Divine Time 19 *****

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Divine Time High Res June 2016.jpg

Start View the topo on the photograph. The route traverses starts 2m right of the water drip and collection point at the more or less in the middle of the Divine Time Buttress. The start is marked with a cairn place on a block.

  • Pitch 1 : (19) 55m Do a couple of moves up the white rock and place a high large cam. Crank through to a jug - a bit rounded if you are short. Continue straight up the good quality grey rock to a ledge at 35m or so. Stance here or continue for another 10m up the obvious recess and step right onto the face/pillar and continue to a ledge with some blocks at the base of the orange rock.
  • Pitch 2 : (19) 25m Head for the left leaning red recessed ramp and continue to below a large overhang and make a stance on a perch.
  • Pitch 3 (19) 25m Move right and climb through the overhang on the right. One can place excellent gear at the lip from an under-cling in the corner under the over-hang. Make sure you have very long slings to avoid drag if you choose to leave gear in the rail under the overhang. Swing out right and climb diagonally up right avoiding the chossy channel on the left. Follow the good rock diagonally right passing the first triangular overhang and continue past the second, larger triangular overhang on the right and then straight up as per the topo to a belay ledgeto stance on a large ledge.
  • Pitch 4 (19) 50m Place a 1 inch cam up on the right. Climb up the flakes first using jugs and then lay-back after placing the very obvious 2.5 inch cam (gold camelot or equivalent). Above you are huge roofs. Move up to under the roof and then pull through the obvious notch to find yourself under another massive roof system. Exit this on the right and then climb straight up the arete to belay left of a large yellow wood tree/bush.
  • Pitch 5 : (18) 20m Climb the obvious recess using the flakes and then do a crank through the overlap to continue more easily to the top.

FA: C Edelstein, Deon Van Zyl February 2014

Descent walk left, (EAST) about 40m to the Timerity abseil.

Some beta (Snort).

  • 1. The single hardest move especially if you are short stature is 3m off the ground.
  • 2. This route is steep and consistent and pumpy at the grade. It has about as much 19 grade climbing as all the grade 19 pitches -combined - on Africa or Fountain Ledges so you need to be quite climbing fit. None of the actual moves are as hard as say the crux on Last Laugh but there are lots and lots of them. You should be competent and fit enough to do grade 20 one pitch routes on trad before doing this route.
  • 3. The protection is excellent especially at the cruxes. However, at Yellowwood the routes and pitches are long and run-outs are part and parcel of the climbing experience there. Otherwise you can easily run out of time especially in winter.
  • 4. It can be climbed all year round and is dry within two days of rain.
  • 5. If you have an epic the route is steep so easy to rap off bollards and threads.
  • 6. Some climbers who have done Good Time reckon the routes is improved by linking to the top pitches on Good Time after doing the 3rd pitch. This might be so but pitch 4 is excellent and pitch 5 also has decent climbing with a spicy crux at the grade. Good Time in its own right is a 5 star route and has consistent grade 19 climbing with only a short 4m crux through the roof. Unless you have a visitor who is climbing once off at Yellowwood I strongly recommend doing each route independently.
  • 7. Gear: Standard rack of wires and cams with double cams of alternate sizes say as some of the pitches are long. No micro nuts or micro cams are necessary. 50m ropes are fine but then you will have to use the optional stance of pitch 1 which is no big deal.
  • 8. The climbing is steep and intimidating but it flows nicely. It is grade 19! and all the cruxes can be protected before committing to the moves. Once committed to a crux, remember it is grade 19. That means you will be able to climb safely for not more than a metre or two before you will be reasonably comfortable to put out more pro.
  • 9. Finding the Timerity descent is easy from here. You can see the red rope tat from the final belay stance on top of the Divine Time Buttress. Facing out look down and to your right and you will see red rope tat (As at June 2016) at the start of the long grassy floured ledge topped by the overhang (cave).