldering gyms, comps and events.
This route is an excellent application of skill and commitment, alas on a rope and allowing a safe catch if one where to peel off.

To make the route a little friendlier I chopped the rusted 6mm maillon that's been on the bolts under the roof since the beginning of time and put a fresh new 8mm in place. The idea with this is if someone cant make the roof section they can go in direct, rethread and lower off.

I don't necessarily want to do this for myself as I'm an average joe climber (I can do the moves but I'm yet to piece them all together) but watching the youths on this climb was incredible and what would make this even friendlier would be perhaps to put one more bolt above the roof allowing a midway clip and then replace the lower offs.
I do believe these date back to 2005 when Malcolm Gowens set the route? (please feel free to update me)

I personally would be happy to sponsor the lower offs and extra bolt and this is a call out to anyone at the ARF and bolting crews to come assist one morning to get the job done?

There are so many strong youths out there who would absolutely crush this climb, and it would be super cool to make it a bit more accessible and see them translating their indoor prowess outdoors.

Aidan


Thomasclimbs
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Re: Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by Thomasclimbs »

It was a fun day yesterday.

I totally agree! The anchors were looking a little sketchy and another bolt above the lip would be very nice. Some of the bolts in the roof, however could easily be slightly rotated to make placing draws easier.

Thomas
thewildwithin
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Re: Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by thewildwithin »

thanks Thomas, was cool to see you on this dude.

we could add the bolt rotation to the list.
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NatureBoi
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Re: Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by NatureBoi »

Hi,
Chat to Malcolm first!
I'm sure he will do it. It is his route and he is still an active climber and bolter.

Cheers,
Cormac
thewildwithin
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Re: Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by thewildwithin »

Good thinking Sir.

I will do so.
drewolden2007
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Re: Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by drewolden2007 »

The bolts not going to break, it would get messy if people just put bolts in where ever they can't do a move.
wildx
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Re: Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by wildx »

Another bad idea is placing maillons on bolts... Maillons creates problems with clipping quickdraws and how quickdraws take force from falls...
Better just leave a bail biner which I can use in my trad rack.
thewildwithin
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Re: Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by thewildwithin »

On Sunday (yesterday) Cormac and I started to re-bolt this route, limited time meant we where not able to finish the process, I will be sure to update once it the route is complete. The new glue ins look great and the bomber new lower off anchors really inspire confidence next to the old rusted ons.

Update to follow. Thanks to Cormac for your time, learnt a lot from you here.
thewildwithin
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Re: Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by thewildwithin »

drewolden2007 wrote: Tue Apr 19, 2022 10:40 am
The bolts not going to break, it would get messy if people just put bolts in where ever they can't do a move.
How do you know they wont break Drew, can you tell the future :cyclops: ? Didnt a bolt pop on you at the mine before?
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XMod
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Re: Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by XMod »

Glue ins are cool but were they really necessary on this line? What bolts were used originally, Hilti or Fischer would not need replacement. 9 times out ten if there is a patch of rust it is coming from the hanger, not the bolt.

Note that it is virtually impossible to clip a bolt around the lip until AFTER you have done the crux, as the rest of the climbing is pretty easy, it seems a bit pointless to place another.
thewildwithin
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Re: Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by thewildwithin »

The line was bolted 17 years ago, who knows how the bolts are faring internally, its mere speculation that they are rusted or not rusted.
Other vertical lines may be more forgiving as the ground fall would still be prevented by another bolt but this line doesn't afford one that luxury, so don't you agree its better to be proactive here?

Note we have not added another bolt after the lip as were giving this route careful thought.
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XMod
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Re: Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by XMod »

Hey I think its cool that you are updating gear. Cormac knows what each of the bolt stud heads look like on the various mechanical bolts.

No point facing a ground fall although I don't remember feeling like I was going to crater when I did it, anyway better safe than sorry, if you guys think it needs another go for it.

If you haven't placed the crux bolt yet that is the one that needs the most thought - ideal placement would be directly above your waist loop as you are in the middle of the move provided it can be clipped reasonable easily and preferably so that you can reach the next good hold whilst pulling on draw. That way you can work the moves easily. Obviously this is an ideal scenario - often one can only approximate this - HOWEVER the harder the moves the more critical the precise placement of the bolt becomes even 5cm out can often ruin the workability of the route so please figure it out very carefully as that route is not a gimme. Crux has quite a contorted move, Id love to see how Cormac will fit into that one!! LOL
thewildwithin
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Re: Wings Of Desire - Silvermine Lower

Post by thewildwithin »

thanks Greg, spent a while looking at the best placement of the crux bolt and placed it appropriately. Go give it a burn and let us know your thoughts.

Just need to chop all the old bolts off and were done!
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