Kleinmond

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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Rockray143
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed May 16, 2018 7:21 pm
Real Name: Raymond
Location:

Kleinmond

Post by Rockray143 »

Looking for the route names and grades for the two routes to the left of Palmiet Arete, can't seem to find it on any of the guides
friend1.0
Posts: 31
Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 11:01 am
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Re: Kleinmond

Post by friend1.0 »

Hi Rockray143

Those were bolted by Etienne Pietersen & co in December. We happened to run into him there in December and he sent us the RD for all the new routes they’ve developed. You’ll see that they’ve added a bunch of routes at Middle Tier as well as at the Arete area and Run Away wall. They’ve also developed two new crags across the valley on the way to Pitufa/Box Wallah (as one looks out from Zucchini wall past Winston) which they've named the Lockdown Area and the Prow (two obvious walls – quite amazing that these had not been developed earlier).

These are all great additions. Big thanks to Etienne & co for the effort!

New RD
All routes listed L to R

Middle Tier
L of Palmiet Arete
Kerri the kadingkidufus 14 6B K. Bailey
Princess Pookiechoo 16 5B E. Pietersen

Arete area
R of Lo Spigolo
Pleasure Zone 16 6B top S. Miller
R of Neanderslob
Who killed Kenny 15 6B K. Bailey
Hug me like Elmyra 13 4B E. Pietersen

Run away area
R of now you see me now you don’t
Black Monday 15 6B S. MIller

Lockdown area
Cracks in the regulations 17 7B top N. Knos & K. Meyer
My Corona 16 7B top N. Knos & K. Meyer
Pandemic 17 6B top S. Miller
Crack cures COVID 15 7 B top E. Pietersen
10 bucks a smoke 22 7B top J. Ruger

The Prow
Apocalypse Now 17 5B top S. Miller
Digital Alchemy 17 6B top S. Miller
Muppet 16 6B top E. Pietersen

*One thing to note: these have all been bolted using standard expansion bolts and not the stainless steel glue-ins which I understand to be the new preferred method at Kleinmond due to the crag’s proximity to the sea.
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NatureBoi
Posts: 443
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:23 am
Real Name: Cormac Tooze
Location: Cape Town

Re: Kleinmond

Post by NatureBoi »

Hi U guys should load the info to https://www.thecrag.com/

Easy to use and totally free.

The best site around for topo's with a lot of detail.

Cheers,
Cormac
miketfowen
Posts: 22
Joined: Fri Jun 12, 2015 9:14 am
Real Name: Michael Owen
Location:

Re: Kleinmond

Post by miketfowen »

Anyone have some info on the route immediately right of Stormtroopers at Middle Tier?
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Nic Le Maitre
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Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Location: Stellenbosch

Re: Kleinmond

Post by Nic Le Maitre »

friend1.0 wrote: Thu Mar 25, 2021 4:12 pm
*One thing to note: these have all been bolted using standard expansion bolts and not the stainless steel glue-ins which I understand to be the new preferred method at Kleinmond due to the crag’s proximity to the sea.
Glue ins are the standard in the Cape, generally.

And this is why we have the Bolting Guide and the ARF. The ARF would probably have donated in full or in part the anchors if they'd asked.

It was precisely this type of expansion bolt, that led to the start of the ARF and the Bolting Guide, when they began to fail. And it was at Kleinmond that the bolt failures happened.
Happy climbing
Nic
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