Let everyone know about any suspect/dodgy/misplaced bolts to be renewed or avoided.
Miyagi
Posts: 5 Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2013 6:38 pm
Real Name: Ryan de Jager
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by Miyagi » Mon Feb 01, 2016 9:26 am
A friendly heads up that the 4th bolt on Mangled Metal at the Scoop in Montagu failed.
Not 100% of the cause but it looks badly corroded, the bolts are old and they seem to be different metals.
Either way be careful
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Andy Davies
Posts: 343 Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 12:37 pm
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by Andy Davies » Mon Feb 01, 2016 1:15 pm
Thanks for the heads-up and nice pics. As usual, the bolt is generally in good condition except for the corroded failure surface. I am 99.99% sure its one of those poor quality local bolts that has sulphur stringers which results in severe localised corrosion. Only use Fisher or Hilti bolts if you want to prevent this kind of thing happening.
Andy Davies
for MCSA Anchor Replacement Fund
justin
Posts: 4038 Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Cape Town/Montagu
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by justin » Mon Feb 01, 2016 2:21 pm
Thanks Ryan.
What were the circumstances around the failure, which number bolt is this, did someone get a big surprise when the anchor failed?
The bolts are only 20 years old. Both 'Rock Cleavage' and 'Mangled Metal' will need to be re-bolted.
Whoever supplied / installed the gear went cheap!
With the metal so soft, I wonder if the old bolt studs can be drilled out / removed!?
justin@climbing.co.za
Rock Climbing Guide/Instructor.
Cell/WA: +27 72 676 9326
Justin Lawson
micky
Posts: 225 Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 10:03 am
Location: Cape Town
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by micky » Mon Feb 01, 2016 3:05 pm
whats the vibe for rebolting in montagu? glue-ins or because the rock is like metal and its not near the ocean is it ok to replace with expansion bolts?
Andy Davies
Posts: 343 Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 12:37 pm
Location:
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by Andy Davies » Mon Feb 01, 2016 4:25 pm
Spot on Micky. The bolts break because they are poor quality so no need to go the glue in route. The rock is so hard I have regularly broken drill bits.
AndyDavies
Miyagi
Posts: 5 Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2013 6:38 pm
Real Name: Ryan de Jager
Location:
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by Miyagi » Mon Feb 01, 2016 5:28 pm
Thanks guys interesting info!
Yeah guess they where on a budget, looks like they went down to the local hardware-store...
It's the forth bolt.
I was luckily above when I noticed the nut was lose, I tried to tighten it. It turned twice and then fell out
....
Chris F
Posts: 840 Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
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by Chris F » Mon Feb 01, 2016 5:35 pm
Pair of brown stained trousers now in the For Sale section?
justin
Posts: 4038 Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Cape Town/Montagu
Contact:
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by justin » Mon Feb 01, 2016 7:42 pm
Andy Davies wrote: The rock is so hard I have regularly broken drill bits.
We're going to have a word about the quality of your drill bits Andy
Miyagi wrote: I was luckily above when I noticed the nut was lose, I tried to tighten it. It turned twice and then fell out
....
F@*# me
justin@climbing.co.za
Rock Climbing Guide/Instructor.
Cell/WA: +27 72 676 9326
Justin Lawson
Nic Le Maitre
Posts: 1382 Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Location: Stellenbosch
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by Nic Le Maitre » Mon Feb 01, 2016 7:51 pm
Might be worthwhile dissolving them with a solution of Alum. It probably wont touch the rock. Maybe test it first though...
Happy climbing
Nic
GClamp
Posts: 135 Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2013 7:23 pm
Real Name: Grant L
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by GClamp » Wed Dec 11, 2024 3:48 pm
Were these two routes ever rebolted? or still the old bolts?