Eastern Cape

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The Eastern Cape offers a variety of different rock with lots of potential for new route development. The climbing venues are scattered broadly over the entire Eastern Cape. There are more than 700 sport routes, hundreds of trad lines & a few bouldering areas. The climbing community is fairly small, but active & welcoming.

Map of Climbing Areas in the Eastern Cape

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Area Name Featured Image Climbing Type Description
Bouldering More than 350 boulder problem.
Nguniland image needed ? Quartzite slabs out side Kareedow in the Langkloof. 9 sport routes & 26 trad lines. Updated guide
Buffalo River image needed Sport & Trad Close to East London with short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 7 sport routes and over 100 trad routes. Good potential for more routes here. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access.
Cape St Francis image needed Bouldering seaside bouldering
Trad A series of walls & kloofs (gorges) about an hour from Port Elizabeth. Mostly trad routes.
Coffee Bay image needed Trad Seacliffs, excellent short trad routes. Contact the Coffeeshack backpacker's lodge.
Compassberg image needed Multi-pitch Trad Multi-pitch trad routes near Nieu Bethesda. Contact the MCSA for details.
Crag-X Grahamstown
'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown
Example Small crag with a bit of bouldering not too far from Grahamstown.
Fort Fordyce image needed Sport More than 70 sport routes & some trad.
Graaff-Reinet image needed Sport Sport routes near the caravan park. There is no routes bolted only single anchors but the hangers are with Neil Keyser. Take care for loose rocks. Area needs to be cleared before climbing at the anchors. Contact Neil Keyser or Willem Avenant for the hangers.
Groot Rivier image needed Sport There are 6 sport routes 25m long. From Plettenberg Bay head west along the N2 for about 32km. Some 8km past the R102 turn-off to Nature's Valley park at a gate just beyond the Groot Rivier Bridge. Go through the gate and walk left (east) on a forest road and then head north up the slope to the right of the fire break for about 5 minutes. A cairn of white stones is visible in the undergrowth to the left. Follow a vague trail for about 5minutes through the bush heading down to your left (south-west). Find bolted lower offs. The Groot River bridge is visible about 1km away. There are 4 routes of moderate grade (17 to 20) below the lower offs. The 2 routes visible to the right (when facing the crag) are harder the right one being about 21.
Grips image needed Sport & Trad At the start of Baviaanskloof. Sport and trad routes. Updated Guide
Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC
Sport & Trad Sport & trad routes near the beautiful town of Hogsback. Hogsback in the Amatola Region, Eastern Cape.
Howissen's Poort image needed Sport 42 overhanging sport routes close to Grahamstown. 1 minute walk-in.Updated Guide
Joubertina image needed Sport & Trad Sport & Trad climbing in the Kouga mountains. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
Keinrivier image needed ? description needed
Lady Slipper
Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape
Bouldering description needed
Morgan Bay image needed Trad Sea cliffs with a subtropical feel, about 575 mostly short trad routes with 7 sport routes on dolerite. Up dated guide is http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/morgan-bay
NSA, East London image needed Predominantly sport climbing In East London, smooth vertical mudstone or siltstone. More than 60 sport routes ranging from 16-32. Route guide http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/nsa
Pinnacle Gorge image needed ? You need to be a member of the Mountain Club of South Africa Eastern Cape Section to access this area.
The Grots image needed Bouldering Tiny bouldering area near Grahamstown.
The Shire image needed ? description needed
Van Stadens
Hydrophilic, The Beach
Sport More than 200 sport routes about 35km out of Port Elizabeth. http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/van-stadens-gorge
Hydrophilic, Donovan Willis showing his guns on an unnamed 29 in Waterkloof, Eastern Cape
Sport The kloof is a sport climbers dream. The area is pristine, the rock is excellent, the walk-in is short and in summer the kloof stays very cool.
Windmill Hole image needed Sport & Trad In East London with some sport routes on sandstone ranging from 14-25 as well as 10 trad routes.

Eastern Cape Climbing Clubs

There is an Eastern Cape section of the MCSA and the Rhodes University Mountain club.