|Climbing Type||Sport, Bouldering|
|Rock Type||Superb quality Sandstone|
|Season||All year round|
There are ±30 single pitch sport routes and a bouldering area. Routes are mostly vertical and can all be climbed using a 60m rope. It is about a 20min walk up to the crags. The rock is compact sandstone with great friction. Grades vary from 16 - 30.
The surroundings are stunning with the Palmietberg around you. When you have finished climbing, you can cool off in the Palmiet river below the bridge (jumping off the bridge is not recommended - there is a very "hittable" rock that usually can't be seen).
How to get there
Kleinmond is within an hour drive from Cape Town along the N2 highway or along the R44 coast Road (which is much more scenic. Get onto the N2 out of Cape Town, carry on through Somerset West and take the right hand turn towards Gordons Bay (after the Caltex petrol station on your right). Drive down the road until the end and then turn left (up a hill) and you will be on the coast road (the R44). Drive for about an hour until... About 5 kilometres after Betty's Bay you will come to a bridge that crosses the Palmiet river, the parking is 15 meters after the bridge on the left (you will have to pay a parking fee to park for the day) When going to Kleinmond it is recommendable driving via the coast road (from Cape Town) the drive along this road is very scenic and takes about the same amount of time as driving via the N2. To get to the climbing: Follow the path from the top right hand side of the car park and then branch left to go up the hill.
blue pin = bouldering
red pin = sport
From Left to Right:
- Jan's Fissure 19 - FA J Fischer, T Copeland 2015
- Dassie Trap 21 - FA J Fischer 2015
- Mono Bloc 23 - FA J Fischer 2021
- Stork's Landing 19/20 - FA J Fischer 2021
- Frog Face 19 - 1996
- Toad Breath 19 - 1996
- Walter 24 (left of Winston) - FA Phlip Olivier, Dec 2020
Between the top most two sectors there is a freestanding pillar, a bit to the back.
- Aubergine 18 (5B+C). Climb the short freestanding pillar starting on the right. March 2021
Topo download: [Bouldering Guide]
There is a handful of excellent quartzite boulder problems with a shameless mishmash of Star Wars and Star Trek themed names. Classics include:
- Pienk Gesiggie 6C
- FTL Drive 7B
- Talon Sanctuary 6C+
- Foreplay with Lexx 6A+
There's a few trad routes across the valley (where the bouldering is) on the higher cliff band.
Disclaimer: (LelikeGogga wrote) This photo topo is at least 15 years old. I do not know who originally put it together and the suggested grades are from vague memory.
Kleinmond is the nearest town (carry on past the parking area for 4 kilometres). There is a reasonable size supermarket (Spar) and some restaurants near the harbour area.
There is a nice campsite at the base of the climbing (at the parking area) and there are various B&Bs in Kleinmond.