Adam Ondra #77: Sandstone / Extremely Scary Bolting
In the northwest of Czechia the bolting ethics allow for ground up bolting only.
Aug 4, 2020
2 Comments
News
Safety Alert about Fixe Lower offs
The DAV (German Alpine Club) have issued a safety alert for lower-off units from manufacturer Fixe.
May 29, 2019
1 Comment
Articles
Montagu Crag Maintenance
Montagu is one of the sport climbing meccas in South Africa. Recently a devastating fire swept through the mountains surrounding the town, seriously affecting the vegetation and bases of quite a few of the rock walls that boast many of the climbs that Montagu is famous for.
Jul 22, 2018
No Comments
News
Bad Bolt Warning for Hogsback Area
An accident recently took place at Hogsback where a climber was injured after a bolt failed.
May 18, 2018
4 Comments
News
Removable Anchor from Petzl
The COEUR PULSE is a 12 mm removable anchor made of stainless steel
Feb 8, 2017
3 Comments
Articles
Bolt Failure – As I saw the ground rushing up fast towards me, I thought I was going to die …..
Bolt Failure – As I saw the ground rushing up fast towards me, I thought I was going to die …..
Jan 6, 2017
9 Comments
Articles
Bolt Replacement Up North
So far in 2015 the MCSA JHB & Magalies Sections & Boven Fund have spent a combined R15,250 on hardware for equipping and bolt replacement.
Jul 22, 2015
No Comments
Articles
Bolt Wars
A documentary about conflict, death, and community in the most popular park in the country – Bolt Wars.
Jul 3, 2015
No Comments
News
Bolt Failed, Resulting in Death
It appears that Sederstrom was stick clipping his way up the climb, going from bolt to bolt, unclipping the bolt below him as he went, when the third bolt failed.
May 29, 2015
No Comments
Articles
Houdenbek Bolts
The bolt in question was the first bolt of ‘Get Some’ (18) – I was leading and saw it was loose so gave it a tug and it just popped out.
May 25, 2015
48 Comments
News
Should We Stop using Stainless Steel Bolts in Favour of Titanium Bolts?
Sheffield’s Titanium bolt guru, Martin Roberts, thinks Stainless Steel bolts should become a thing of the past; not just in super corrosive tropical environments like Thailand, but also in the UK.
Jun 20, 2014
5 Comments
Articles
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
Lab test Over the last 14 months I’ve collected enough carabiners used as lower-offs at belays to make a sound statistical analysis with the aim of drawing some conclusions about their breaking strengths.
May 12, 2013
5 Comments
Articles
Bolt issue on Kalymnos
As we anticipated for years, they have Stress Corrosion Cracking (SCC) of their stainless steel bolts, just as Cayman Brac and Thailand used to have.
May 2, 2013
58 Comments
Articles
Kleinmond Rock Rally 2012 Report
The festival had about 1500 participants, creating the largest party I have ever seen after any Rally. There were kayakers sliding down the stretch tent roof, rider sliding down a long line of couches and pole climbers/dancers doing their thing.
Aug 23, 2012
3 Comments
Update: ARF at Lower Silvermine
Andy Davies has informed us that the 610 shiny new glue-in bolts have arrived for ARF phase II.
Jul 5, 2012
4 Comments
Sanddrif Crag – Wolfberg
Sanddrif Crag is one of the better sport crags in the Western Cape. Please do not do anything to jeopardise access.
Mar 5, 2012
13 Comments
Articles
Permanent Protection – Bolting Basic Overview
Good safe bolting requires training & experience. This is a overview, not a training manual. Find someone who has bolted some good routes to show you the finer points of bolting.
Jan 20, 2012
8 Comments
Route #1 at Farside – Rebolted
In conjunction with the Montagu Bolting Fund: Route #1 was re-bolted by Micky Wiswedel (who paid for all the bolts) and Justin Lawson
Nov 30, 2011
3 Comments
UIAA’s statement regarding bolt failure
There have been bolts exposed to humid, sea air and which carry h the UIAA stamp on them, which have corroded so badly that they have simply fallen off under their own weight.
Nov 15, 2011
1 Comment
News
Montagu Update: New Anchors on Gospel Express and Quasimodo
The Bolting Fund is picking up momentum in the way of funding and we are looking to replace more anchors and lower off’s at the Steeple and Farside Crags.
Nov 1, 2011
12 Comments
MCSA response to Table Mountain Bolts
Official response from the Mountain Club of South Africa regarding the bolts that were recently installed on Table Mountain.
Oct 24, 2011
2 Comments
Articles
Quasimodo Bolt Corrosion Investigation
If you’re going to equip a route, do it for life and buy good quality equipment and avoid a Bolt Corrosion Investigation!
Oct 4, 2011
8 Comments
Bolting / New Routes in Montagu
To avoid any further altercations with land owners and incorrect equipment being used, The Montagu Mountain Committee (who are responsible for the Montagu Reserve) have asked for applications to be submitted before a new route is bolted.
Sep 21, 2010
No Comments
Gear
Removable Bolt’s (RB’s) – a useful addition to your trad-rack
There was a buzz on the Climb.co.za forum recently around bad things happening when good men do nothing…and removable bolts (RBs) were mentioned.
Aug 11, 2010
23 Comments