Exposure in F Major

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RyanCT
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Exposure in F Major

Post by RyanCT »

Hi All,

I'm planning to do Exposure in F sometime in the next month - trying to gather as much info as possible!

I've had a look at the MCSA journal articles, and read through this thread viewtopic.php?f=23&t=7721 which has a lot of good advice - however the link to the compiled topo mentioned in the thread is no longer working:

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/Expo ... f_Trad.pdf

Does anyone have a copy of this document that they could send me? That would be great. Any other tips would also definitely be appreciated.

Thanks!
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by ClimbZA »

I've made it available for download here: http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-af ... r-trad-17/
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by RyanCT »

Thanks!
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NatureBoi
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by NatureBoi »

Hmmm, do 'No MOre Bells' instead. Safer, way better quality climbing and easier route finding. Walk in might be a little longer but path more obvious

http://www.climb.co.za/2010/04/climbing ... ss-pieces/
http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/No_More_Bells

Cheers
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by SNORT »

Exposure is the best, steepest most adventurous route of its kind and a test piece at its grade in South Africa. No More Bells is a "crag" route and not at all comparable. Exposure is a must do. There are hundreds of routes like No More Bells in the Cederberg and elsewhere/
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by Brussel »

I think Snort might be going a bit overboard a bit :roll:

Exposure is a fantastic route, huge exposure, good climbing and worth doing once a year!

No more bells is one of the best routes at its grade, simply beautiful. "hundreds of routes" I don't know Snort, I climb a lot in that grade and I've not found much that is better. BUT it is a long day out for a route of that nature.

Both excellent and worth doing but different.
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by SNORT »

The point is that they are not comparable.

No more bells is not what i would call an adventurous route. If you can climb the grade, you are likely to walk it. It is predictable. if you have climbed a few 19's on TM, or even Jacobs Ladder on trad you will do it, weather permitting, on your first attempt. It has 4 short pitches. Good gear etc. And there are many routes like that at Tafelberg and Wolfberg.

Exposure is a full on adventure and quite unique. I have climbed it twice 30 years apart and look forward to doing it again soon. There is nothing like it that I know of except in the Dolomites. It is steep and intimidating at the grade. It has shooed off many parties. It has resulted in one death. Like Yellowwood amphitheater, you gotta be climbing competently at least a grade harder than the stated grade to have a reasonable chance of success. The walk off is a mission too.

Let me put it this way. If you can climb Jacobs ladder and that is your limit you can probably do No More Bells but probably not Exposure which is a lesser grade in the book.

Exposure, for it's grade, is not for sissies.
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by Brussel »

Snort I agree that no more bells is not adventurous at all, albeit it an outstanding route. It has good gear and has good rock and no awkward climbing.

Exposure is harder than the grade suggests. I seem to recall a grade 15 pitch about 2/3rds up the route that always feels harder than the crux. And the route is loooong. I have a video somewhere of us trundling a small boulder off one of the top stances and it falls for a clean 12 seconds.

I cant believe you've only been twice. It's worth making an annual pilgrimage :) I was hoping to get up there again this summer, but my Monday partner is recovering from a broken collarbone, hopefully I can get him fit enough to get up there before winter kicks in.
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by SNORT »

Hey just across the valley (YW) is some of the MOST adventurous routes in SA, the world, the universe! And they appeal to me more! I always have a project going there so it attracts me like a magnet. Meanwhile, just back from Tafelberg where we climbed 13 pitches all as good as anything on No More Bells. Did "Baboon Speak" and "Drool Rockworm". And then we did two new 5 star routes which we named "Sly and Slinky" and "Mountain Music" Pristine. Am quite sure that Sly and Slinky is new but Mountain Music is so obvious a line that I need to verify it is new. There was however no cairn at the base and seemed unclimbed.

Busy with my day job but will post em soon.
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by Brussel »

yeah I'd love to get to Yellowwood it is one unbelievable looking place, I've only been up to climb no more bells - just finding partners is not always easy: big walk-in, a big wall and hard climbing.

What grades are the routes you opened @ Tafelberg?
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by SNORT »

Will post soon. Mountain Music 21

Sly and Slinky is a cunning tour through the most unlikely seeming overhangs grade 21. Spectacular Then up a superb grade 20 face and then there is a short aid section that needs to be freed. It is just left of Baboon Speak.
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by henkg »

I agree with Snort. Those are different kinda routes. Exposure is type two fun, you enjoy it only afterwards when the satisfaction of having done it sets in. It is something which should be done by all at least once, but not the kinda thing I would repeat annually.

The chess pieces (No more bell's crag) has rock comparable to Fountain Ledge, but with a looong walk in (and I think scope for more new lines). Exposure has less clean rock and a most shitty walk off.
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by amm »

Microbe, Woody and I had a good but looong day out on Exposure in F Major on Saturday.
We found the walk off description of 'Go down ramps and ledges in a north-westerly direction' rather vague.
After topping out we walked towards the north west and after a short time dropped down slightly to a nek before traversing along the side of the mountain in what we thought was still a north west direction. Eventually we cut back rightwards and ended up doing an awful, bushy, and loose stoney descent down a valley to the high lying vlakte. There were no signs of any ramps.
Anyone have some better beta for the initial part of the walk off ?
Also we most probably went off route on pitch 9 which was way harder than the supposed crux.
•P9: 11m “F2”. Climb up diagonally right until it is possible to move up to the left on spaced footholds and cupholds in the face. Continue to a good stance. This pitch is steep and sustained and should not be underestimated, especially in cold weather. Many climbers who walked the crux have come to grief here.
I would think that this pitch is only F2 if done in a very specific way.
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by SNORT »

The walk-off is kak. The route deserves an abseil descent which I would consider fashioning at some stage using threads only. But dunno if I will ever get back there. Too much to climb elsewhere.
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by Tristan »

What Snort said (they are not comparable)

Again, what Snort said - Exposure (and hence Thunderbolt et al) would be awesome with rapp-to-the-start options in situ but, Snort, I'm curious as to why you'd "thread only" for in situ? it's probably 3 or 4 straight 60m raps and the only time one fully trusts gear (rappelling). Are Pegs also excluded?
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by SNORT »

Exposure crag like Sandstone cliffs in general lends itself to sling and thread points. i would not construct the rap down the route but further left to avoid having to reverse the crappy approach traverse.

In my view this is by far the most user friendly, safe, elegant and easily maintainable system of constructing lower offs. There is no damage to the rock and no "expensive" and dodgy fixed gear that wears. I have personally pulled a peg and a bolt from a lower off before and simply do not trust either. I know one person who was killed when a peg failed on rappel.

If one uses fixed gear then aluminium threaded nuts and hexes are fine but nothing else. When doing this kind of thing I usually have one with me in case I cannot find a sling point or thread. If I use a sling point I make a plant to prevent the sling from blowing off. In that way threads win hands down.
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by ant »

The route that has worked well for me traverses around the front of the summit cone, and then stays not too far (300m?) from the escarpment edge. That side of the mountain corresponds with the angle-of-fold of the rock, so you come down slabs at about a 40 deg angle.

You aim for a point about 600m back from the V-nek, on the vlakte.

One then descends the V-nek and down the gulley for quite some way, breaking out left a bit after the bigger scree slope on the right. (Further than it seems it should be at the time) Breaking out makes the going quite pleasant, save for the last 800m to the road, the line of which can be better scoped out if you hit it with daylight to spare.
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by Ray »

Adele, Pitch 9 is probably the crux of the route. Have done it three times and this pitch gets easier each time though. A bit of a sequence and some hidden hand-grips higher up. I find it harder especially because the gear is thin and difficult to place. I also recall a loose block that makes it tricky.

The 17/F3 below is more enjoyable and easier to read.
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by TheBulgarian »

Some fresh approach & descent beta for Exposure in Du Toits Kloof.

Myself & Andy Court recently climbed the route with relative ease & smooth sailing somehow landed up with a heap of great info on the day prior by chance, I bumped into Charlie Standing at Drifters, Ant Hall at rescue training, happened to be chatting to Squeeks online that eve & Andy even got some tips from Hilton the night before we departed.

Weather: Make sure its not going to be scorcher of a day it will be a hot walk up & the sun is on the south facing Esposure line from sunrise till midday, this is a guaranteed energy drainer & will require excessive water to be carried. Overcast days are perfect or moderate temperatures up to 25.

Water: (We drank 1L on the drive there and carried '3L each' ( Ideally 2L water 1L sugary juice) to the base. (which turned out to much for an overcast day better more than less))

Time & Approach: (Summer) time 4am departure from Cape Town. Park at Trout farm by 4:50.- Walk 2kms along side of highway towards the tunnel to cross the bridge going over the Molenaars river. 5:15 starting to get light. -

Once you have crossed the bridge start to look up towards the Molenaars massif, you will spot an obvious grey scree patch where the green slope meets the rock bands quite central of the massif this is your target. (If you are unsure of which scree patch there is a green triangle above it which is a grassy ledge.)

Find a faint clearing in the protea bushes and aim directly for the scree patch,(Barbed wire fence which is fairly easy to get over.) Try avoid the thicker bush & navigate along the faint ridges of the foothills, if your lucky you will find a faint path which helps but does runout eventually.

Go directly up the scree slope, (watch out for the kinky baboons, they got excited & started getting saucy on our arrival. No Shame!) closer to the top of it go around protea on the left, aiming for the break & green strip, go up right on the green strip until you reach the clean rock band. Traverse hard right, below the band & crossing below & past the waterfall face. (Take note of the waterfall face on the approach to the scree slope.)

20m-30m Passed the waterfall Turn up & left when there is a decent break in the rock band to gain the higher green strip. Looking directly into the gully which located right of Exposures line. Venture up this green strip until you reach the base of the climb. 1.5hrs/2hrs from the bridge.

Descent: At the top of exposure there is a series of loose scrambles & false summits. After approximately 80m/90m of scrambling you will arrive at the first very obvious ledge. This is now known as the 'Ant Hall' walk off ledge. Lookout for 'large cairn' at the point where one turns the corner towards the decent gully (to the left, facing the mountain) Follow this contour to skip a butt load of unnecessary loose dangerous scrambling. The contour is narrow and 'quite exposed' :wink: along the contour there is a short slopey section to regain the better line take care. (Very spicy when wet.) Hugging the right of the mountain, eventually you will gain the descent ridge which runs down the back of the mountain looking towards Paarl. Follow this downwards towards the lowers plateau behind behind the mountain you will soon see the mouth of the descent gully down below on the left. It takes about 30/45min to get to the mouth of the descent gully from the large 'Ant Hall' traverse cairn.

(Descent Gully)At the first obvious steep gully, bum slide on long grass for about 120m, keep safe following distance from your partners as to not kick a rock to their head, continue down the gully and take care over the kloofing style scrambles which you will encounter, these are large steep boulders take careful time over them.

Navigating through the indigenous forests, you will need to take note of when the steep walls open up. Keep to the left of the gully as much as possible as the clearing allows, when you can see that you can gain the fynbos gradual slopes about two thirds of the way down the gully. (This fynbos slope begins at the end of the steep rock bands of the mountain.)

At this point cut out of the gully sharp left. Rewarded with stunning views of the massif and also can navigate the off trail fynbos planning your line of least resistance through the protea fields (dark green) which are down below. Remember there is a fence with barbed wire before the road so try to navigate carefully over it. (Avoid the light green when choosing your line) Aiming for the tunnel side of the bridge, when choosing your line. Walk along the road back to car- 20min.

It is mandatory to have a ice cold Castle Lager Draft when you reach the car.
Pow pow! Have a super adventure out there!
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by joshs »

An old thread, but I was wondering if the topo is available again somewhere? The previous links in this thread (and on the wiki) appear not to be working again. Much appreciated if someone has a copy/link :)
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by Brussel »

dont forget there is now an abseil line. Take some extra tat to bulk up some of the anchors
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by justin »

joshs wrote: Thu Sep 17, 2020 2:01 pm An old thread, but I was wondering if the topo is available again somewhere? The previous links in this thread (and on the wiki) appear not to be working again. Much appreciated if someone has a copy/link :)
RD - http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Exposure

Getting down via abseil

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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by XMod »

Here again I find Snort talking complete k@k! Don't drink and post bru - seriously!

No More Bells is an absolute classic with some of the best crack climbing I have ever been on, there are very few routes that even vaguely compare in quality. It is also most decidedly NOT a walk in the park!!! There are some extremely run-out sections that require a very cool head to complete, a fall is simply unthinkable. I can safely say that it is the most terrified I have ever been on a route and one of the major reasons I swore off trad climbing!

Go and do it but only if you are very solid at the (understated) grade - there are one or two moves that are early twenties (not 19!) in grade, One other vital tip is learn to tie an overhand not in a sling one handed (or better yet pre-tie them before leaving the ground - see pic). Placing a slip knot tied sling like this over the chickenheads on the first pitch and pulling it tight, will be a MILLION times more secure than simply draping the sling around them a couple of times - the tops are all eroded and sloping, I had literally ALL my slings fall off on this pitch and found myself staring down 40m of completely unconnected rope!! :shock: :shock: then facing a cruxy bit with the first piece of mechanical gear after the moves. This however was not even the terrifying bit, probably the worst was belaying watching the rope inch painfully slowly out without the leader pulling up for a clip for a very long time (when this happens you just know things are getting serious up top).

A classic route of the highest caliber - just take care - you have been warned!
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Re: Exposure in F Major

Post by champ »

January/February 2024 update.

Weather: We climbed in 30 degree (predicted) weather, and it was fine. If you start climbing around 07h30 the first three pitches will have sun, but it moves around and puts you in shade soon after.

Timing: Drove past Century City at 04h30, started walking at 05h15 from the lodge, started climbing 07h30.

Water: Drink a litre in the car, carry 3 litres, leave a litre in the car for after (or go to the lodge for beers).

Pitch linking:
p1 - p3: easy link
p4 - half of p6: some rope drag, and feels like we did a harder variation of p5, going straight up instead of more right. Does put you on a nice roomy stance though
p6 - p7: easy link, can probably link p8 too
p8 - 10
p11 - p12
p13 - some of the p14 scramble
p14

p9 "crux" pitch:
I personally found if you climb it till the peg is at head height on your right side, then move slightly left and look for a jug above your head maybe 50cm more to the left makes it what feels more like 15/16, and not the sandbag that other people say. But who knows, I was following that pitch.

Approach:
See .gpx for a reasonable walk in attached.

There are two shortcuts out of the lodge, marked on the screenshot.

We found a no thorn way to the river, see the other screenshot. You have to duck under an improbable bush to get from the road to the river, but it is very easy once you commit. At the current water level this was also a way to get over the river on stepping stones.
Attachments
lodge shortcut.jpg
river crossing.jpg
Exposure approach.gpx.zip
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