Deception Direct F1 ** 1972

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M Scott and H F Snijders

Recommended to anyone who wishes to bag this splendid peak and enjoy himself into the bargain


Just to the right of the highest part of the neck, climb the first rock band via a short crack, then move across to the left and another band to the foot of a prominent chimney-like fault. Move up this until it is blocked by a scruffy overhanging section. Traverse along a ledge to the left and and then up a short slanting slab (crux) to gain a recess of grey weathered rock. From the top of this recess diagonal climbing up to the right, on freakishly weathered rock, takes one back into the continuation of the slanting fault. Climb up small chock stones at the back of the 'cave' under the roof, then do a spectacular, short traverse to the left and climb past the overhang. From here delightful climbing up open faces brings one down to the top at a point close the the gully used to get down to the abseil point.