Difference between revisions of "Eastern Cape"

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Eastern Cape climbing offers a variety of different rock types. There are many small crags with good potential for new route development. There is an Eastern Cape section of the MCSA and the Rhodes University Mountain club.  
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The Eastern Cape offers a variety of different rock with lots of potential for new route development. The climbing venues are scattered broadly over the entire Eastern Cape. There are nearly 800 sport routes, hundreds of trad lines & a few bouldering areas. There are a few indoor bouldering venues. The largest is at Rhodes University. The climbing community is fairly small, but quite active & welcoming. Climbing days are mostly coordinated via various whatapp groups. For more information http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/ or contact info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za .     
  
==PDF Topo Downloads for Climbing Areas in the Eastern Cape==
 
http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/eastern-cape/
 
 
== Map of Climbing Areas in the Eastern Cape ==
 
<display_points type="terrain" height="500" width="800">
 
-33.715785, 23.843001|[[Kleinrivier]]
 
-33.924301, 24.249397 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
 
-33.927547, 24.268979 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
 
</display_points>
 
  
  
Line 17: Line 8:
 
! Area Name  !! Featured Image  !! Climbing Type  !! Description
 
! Area Name  !! Featured Image  !! Climbing Type  !! Description
 
|-
 
|-
| <big>[[Alicedale]]</big> || [[File:Clm0161b.jpg|thumb|link=]] || Bouldering || Small bouldering area near Grahamstown, access still being negotiated.
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| <big>[[Alicedale]]</big> || [[File:Clm0161b.jpg|thumb|link=]] || Bouldering || Sand stone quartzite with more than 700 boulder problems. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/alicedale-bouldering Updated PDF guide]
 
|-
 
|-
| <big>[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]</big> || ''image needed'' || ? || ''description needed''
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| <big>[[Nguniland]]</big> || ''image needed'' || Trad & Sport || Quartzite slabs outside Kareedow in the Langkloof. 9 sport routes & 26 trad lines. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/nguniland-kareedow Updated guide]
 
|-
 
|-
| <big>[[Buffalo River]]</big> || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || Close to East London with short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 7 sport routes and over 100 trad routes. Good potential for more routes here. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access.
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| <big>[[Buffalo River]]</big> || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || 30km from East London. Short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 10 sport & about 500 trad routes. Some potential for more routes. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/buffalo-river-east-london Updated guide]
 
|-
 
|-
| [[Cape St Francis]] || ''image needed'' || Bouldering || seaside bouldering  
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| [[Cape St Francis]] || ''image needed'' || Bouldering || Seaside bouldering. About 210 problems, mostly easy to moderate.  [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/cape-st-francis Updated guide]
 
|-
 
|-
| [[Cockscombe]] || [[File:Lsc0041b.jpg|thumb|link=]] || Trad || A series of walls & kloofs (gorges) about an hour from Port Elizabeth. Mostly trad routes.  
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| [[Cockscomb]] || [[File:Lsc0041b.jpg|thumb|link=]] || Trad || Prominent mountain peak near Port Elizabeth. Walk-in 5 hours.[http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/cockscoomb Updated guide] 
 
|-
 
|-
| Coffee Bay || ''image needed'' || Trad || Seacliffs, excellent short trad routes. Contact the Coffeeshack backpacker's lodge.
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| Compassberg || ''image needed'' || Multi-pitch Trad || Multi-pitch trad routes on dolorite near Nieu Bethesda. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/compassberg Route guide is here]
 
|-
 
|-
| Compassberg || ''image needed'' || Multi-pitch Trad || Multi-pitch trad routes near Nieu Bethesda. Contact the MCSA for details.
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| Crag-X Grahamstown || [[File:Clm0090b.jpg|'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown|thumb|link=]] || Example || Bouldering in Grahamstown.
 
|-
 
|-
| Coombs || ''image needed'' || Sport || Short sport routes near Grahamstown, access permanently closed due to climbers not following access requirements. Please check access carefully at crags before just rocking
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| [[Fort Fordyce]] || '' image needed'' || Trad & sport || More than 70 sport routes & some trad. Dolorite. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/fort-fordyce Updated PDF Guide]
 
|-
 
|-
| Crag-X Grahamstown || [[File:Clm0090b.jpg|'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown|thumb|link=]] || Example || Small crag with a bit of bouldering not too far from Grahamstown.
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| Groot Rivier || ''image needed'' || Trad & sport || 30km from Plettenberg Bay in the direction of Port Elizabeth. 7 sport routes & an amazing pinnacle. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/groot-rivier-plettenberg-bay On-line route discriptions]
 
|-
 
|-
| [[Fort Fordyce]] || ''image needed'' || Sport || A few sport routes can be found here visit Climbing the Amatoles for more information.
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| Grips || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || A huge quartzite slab face at the eastern end of Baviaanskloof. Sport and trad routes. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/grips-baviaanskloof Updated guide]
 
|-
 
|-
| Graaff-Reinet || ''image needed'' || Sport || Sport routes near the caravan park under construction. Contact Herman van Rensburg.
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| [[Hogsback]] || [[File:Clm0167b.jpg|Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC|thumb|link=]] || Sport & Trad || Sport & trad routes on dolorite above Hogsback village. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/hogsback Updated PDF Guide]
 
|-
 
|-
 
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| [[Howissen's Poort]] || ''image needed'' || Sport || 42 overhanging sport routes on sandstone quartzite close to Grahamstown. 1 minute walk-in. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/howieson-s-poort-grahamstown Updated guide]
| Groot Rivier || ''image needed'' || Sport || There are 6 sport routes 25m long.  From Plettenberg Bay head west along the N2 for about 32km.  Some 8km past the R102 turn-off to Nature's Valley park at a gate just beyond the Groot Rivier Bridge. Go through the gate and walk left (east) on a forest road and then head north up the slope to the right of the fire break for about 5 minutes.  A cairn of white stones is visible in the undergrowth to the left. Follow a vague trail for about 5minutes through the bush heading down to your left (south-west). Find bolted lower offs. The Groot River bridge is visible about 1km away.  There are 4 routes of moderate grade (17 to 20) below the lower offs.  The 2 routes visible to the right (when facing the crag) are harder the right one being about 21.
 
 
 
 
 
| Grootrivierpoort || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || At the start of Baviaanskloof, a.k.a "Grips". Sport and trad routes. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
 
 
|-
 
|-
| Hellspoort || ''image needed'' || Sport || Crag near Grahamstown closed due to climbers littering!
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| Joubertina || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || Sport & Trad climbing on quarzite in the Kouga mountains. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/kouga-wildernis-joubertina Updated guide]
 
|-
 
|-
| [[Hogsback]] || [[File:Clm0167b.jpg|Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC|thumb|link=]] || Sport & Trad || Sport & trad routes near the beautiful town of Hogsback. Hogsback in the Amatola Region, Eastern Cape.
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| [[Lady's Slipper]] || [[File:Clm0164b.jpg|Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape|thumb|link=]] || Trad, Sport & Bouldering || Quartzite, mix of overhanging & slab routes. 52 sport routes, 333 trad lines & more than 80 boulder problems. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/lady-s-slipper Updated guides] 
 
|-
 
|-
| [[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]] || ''image needed'' || Sport || Short sport routes close to Grahamstown.
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| [[Morgan Bay]] || ''image needed'' || Trad || Sea cliffs with a subtropical feel, more than 600 short trad routes on dolerite. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/morgan-bay Updated guide]
 
|-
 
|-
| Joubertina || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || Sport & Trad climbing in the Kouga mountains. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
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| [[NSA, East London]] || ''image needed'' || Predominantly sport climbing || In East London, smooth vertical mudstone or siltstone. More than 60 sport routes ranging from 16-32. There are a few trad routes. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/nsa Updated guide]
 
|-
 
|-
| Keinrivier || ''image needed'' || ''?'' || ''description needed''
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| [[Pinnacle Gorge]] || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || 37 sport routes & more than 450 trad lines on sandstone quartzite mix. Access is sensitive. Please contact info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za for more information.
 
|-
 
|-
| [[Lady Slipper]] || [[File:Clm0164b.jpg|Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape|thumb|link=]] || Bouldering || ''description needed''
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| The Grots || ''image needed'' || Bouldering || Bouldering area near Grahamstown. Quartzite.[http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/grots-bouldering-grahamstown Updated guide]
 
|-
 
|-
| Lalapanzi || ''image needed'' || Trad || A dolerite crag some 80km from East London (on the way to Morgan Bay). Only 7 trad routes have been opened so far.
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| Van Stadens  || [[File:Clm0160b.jpg|Hydrophilic, The Beach|thumb|link=]] || Sport || More than 300 sport routes on quartzite about 35km out of Port Elizabeth. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/van-stadens-gorge Updated guide]
 
|-
 
|-
| [[Morgan Bay]] || ''image needed'' || Trad || Seacliffs, brilliant short trad routes with a few good sport routes on a mix of dolerite, sedimentary & granite. Route book at the Morgan Bay Hotel, or contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713 in East London. 315 routes here so far.
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| [[Waterkloof]] || [[File:Waterkloof-2010-16.jpg|Hydrophilic, Donovan Willis showing his guns on an unnamed 29 in Waterkloof, Eastern Cape|thumb|link=]] || Sport || The kloof is a sport climbers dream. The area is pristine, the rock is excellent, the walk-in is short and in summer the kloof stays very cool. Quartzite. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/waterkloof-baviaanskloof-rock-climbing Updated PDF guide]
 
|-
 
|-
| [[NSA, East London]] || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || In East London, some sandstone with 12 sport routes ranging from 17-26 and an open project with a few trad routes too.
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| [[Windmill Hole]] || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || In East London. 12 sport routes on vertical mudstone/siltstone ranging from 15-25. 15 trad routes. Easy walk-in. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/windmill-hole-east-london Updated PDF Guide]
|-
 
| [[Pinnacle Gorge]] || ''image needed'' || ''?'' || You need to be a member of the Mountain Club of South Africa Eastern Cape Section to access this area.  
 
|-
 
| Pompies Pillar || ''image needed'' || Trad || A short dolerite crag in East London with 1 sport route and a couple of trad lines, limited potential.
 
|-
 
| The Grots || ''image needed'' || Bouldering || Tiny bouldering area near Grahamstown.
 
|-
 
| [[The Shire]] || ''image needed'' || ''?'' || ''description needed''
 
|-
 
| Van Stadens Gorge || ''image needed'' || ''?'' || ''description needed''
 
|-
 
| Van Stadens River Dam || [[File:Clm0160b.jpg|Hydrophilic, The Beach|thumb|link=]] || Sport || About 10 sport routes close to Lady's Slipper. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
 
|-
 
| [[Windmill Hole]] || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || In East London with some sport routes on sandstone ranging from 14-25 as well as 10 trad routes.
 
|-
 
| Yellow Sands || ''image needed'' || Sport || About 25km from East London, an amazing short dolerite crag. Access is sensitive please first contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713. There are 3 bolted lines graded 20-24 and a few trad lines with some development potential.
 
  
 
|}
 
|}
 
  
 
==Eastern Cape Climbing Clubs==
 
==Eastern Cape Climbing Clubs==
There is an Eastern Cape section of the [http://eas.mcsa.org.za MCSA] and the [http://www.ru.ac.za/sportsadmin/sportsclubs/mountain/ Rhodes University Mountain club].
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[http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/ MCSA EP Section] and the [http://www.ru.ac.za/sportsadmin/sportsclubs/mountain/ Rhodes University Mountain club].

Latest revision as of 23:44, 13 May 2018

The Eastern Cape offers a variety of different rock with lots of potential for new route development. The climbing venues are scattered broadly over the entire Eastern Cape. There are nearly 800 sport routes, hundreds of trad lines & a few bouldering areas. There are a few indoor bouldering venues. The largest is at Rhodes University. The climbing community is fairly small, but quite active & welcoming. Climbing days are mostly coordinated via various whatapp groups. For more information http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/ or contact info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za .


Area Name Featured Image Climbing Type Description
Alicedale
Clm0161b.jpg
Bouldering Sand stone quartzite with more than 700 boulder problems. Updated PDF guide
Nguniland image needed Trad & Sport Quartzite slabs outside Kareedow in the Langkloof. 9 sport routes & 26 trad lines. Updated guide
Buffalo River image needed Sport & Trad 30km from East London. Short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 10 sport & about 500 trad routes. Some potential for more routes. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access. Updated guide
Cape St Francis image needed Bouldering Seaside bouldering. About 210 problems, mostly easy to moderate. Updated guide
Cockscomb
Lsc0041b.jpg
Trad Prominent mountain peak near Port Elizabeth. Walk-in 5 hours.Updated guide
Compassberg image needed Multi-pitch Trad Multi-pitch trad routes on dolorite near Nieu Bethesda. Route guide is here
Crag-X Grahamstown
'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown
Example Bouldering in Grahamstown.
Fort Fordyce image needed Trad & sport More than 70 sport routes & some trad. Dolorite. Updated PDF Guide
Groot Rivier image needed Trad & sport 30km from Plettenberg Bay in the direction of Port Elizabeth. 7 sport routes & an amazing pinnacle. On-line route discriptions
Grips image needed Sport & Trad A huge quartzite slab face at the eastern end of Baviaanskloof. Sport and trad routes. Updated guide
Hogsback
Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC
Sport & Trad Sport & trad routes on dolorite above Hogsback village. Updated PDF Guide
Howissen's Poort image needed Sport 42 overhanging sport routes on sandstone quartzite close to Grahamstown. 1 minute walk-in. Updated guide
Joubertina image needed Sport & Trad Sport & Trad climbing on quarzite in the Kouga mountains. Updated guide
Lady's Slipper
Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape
Trad, Sport & Bouldering Quartzite, mix of overhanging & slab routes. 52 sport routes, 333 trad lines & more than 80 boulder problems. Updated guides
Morgan Bay image needed Trad Sea cliffs with a subtropical feel, more than 600 short trad routes on dolerite. Updated guide
NSA, East London image needed Predominantly sport climbing In East London, smooth vertical mudstone or siltstone. More than 60 sport routes ranging from 16-32. There are a few trad routes. Updated guide
Pinnacle Gorge image needed Sport & Trad 37 sport routes & more than 450 trad lines on sandstone quartzite mix. Access is sensitive. Please contact info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za for more information.
The Grots image needed Bouldering Bouldering area near Grahamstown. Quartzite.Updated guide
Van Stadens
Hydrophilic, The Beach
Sport More than 300 sport routes on quartzite about 35km out of Port Elizabeth. Updated guide
Waterkloof
Hydrophilic, Donovan Willis showing his guns on an unnamed 29 in Waterkloof, Eastern Cape
Sport The kloof is a sport climbers dream. The area is pristine, the rock is excellent, the walk-in is short and in summer the kloof stays very cool. Quartzite. Updated PDF guide
Windmill Hole image needed Sport & Trad In East London. 12 sport routes on vertical mudstone/siltstone ranging from 15-25. 15 trad routes. Easy walk-in. Updated PDF Guide

Eastern Cape Climbing Clubs

MCSA EP Section and the Rhodes University Mountain club.