Difference between revisions of "Eastern Cape"

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| <big>[[Alicedale]]</big> || [[File:Clm0161b.jpg|thumb|link=]] || Bouldering || More than 350 boulder problems.  
 
| <big>[[Alicedale]]</big> || [[File:Clm0161b.jpg|thumb|link=]] || Bouldering || More than 350 boulder problems.  
 
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| <big>[[Nguniland]]</big> || ''image needed'' || ? || Quartzite slabs outside Kareedow in the Langkloof. 9 sport routes & 26 trad lines. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/nguniland-kareedow Updated guide]
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| <big>[[Nguniland]]</big> || ''image needed'' || Trad & Sport || Quartzite slabs outside Kareedow in the Langkloof. 9 sport routes & 26 trad lines. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/nguniland-kareedow Updated guide]
 
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| <big>[[Buffalo River]]</big> || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || 30km from East London. Short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 10 sport & about 500 trad routes. Some potential for more routes. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/buffalo-river-east-london Updated guide]
 
| <big>[[Buffalo River]]</big> || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || 30km from East London. Short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 10 sport & about 500 trad routes. Some potential for more routes. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/buffalo-river-east-london Updated guide]
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| Compassberg || ''image needed'' || Multi-pitch Trad || Multi-pitch trad routes near Nieu Bethesda. Contact the MCSA for details.
 
| Compassberg || ''image needed'' || Multi-pitch Trad || Multi-pitch trad routes near Nieu Bethesda. Contact the MCSA for details.
 
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| Crag-X Grahamstown || [[File:Clm0090b.jpg|'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown|thumb|link=]] || Example || Small crag with a bit of bouldering not too far from Grahamstown.
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| Crag-X Grahamstown || [[File:Clm0090b.jpg|'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown|thumb|link=]] || Example || Bouldering in Grahamstown.
 
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| [[Fort Fordyce]] || '' image needed'' || Sport || More than 70 sport routes & some trad.
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| [[Fort Fordyce]] || '' image needed'' || Trad & sport || More than 70 sport routes & some trad.
 
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| Graaff-Reinet || ''image needed'' || Sport || Sport routes near the caravan park. There is no routes bolted only single anchors but the hangers are with Neil Keyser. Take care for loose rocks. Area needs to be cleared before climbing at the anchors.  Contact Neil Keyser or Willem Avenant for the hangers.
 
| Graaff-Reinet || ''image needed'' || Sport || Sport routes near the caravan park. There is no routes bolted only single anchors but the hangers are with Neil Keyser. Take care for loose rocks. Area needs to be cleared before climbing at the anchors.  Contact Neil Keyser or Willem Avenant for the hangers.
 
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| Groot Rivier || ''image needed'' || Sport || There are 6 sport routes 25m long.  From Plettenberg Bay head west along the N2 for about 32km.  Some 8km past the R102 turn-off to Nature's Valley park at a gate just beyond the Groot Rivier Bridge.  Go through the gate and walk left (east) on a forest road and then head north up the slope to the right of the fire break for about 5 minutes.  A cairn of white stones is visible in the undergrowth to the left.  Follow a vague trail for about 5minutes through the bush heading down to your left (south-west).  Find bolted lower offs. The Groot River bridge is visible about 1km away.  There are 4 routes of moderate grade (17 to 20) below the lower offs.  The 2 routes visible to the right (when facing the crag) are harder the right one being about 21.
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| Groot Rivier || ''image needed'' || Trad & sport || There are 6 sport routes 25m long.  From Plettenberg Bay head west along the N2 for about 32km.  Some 8km past the R102 turn-off to Nature's Valley park at a gate just beyond the Groot Rivier Bridge.  Go through the gate and walk left (east) on a forest road and then head north up the slope to the right of the fire break for about 5 minutes.  A cairn of white stones is visible in the undergrowth to the left.  Follow a vague trail for about 5minutes through the bush heading down to your left (south-west).  Find bolted lower offs. The Groot River bridge is visible about 1km away.  There are 4 routes of moderate grade (17 to 20) below the lower offs.  The 2 routes visible to the right (when facing the crag) are harder the right one being about 21.
 
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  | Grips || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || At the start of Baviaanskloof. Sport and trad routes. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/grips-baviaanskloof Updated Guide]  
 
  | Grips || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || At the start of Baviaanskloof. Sport and trad routes. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/grips-baviaanskloof Updated Guide]  
 
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| [[Hogsback]] || [[File:Clm0167b.jpg|Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC|thumb|link=]] || Sport & Trad || Sport & trad routes near the beautiful town of Hogsback. Hogsback in the Amatola Region, Eastern Cape.
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| [[Hogsback]] || [[File:Clm0167b.jpg|Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC|thumb|link=]] || Sport & Trad || Sport & trad routes above Hogsback village.  
 
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| [[Howissen's Poort]] || ''image needed'' || Sport || 42 overhanging sport routes close to Grahamstown. 1 minute walk-in.[http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/howieson-s-poort-grahamstown Updated Guide]
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| [[Howissen's Poort]] || ''image needed'' || Sport || 42 overhanging sport routes close to Grahamstown. 1 minute walk-in.[http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/howieson-s-poort-grahamstown Updated guide]
 
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| Joubertina || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || Sport & Trad climbing in the Kouga mountains. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
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| Joubertina || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || Sport & Trad climbing in the Kouga mountains. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/kouga-wildernis-joubertina Updated guide]
 
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| Keinrivier || ''image needed'' || ''?'' || ''description needed''
 
| Keinrivier || ''image needed'' || ''?'' || ''description needed''
 
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| [[Lady Slipper]] || [[File:Clm0164b.jpg|Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape|thumb|link=]] || Bouldering || ''description needed''
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| [[Lady's Slipper]] || [[File:Clm0164b.jpg|Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape|thumb|link=]] || Trad, Sport & Bouldering || The Lady's Slipper is owned by MCSA EP Section. Quartzite, mix of overhanging & slab routes. 52 sport routes, 333 trad lines & more than 80 boulder problems. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/lady-s-slipper Updated guides] 
 
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| [[Morgan Bay]] || ''image needed'' || Trad || Sea cliffs with a subtropical feel, about 575 mostly short trad routes with 7 sport routes on dolerite. Up dated guide is http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/morgan-bay  
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| [[Morgan Bay]] || ''image needed'' || Trad || Sea cliffs with a subtropical feel, about 575 mostly short trad routes with 7 sport routes on dolerite. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/morgan-bay Updated guide]
 
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| [[NSA, East London]] || ''image needed'' || Predominantly sport climbing || In East London, smooth vertical mudstone or siltstone. More than 60 sport routes ranging from 16-32. Route guide  http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/nsa  
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| [[NSA, East London]] || ''image needed'' || Predominantly sport climbing || In East London, smooth vertical mudstone or siltstone. More than 60 sport routes ranging from 16-32. There are a few trad routes. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/nsa Updated guide]
 
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| [[Pinnacle Gorge]] || ''image needed'' || ''?'' || You need to be a member of the Mountain Club of South Africa Eastern Cape Section to access this area.  
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| [[Pinnacle Gorge]] || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || More than 40 sport routes & about 450 trad lines. Access is sensitive. Please contact info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za for more information.  
 
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| The Grots || ''image needed'' || Bouldering || Tiny bouldering area near Grahamstown.
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| The Grots || ''image needed'' || Bouldering || Bouldering area near Grahamstown. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/grots-bouldering-grahamstown Updated guide]
 
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| [[The Shire]] || ''image needed'' || ''?'' || ''description needed''
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| Van Stadens  || [[File:Clm0160b.jpg|Hydrophilic, The Beach|thumb|link=]] || Sport || More than 200 sport routes about 35km out of Port Elizabeth. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/van-stadens-gorge Updated guide]
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| Van Stadens  || [[File:Clm0160b.jpg|Hydrophilic, The Beach|thumb|link=]] || Sport || More than 200 sport routes about 35km out of Port Elizabeth. http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/van-stadens-gorge  
 
 
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| [[Waterkloof]] || [[File:Waterkloof-2010-16.jpg|Hydrophilic, Donovan Willis showing his guns on an unnamed 29 in Waterkloof, Eastern Cape|thumb|link=]] || Sport || The kloof is a sport climbers dream. The area is pristine, the rock is excellent, the walk-in is short and in summer the kloof stays very cool.
 
| [[Waterkloof]] || [[File:Waterkloof-2010-16.jpg|Hydrophilic, Donovan Willis showing his guns on an unnamed 29 in Waterkloof, Eastern Cape|thumb|link=]] || Sport || The kloof is a sport climbers dream. The area is pristine, the rock is excellent, the walk-in is short and in summer the kloof stays very cool.

Revision as of 10:20, 13 January 2017

The Eastern Cape offers a variety of different rock with lots of potential for new route development. The climbing venues are scattered broadly over the entire Eastern Cape. There are more than 700 sport routes, hundreds of trad lines & a few bouldering areas. There are a few indoor bouldering venues. The largest is at Rhodes University. The climbing community is fairly small, but quite active & welcoming. Climbing days are mostly coordinated via various whatapp groups. For more information please contact info@easterncapeclimbing.co.za


Map of Climbing Areas in the Eastern Cape

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Area Name Featured Image Climbing Type Description
Alicedale
Clm0161b.jpg
Bouldering More than 350 boulder problems.
Nguniland image needed Trad & Sport Quartzite slabs outside Kareedow in the Langkloof. 9 sport routes & 26 trad lines. Updated guide
Buffalo River image needed Sport & Trad 30km from East London. Short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 10 sport & about 500 trad routes. Some potential for more routes. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access. Updated guide
Cape St Francis image needed Bouldering seaside bouldering
Cockscomb
Lsc0041b.jpg
Trad A series of walls & kloofs (gorges) about an hour from Port Elizabeth. Mostly trad routes.
Coffee Bay image needed Trad Seacliffs, excellent short trad routes. Contact the Coffeeshack backpacker's lodge.
Compassberg image needed Multi-pitch Trad Multi-pitch trad routes near Nieu Bethesda. Contact the MCSA for details.
Crag-X Grahamstown
'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown
Example Bouldering in Grahamstown.
Fort Fordyce image needed Trad & sport More than 70 sport routes & some trad.
Graaff-Reinet image needed Sport Sport routes near the caravan park. There is no routes bolted only single anchors but the hangers are with Neil Keyser. Take care for loose rocks. Area needs to be cleared before climbing at the anchors. Contact Neil Keyser or Willem Avenant for the hangers.
Groot Rivier image needed Trad & sport There are 6 sport routes 25m long. From Plettenberg Bay head west along the N2 for about 32km. Some 8km past the R102 turn-off to Nature's Valley park at a gate just beyond the Groot Rivier Bridge. Go through the gate and walk left (east) on a forest road and then head north up the slope to the right of the fire break for about 5 minutes. A cairn of white stones is visible in the undergrowth to the left. Follow a vague trail for about 5minutes through the bush heading down to your left (south-west). Find bolted lower offs. The Groot River bridge is visible about 1km away. There are 4 routes of moderate grade (17 to 20) below the lower offs. The 2 routes visible to the right (when facing the crag) are harder the right one being about 21.
Grips image needed Sport & Trad At the start of Baviaanskloof. Sport and trad routes. Updated Guide
Hogsback
Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC
Sport & Trad Sport & trad routes above Hogsback village.
Howissen's Poort image needed Sport 42 overhanging sport routes close to Grahamstown. 1 minute walk-in.Updated guide
Joubertina image needed Sport & Trad Sport & Trad climbing in the Kouga mountains. Updated guide
Keinrivier image needed ? description needed
Lady's Slipper
Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape
Trad, Sport & Bouldering The Lady's Slipper is owned by MCSA EP Section. Quartzite, mix of overhanging & slab routes. 52 sport routes, 333 trad lines & more than 80 boulder problems. Updated guides
Morgan Bay image needed Trad Sea cliffs with a subtropical feel, about 575 mostly short trad routes with 7 sport routes on dolerite. Updated guide
NSA, East London image needed Predominantly sport climbing In East London, smooth vertical mudstone or siltstone. More than 60 sport routes ranging from 16-32. There are a few trad routes. Updated guide
Pinnacle Gorge image needed Sport & Trad More than 40 sport routes & about 450 trad lines. Access is sensitive. Please contact info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za for more information.
The Grots image needed Bouldering Bouldering area near Grahamstown. Updated guide
Van Stadens
Hydrophilic, The Beach
Sport More than 200 sport routes about 35km out of Port Elizabeth. Updated guide
Waterkloof
Hydrophilic, Donovan Willis showing his guns on an unnamed 29 in Waterkloof, Eastern Cape
Sport The kloof is a sport climbers dream. The area is pristine, the rock is excellent, the walk-in is short and in summer the kloof stays very cool.
Windmill Hole image needed Sport & Trad In East London with some sport routes on sandstone ranging from 14-25 as well as 10 trad routes.

Eastern Cape Climbing Clubs

There is an Eastern Cape section of the MCSA and the Rhodes University Mountain club.