Difference between revisions of "Hidden Kloof (bouldering, sport and trad)"

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Revision as of 13:29, 7 October 2015

Hidden Kloof

Hidden Kloof access was closed from early 90’s to 2015. Access was negotiated over a period of time by the MCSA. The MCSA’s efforts and the wishes of the landowners should be respected; a transgression of the rules could easily lead to closure which would be utterly awful and unforgivable. Access is only to MCSA members and also student members of the Exploratio and WITS climbing clubs. The Kloof is presently sport climbing with 1-2 trad lines. Bolts on the original lines are too old and rusted to climb on; routes are slowly being rebolted and new lines bolted. All bolts and bolting is handles/supplied by the MCSA. Getting into the kloof is a 20 minute walk then a pretty hairy scramble, a fall from which would be lethal. Not at all suitable for young kids or non-climbers. The kloof is quite open and the west wall faces NE so it gets sun from about 10 to 2 pm. The other side is shady most of day.

Access

For access details, please email admin@jhb.mcsa.org or go with someone who is familiar with it.

Rules

When entering Hidden Kloof, we agreed to comply with the following rules:

  • All Entrants must fill out and sign the Indemnity book and pay the access fee, currently R30 pp
  • No non MCSA card holding guests are permitted
  • Do not pick or disturb any plants
  • When walking in do not tread on the metal pipe
  • No dogs allowed, No fires allowed, No unnecessary noise
  • Absolutely no litter of any sort, including toilet paper, all must be carried out
  • Any toiletry activities must be happen DOWNSTREAM outside of the kloof area (NOT UPSTREAM, as its the catchment area).
  • All placement of bolts or other fixtures must be arranged through the MCSA
  • No camping/sleeping on the properties
  • All visitors must leave the property before dark

Please report any transgressions to the MCSA Johannesburg Section: admin@jhb.mcsa.org.za

Bolting

Bolt, hangers, rings are kindly supplied by the MCSA Johannesburg and Magaliesberg Sections and the Boven Fund. If you want to rebolt or open a new line, please check with Andrew Pedley. When re-bolting a line, don’t assume that the old bolts are in the right place, I have found that they are generally badly positioned. Top rope the line first. Use MCSA/Boven fund supplied kit, or kit approved by MCSA.

Hidden Kloof Route List

Routes described from downstream upward

The kloof has been subdivided into 3 sectors, to allow for future development:

  • Lower Sector of the kloof is the area of entry. The Lower Sector starts at a pool that blocks off access from lower down. There are amazing slab and gentle walls in this area. The Lower area ranges up to the point where the tall section of the kloof is entered. This point is marked by a large stack held up by a massive tree with roots running down to the ground on the true right.
  • Middle Sector of the kloof ranges from the elevated tree, that has its roots extending to the ground, up to the double ramp with the big tree at the top of the ramps. This sector has both gentle, vertical and inclined climbing potential.
  • Top Sector is the area above the double ramp with the big tree at the top. This area has tall steep to slab walls on both sides of the kloof.


True Left (West Wall)

True left is the left hand side of the kloof when looking downstream.


The Lower Sector

The Lower Sector of the kloof is the area of entry. The Lower Sector starts at a pool that blocks off access from lower down. There are amazing slab and gentle walls in this area. The Lower area ranges up to the point where the tall section of the kloof is entered. This point is marked by a large stack held up by a massive tree with roots running down to the ground on the true right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
The Pink Energy Orchid 26/7b BB: Grant Murray. ReBB: Dirk Smith, 2015. Route begins at a half dead tree, runs up the right of a blocky light orange pink purple flat inclined wall. Sustained and wandering. Pumpy! MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
<Add Name> Has not been opened potentially? BB: ? ReBB: Guenther Bargon, 2015. Runs up the left of a blocky light orange pink purple flat inclined wall. Pumpy! MCSA/Boven Fund hardware. Might be a project?

The Middle Sector

The Middle Sector of the kloof ranges from the elevated tree, that has its roots extending to the ground, up to the double ramp marked by a big tree at the top of the ramps. This sector has both gentle and steep climbing potential.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
Troy 24/7a BB: Grant Murray. FA: Grant Murray. This is the line left of the line left of The Pink Energy Orchid (add route name once named). This is the first line in the Middle Sector. NEEDS REBOLTING
Middle Aged Crisis 26/7b FA: Stewart Middlemiss. 1992/93. NEEDS REBOLTING
Demons of Desire 25/7a+ BB: Grant Murray. FA: Grant Murray. 1992/93. ReBB: Andrew Pedley, 2015. The obvious and stunning leaning groove. Belay off the bolt on the ramp. Feels traddy so even if you climb 30, prepare to struggle. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware
Phantom Bolter 24/7a 10+Chains FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1992/93. BB: Ebert Nel. 2015. This is an awesome line following the easiest looking line above the ramp. The route was opened on gear by Stewart Middlemiss in 1992/93, but was bolted in 2015 so that more climbers can safely benefit from it. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
Rising Star 28/7c BB: Andrew Pedley 2015. FA. Andrew Pledley. 2015. Amazing to think this one was hiding for so many years, just like Homo Naledi. It’s big and steep and will blow your mind and your forearms. Starts at the top of the ramp in the Middle Sector. Belay is easiest from the stream. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
The Vanguard 29/7c+ 9+Chains BB: Ebert Nel. FA: Ebert Nel, 2015. Starts at a base under a jagged three step roof with three bolts of super sequential powerful climbing into six bolts of very sequential technical climbing. The falls are cleaner the harder you try. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
Kiss of the Banshee 10+Chains BB: Grant Murray. ReBB: Alex Bester, 2015. FA: Grant Murray Follows the line of bolts up the right of the dark scoop and has been extended to the top of the crag by Alex Bester, 2015.
Enigma Open Project 10+Chains BB: Ebert Nel, 2015. Six bolts up the left of a dark scoop with 3 bolts to the chains. Amazing moves, potentially a king line here. No additional bolts are needed, just climb harder. Hard and an open proj to create psych. The moves go straight up. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
<Needs name/name finding> Fully bolted, NEEDS REBOLTING.
<Needs name/name finding> Partially bolted, maybe traditional? NEEDS REBOLTING?

The Top Sector

The Top Sector is the area above the double ramp with a tree ontop. This area has tall steep to slab walls on both sides of the kloof. There is a grassy ramp in the lower part of this sector on the on the true left.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
<needs a name/ name finding> Ontop of the grassy ramp. Newer set of bolts/shiny hangers, needs to be evaluated and decided on bolting status. might NEED REBOLTING
Legs to heaven open project BB: Ian Guest. Ontop of the grassy ramp. Long line with a halfway chain. Marked with 8mm bolts NEEDS REBOLTING.
Kiss my axe 29/7c+ BB: Richard Lord. FA: Richard Lord, 1992/93. Ontop of the grassy ramp. Slightly overhanging broken crack system with a karate chop signature movement NEEDS REBOLTING.

True Right (East Wall)

True right is the right hand side of the kloof when looking downstream.


The Lower Sector

The Lower Sector of the kloof is the area of entry. The Lower Sector starts at a pool that blocks off access from lower down. There is amazing slab and gentle walls in this area. The Lower area ranges up to the point where the tall section of the kloof is entered. This point is marked by a large stack held up by a massive tree with roots running down to the ground on the true right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
Fields of Destruction 23/6c+ FA: John Orrock, 1992/93. NEEDS REBOLTING
Baptism of Fire 21/6b+ FA: John Orrock, 1992/93. NEEDS REBOLTING, Apparently a crack line.

The Middle Sector

The Middle Sector of the kloof ranges from the elevated tree, that has its roots extending to the ground, up to the slab ramp marked by the next big tree at the top of the ramp. This sector has both gentle and steep climbing potential.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
En root 17/5c BB: Ebert Nel. FA: Ebert Nel, 2015. Starts on the spiky boulder, climbing over the root system and over another larger root. Fun root to climb;) MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
Off root 17/5c BB: Hannes de Meyer. FA: Hannes de Meyer, 2015. Just to the right of the root system and plants on the wall. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
Hide and Seek 20/6b 10+Chains BB: Ebert Nel. FA: Tyron Hopf. 2015. Follows a gully stepladder up to the 2nd bolt, followed by some crimpy madness and jug hauling for days. Check out the platform above the chains. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
Mystic Messiah 18/6a 9+Chains BB: Lizelle Makovini. FA: Lizelle Makovini, 2015. This route is opposite The Vanguard (3 meters down stream on the true right). Follows a slopy line with some really amazing controlled movements and spectacular crimping climbing toward the top.
Double or Nothing 20/6b 14+Chains BB: Ebert Nel. FA: Ebert Nel. 2015. Directly opposite Enigma. This line has awesome juggy climbing with intricate movements spicing things up a little. Lower off chains have been provided to clean with a 60m (This is not a multipitch!!!). A 70 meter rope gets the climber down to the ledge where the first bolt is clipped, if the belayer joins him on the ledge. Please tie a knot in the end of your rope to avoid accidents from happening. Really worth the mission.

The Top Sector

The Top Sector is the area above the double ramp with the big tree ontop.

. This area has tall steep to slab walls on both sides of the kloof.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
A Pinch of Pixie Dust 26/7b Natural+bolts FA. Mike Cartwright, 1992/93. Traditional line, marked by bolts on the lip of a roof, near the top of the kloof. Bolts not replaced yet. Permission for full bolting has been granted on the condition of "not paving over the old route".