Difference between revisions of "Outrageous Time 24 *****"

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'''Outrageous Time (24)'''<br />
 
'''Outrageous Time (24)'''<br />
 
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A fun route that offers steep climbing and a proper crux. Only red-pointed on fixed gear in-situ to date - Nov 2016.  Requires an on-sight without fixed gear so will probably be 25/26.  Starts about 25m right of the tea spot, just right of a small tree. A cairn against the base marks the spot.<br />
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A fun route that offers steep climbing and a proper crux. Requires an on-sight without fixed gear so will probably be 25/26.  Starts about 25m right of the tea spot, just right of a small tree. A cairn against the base marks the spot.<br />
 
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'''Pitch 1 (19) 35m'''
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'''Pitch 1 (20) 35m'''
 
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Climb straight up, turning a little roof on the left. Continue straight, stepping left onto a small arête that deposits you on a comfortable ledge. Stance here.<br />
 
Climb straight up, turning a little roof on the left. Continue straight, stepping left onto a small arête that deposits you on a comfortable ledge. Stance here.<br />
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Head straight up to a large ledge 30m above. Pull through the steepest part of the midway bulge on excellent holds. <br />
 
Head straight up to a large ledge 30m above. Pull through the steepest part of the midway bulge on excellent holds. <br />
  
'''Pitch 4 (21) 40m'''
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'''Pitch 4 (22) 40m'''
 
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Climb the left-tending crack to easy ground. Continue straight up, turning the roof via the grotty, vegetated break. Head 2m left to the start of a bottomless corner. Layback up the corner to a big roof (beware: loose rock). Step left around the arête and power through the roof. 20m of easy ground puts you on a big ledge below a white, lichen-covered face. <br />
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Climb the left-tending crack to easy ground. Continue straight up, turning the roof either by a very long reach or finding a crimp up and right. Head 2m left to the start of a bottomless corner. Layback up the corner to a big roof (beware: loose rock). Step left around the arête and power through the roof. 20m of easy ground puts you on a big ledge below a white, lichen-covered face. <br />
  
 
'''Pitch 5 (21) 25m'''
 
'''Pitch 5 (21) 25m'''
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Note:  The crack is a little awkward and it is hard to protect lower down.  <br />
 
Note:  The crack is a little awkward and it is hard to protect lower down.  <br />
 
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'''Decent:''' Walk 50m left to the abseil line. Three quick raps put you back on the floor.<br />
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'''Descent:''' Walk 50m left to the abseil line. Three quick raps put you back on the ground.<br />
 
'''Gear:''' The route is protected with a standard rack (10 x wires, Camalots, Aliens, a dozen slings and draws, 2 x 50m ropes) <br />
 
'''Gear:''' The route is protected with a standard rack (10 x wires, Camalots, Aliens, a dozen slings and draws, 2 x 50m ropes) <br />
 
'''FA:''' Charles Edelstein, Richard Halsey, Adam Roff (pitches 1-4); Charles Edelstein and Willem le Roux (pitch 5) – November 2015 <br />
 
'''FA:''' Charles Edelstein, Richard Halsey, Adam Roff (pitches 1-4); Charles Edelstein and Willem le Roux (pitch 5) – November 2015 <br />
'''FFA:''' Willem le Roux and Douw Steyn – January 2016
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'''FFA:''' Willem le Roux and Douw Steyn – January 2016 <br />
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'''First onsight with fixed nuts on 2nd pitch:'''  Jimbo Smith Nov 2016

Revision as of 12:01, 26 November 2016

Outrageous Time (24)

A fun route that offers steep climbing and a proper crux. Requires an on-sight without fixed gear so will probably be 25/26. Starts about 25m right of the tea spot, just right of a small tree. A cairn against the base marks the spot.

Pitch 1 (20) 35m
Climb straight up, turning a little roof on the left. Continue straight, stepping left onto a small arête that deposits you on a comfortable ledge. Stance here.

Pitch 2 (24 redpoint!) 25m
From the stance, climb diagonally left to the base of a steep orange wall. Strenuous moves past two fixed wires take you to easier terrain. Follow the crack for about five meters. A rising traverse to the right gains the face below a break in the roof. Climb up to the break, then crank through the roof. Step right to stance on the small ledge just over the lip.

Pitch 3 (19) 30m
Head straight up to a large ledge 30m above. Pull through the steepest part of the midway bulge on excellent holds.

Pitch 4 (22) 40m
Climb the left-tending crack to easy ground. Continue straight up, turning the roof either by a very long reach or finding a crimp up and right. Head 2m left to the start of a bottomless corner. Layback up the corner to a big roof (beware: loose rock). Step left around the arête and power through the roof. 20m of easy ground puts you on a big ledge below a white, lichen-covered face.

Pitch 5 (21) 25m
Climb up the centre of the white, lichen-covered face to a ledge below a flaring, overhanging crack. Follow the crack to the top of the buttress.
Note: The crack is a little awkward and it is hard to protect lower down.

Descent: Walk 50m left to the abseil line. Three quick raps put you back on the ground.
Gear: The route is protected with a standard rack (10 x wires, Camalots, Aliens, a dozen slings and draws, 2 x 50m ropes)
FA: Charles Edelstein, Richard Halsey, Adam Roff (pitches 1-4); Charles Edelstein and Willem le Roux (pitch 5) – November 2015
FFA: Willem le Roux and Douw Steyn – January 2016
First onsight with fixed nuts on 2nd pitch: Jimbo Smith Nov 2016