Difference between revisions of "Fine time 20 *****"

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[[File:Fine_Time_Topo_2016_High_res.jpg]]
 
[[File:Fine_Time_Topo_2016_High_res.jpg]]
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'''Start''' View the topo on the photograph. The route starts on the right of the "Extra Time" butress
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* Pitch 1 : (19 R) 40m Climb easily up the ramp and find some "not so good gear" placements. Step up onto the face and do a tricky move up and slightly left.  Climb more easily to a ledge (often a little damp). Climb the crack in the short left facing corner to a good ledge.
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* Pitch 2 : (20) 40m Climb up rightwards past the triangular overhang to a ledge. Climb the steep face above (or the grey face right of the corner which is not as clean) to a narrow ledge.  Move a few metres left and then climb the right facing corner and continue up to a good ledge.
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* Pitch 3 (20) 20m Climb up the face to under the thin overhang and pull through on the right into a steep crack.  Climb to the "dassie" ledge.
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* Pitch 4 : (21) 25m The original route climbs an obvious undercut but grotty recess on the left (19)but an improved version does a crank into the recess on the right shared with Extra Time.  Crank into the recess and climb up the left side and pass the overhangs on the left.  (Extra Time climbs the right side and then straight through the overhangs).  Move past the bush on the leftt to join the stance on Extra Time on a small but good ledge.
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* Pitch 5 (18) 15m This and the next two pitch can be combined. Climb up right and head across the exposed face to below an overhanging crack.
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* Pitch 6 : (20) 30m Climb the overhanging crack and turn the overhang on its right.  Climb diagonally left to the arete. Climb this and then finish up the corner to the walk-off ledge.
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FA: C Edelstein and Tine Versfeld 23  February 2014.  Assistance on improving the route by Adam Roff and Johan Lanz
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Descent:  Walk left along ledge systems all the way to the Timerity Abseil
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(See Topo on photograph)
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Descent is an elegant and relatively safe 4 or 5 abseils. 60m ropes are recommended.
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Walk horizontally 60m over blocks then bushes past the gulley and then blocks to find a thread below.
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* 1. Abseil about 15m to a large ledge.
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* 2. Look around at the back of the ledge and find a threaded rap point and biner. Abseil 40m or so and you find a point over a horn kept in place by a rock. It is easier to pull the rope from here.
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* 3. There is another sling point over a horn about 20m lower and a bit to the left. (You can combine abseil 2 and 3 but pulling the rope down is then quite strenuous.  What works well is if the first person to descend stays at the first sling point and then sorts out the rope which is usually twisted.  Then the rest of the party can combine abseil 2 and 3.  And then while they sort out the next point the person who abseiled first can come down on one of the ropes.
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* 4. Abseil about 40m to an obvious ledge system and look to the left past a bush for a threaded rap point with a leaver biner .
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* 5. Abseil about 45m to the ground.
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[[Category:Yellowwood Amphitheatre]]

Revision as of 08:14, 30 May 2016

Fine Time Topo 2016 High res.jpg

Start View the topo on the photograph. The route starts on the right of the "Extra Time" butress

  • Pitch 1 : (19 R) 40m Climb easily up the ramp and find some "not so good gear" placements. Step up onto the face and do a tricky move up and slightly left. Climb more easily to a ledge (often a little damp). Climb the crack in the short left facing corner to a good ledge.
  • Pitch 2 : (20) 40m Climb up rightwards past the triangular overhang to a ledge. Climb the steep face above (or the grey face right of the corner which is not as clean) to a narrow ledge. Move a few metres left and then climb the right facing corner and continue up to a good ledge.
  • Pitch 3 (20) 20m Climb up the face to under the thin overhang and pull through on the right into a steep crack. Climb to the "dassie" ledge.
  • Pitch 4 : (21) 25m The original route climbs an obvious undercut but grotty recess on the left (19)but an improved version does a crank into the recess on the right shared with Extra Time. Crank into the recess and climb up the left side and pass the overhangs on the left. (Extra Time climbs the right side and then straight through the overhangs). Move past the bush on the leftt to join the stance on Extra Time on a small but good ledge.
  • Pitch 5 (18) 15m This and the next two pitch can be combined. Climb up right and head across the exposed face to below an overhanging crack.
  • Pitch 6 : (20) 30m Climb the overhanging crack and turn the overhang on its right. Climb diagonally left to the arete. Climb this and then finish up the corner to the walk-off ledge.


FA: C Edelstein and Tine Versfeld 23 February 2014. Assistance on improving the route by Adam Roff and Johan Lanz

Descent: Walk left along ledge systems all the way to the Timerity Abseil























(See Topo on photograph)

Descent is an elegant and relatively safe 4 or 5 abseils. 60m ropes are recommended.

Walk horizontally 60m over blocks then bushes past the gulley and then blocks to find a thread below.

  • 1. Abseil about 15m to a large ledge.
  • 2. Look around at the back of the ledge and find a threaded rap point and biner. Abseil 40m or so and you find a point over a horn kept in place by a rock. It is easier to pull the rope from here.
  • 3. There is another sling point over a horn about 20m lower and a bit to the left. (You can combine abseil 2 and 3 but pulling the rope down is then quite strenuous. What works well is if the first person to descend stays at the first sling point and then sorts out the rope which is usually twisted. Then the rest of the party can combine abseil 2 and 3. And then while they sort out the next point the person who abseiled first can come down on one of the ropes.
  • 4. Abseil about 40m to an obvious ledge system and look to the left past a bush for a threaded rap point with a leaver biner .
  • 5. Abseil about 45m to the ground.