Mohlapitse Valley

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Revision as of 21:09, 14 November 2020 by Vince egan (talk | contribs)
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Mohlapitse Valley
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Climbing TypeTrad
Rock Type
AreaMohlapitse Valley


ma-Kgopa Crag

Ma-Kgopa Crag.jpg

This is the first crag to be climbed in the Mohlapitse Valley. The crag ranges in height from a single short pitch to 2 pitches.
You'll preferably have a vehicle with high ground clearance to get there - it is certainly possible to get to the crag in a sedan, but it may take a little negotiating... Parking is a very short walk from the crag.
The crag is situated on a bend in the Mohlapitse River - when this river is in flood, the bottom of the crag may be soggy!
Sectors are described here from left to right when looking at the crag.

Pinnacle Sector:

Dream Snatcher (17?, 7 draws, 14m)

Follow the bolts to the left of an overhanging bulge and follow the open book to a large ledge. Beware the large loose overhanging block to the right of the line, above the second bolt! Continue up the open book through an obvious slot to the rings. Use two 60cm slings on the top anchors to avoid rope drag when top-roping.
FA: Bron Egan - 2 August 2020; BB: Vince Egan

Picnic Sector:

Art and Sole (18?, 8 draws, 17m)

Climb through a bulge and move right and up, following the line of bolts. Be careful of Z-clipping at the second bolt! Climb to the rings above. Climbing is sustained for the first 3-4 bolts, with the crux section(s?) low down.
FA: Aine Egan - 20 September 2020; BB: Vince Egan

Closed Project (5 draws, 14m)

Three bolts up to top anchors on the face to the left of the open book on the far right of the crag.Shares top anchors with Incy Wincy Spider. Closed Project - Vince Egan.
BB: Vince Egan

Incy Wincy Spider (14, trad, 14m)

Ascend the obvious large open book facing the picnic spot. The route is great for those learning to trad, with plenty of placements and not being too strenuous. It is highly likely that his was climbed on trad before - if you are the first ascentionist, please make the appropriate corrections below!
FA: Vince & Bron Egan 25 October 2020


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Access is currently being negotiated mith the Serala Community by the MCSA. Watch this space for developments!