Northern Sector

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South Side

This sector is reached by walking around past the North-West Pillar. There are several short cliffs below and right of the Parlimentary Wall (which is accessed from above).

Blattidae Buttress

Familia Roach 20 ***

Climb the central series of vertical breaks on the buttress. Near the top, step right to a foot ledge then through the tiny overlap to the top.

FA: R. Halsey and J. Wakeling (Mar 2016)

Funky Roach 18 ***

Start just right of Familia Roach and head up and right to follow the left side of a groove on the right of the buttress. Near the top, make a traverse right at a finger rail and then up to the top.

FA: J. Wakeling and R. Halsey (Mar 2016)

1. Familia Roach 2. Funky Roach

South Pillar

Crack It! (22, 16)

Start at the cairn and keep left but stay on the face, no point in walking up the broken ledge. Negotiate the crack in the open book and traverse right and up to the same stance as the Red Pillar Route. Take some small nuts and cams for the crack.

FA: Uwe Pitsch, Anita Hintringer

Red Pillar route (20, 16)

A technical one pitch climb for a cold day. Start at the cairn and climb more or less straight up via some small crimps and side pulls. Stance on a comfy ledge under a roof. One or 2 airy steps out the left make it possible to gain the face above, top out after 50m. The second pitch was probably climbed before as part of one of the old routes there.

FA: Uwe Pitsch, Anita Hintringer

Bounty Hunter (23) ****

Proud line with committing crux. Climbs the centre of the face to the right of the Red Pillar

  • Pitch 1. 45m (23)

Start up a very short crack to ledge. Follow the most direct line to the base of the steep orange face. A tricky section on crimps leades to a horizontal break. Traverse right and pull over the small roof at a huge jug. Move back left and then more or less straight to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey, Marian Penso, Rachel Strate (March 2019)


Green: Crack it!, Red: Red Pillar, Yellow: Bounty Hunter

North-West Pillar Sector


From Spout cave, walk the entire length of the Main wall and past Rooibosch. Continue around and just as the back side of Tafelberg comes into view, scramble up right to a traverse ledge about ten meters up. Follow this back around to the front side of the mountain to the North-West Pillar. The routes start from the traverse ledge and end at the ledge about 40m up. There is a tat anchor near Pedestal Face and a good bollard near the top of The Tabhomi Gun Show

Rebel County 19 ****

Climb up a series of vertical cracks a few meters to the left of the North-West Pillar.

FA: R. Halsey and M. Thilo

NW pillar 1.JPG

Rebel County

The Tabhomi Gun Show 23 *****

This route is on the face to the right of the North-West Pillar. Straight up the technical face just left of a vertical recess that runs about a third the way up cliff, and about 3m right of the corner formed by the pillar. At the narrow ledge follow a crack and steeper climbing above.

FA: R. Halsey and M. Thilo

Edge of Existence (21) *****

This is the arete that is visible on the skyline as you approach from Spout Cave, and is a few meters right of The Tabhomi Gun Show. Start directly below the sharp edge half way up. Climb dead straight up the arête with much satisfaction.

FA: R. Halsey and M. Thilo

NW Pillar 2.JPG

Left: The Tabhomi Gun Show, right: Edge of Existence

Water Karma (21) ***

Starts to the left of Thimble up an easy break, then follows the centre of the wall to the right of Edge of Existence

  • Pitch 1. 10m (15)

Pull up into the easy break that is above a lower overhang with a large boulder inside it. At the ledge step meters left to below wall between the arête and the easy ground on Thimble.

  • Pitch 2. 40m (21)

Follow a series of vertical crack up the wall to an overlap. Step right and pull up into a thin crack. At the finger rail head left and then straight up the wall

FA: Richard Halsey and Megan Beaumont (March 2019)

Cocoa Corner (18) ***

  • Pitch 1. 40m (18)

From the first ledge above the ground, follow the large left facing brown corner, to the right of Water Karma. At the top of the corner step right and then straight to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey and Megan Beaumont (March 2019)

Malteaser (18) ***

  • Pitch 1. 40m (18)

Climb the vague arête that forms the right side of the right wall of Cocoa corner. Beware- there is a large loose block at the top of the arête. Avoid this by traversing right a bit below it and climb the face just to the right to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey and Megan Beaumont (March 2019)


L>R Water Karma, Cocoa Corner Malteaser

Pedestal Face (18) ***

Start several meters to the right of Pedestal Corner. Climb the features on the part of the wall where it makes a blunt, 90 degree turn.

FA: Willem le Roux and Richard Halsey

Harem Globetrotters (18) ***

  • Pitch 1. 55m (18)

Start to the right of Pedestal Face from a rock ledge. Take the easy break that leads directly to the honeycomb section of rock seen from below. Climb just left of this and straight to the top

FA: Richard Halsey, Marian Penso, Rachel Strate, Karen van der Westhuizen (March 2019)


L>R Pedestal Face, Harem Globetrotters