Rehab Crag

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Rehab Crag

Ad climbza montagu info.jpg

Latitude
Longitude
Climbing TypeSport
Crag GradientOverhanging
Walk in{{{Walkin}}}
Crag AspectShade from midday onwards in summer.
ProvinceWestern Cape
AreaMontagu
SectorBad Kloof


The Rehab Crag has immaculate rock and is beautifully overhanging. The base requires a small scramble to get up to and is not child friendly. It's the crag that probably every climber has walked past and wondered if there was anything there. Finally, Sakkie Janse van Rensburg did the legwork and got this crag started. On the 1st January, 2023, the first route was opened there called Back Rehab Fest, a homage to comebacks. There is plenty of scope for hard lines on the right (which will go into shade mid-morning) and easier lines to the left.

Access from the Avalon Springs side of Bad Kloof. As you walk in, look for the sign that points to the right. You will cross the river and go up 3 flights of stairs. Break off to the left and walk along the ledge until the next gully. Head up the gully towards the obvious cave. The last bit is a scramble with staples.

Updated PDF May 2023 --> File:Rehab 4 pdf.pdf


The Rehab Crag routes from left to right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Relapse 7a/24 ? Bolts + chains FA. Elle Pelser 2023. Area on the left. Go around the bulge on the left of the main area. Maillon halfway up to assist with cleaning.
2. Resilience 6a/18 ? Bolts + chains FA. Sakkie JV Rensburg 2023. Starts up the slab right of Relapse and steps across left onto a stunning headwall.
3. Vertigo 6a/18 10 Bolts + chains FA. Aria JV Rensburg 2023. Note that there are two sets of chains. Be sure to continue to the second set to complete the route.
4. Moonboot 6a+/19 12 Bolts + chains FA. Sakkie JV Rensburg 2023.
5. Pins and Needles 6a+/19 9 Bolts + chains FA. Elzanne JV Rensburg 2023.
6. Pins and Laughter 6b/20 9 Bolts + chains FA. Elle Pelser 2023. Start on first 3 draws of Pins and Needles and then continue on Laughter to the chains. A nice variation of both lines.
7. Laughter 6c/22 9 Bolts + chains FA. Elle Pelser 2023.
8. Snake Oil 6c/22 10 Bolts + chains FA. Elle Pelser 2023.
9. Macrophage 6c+/23 10 Bolts + chains FA. Sarel JV Rensburg 2023.
10. Booster Shot 7b/26 10 Bolts + chains FA. Elle Pelser 2023.
11. Back Rehab Feat 7a+/25 12 Bolts + chains FA. Sakkie JV Rensburg 2023.
12. Elixir 7b/26 9 Bolts + chains FA. Elle Pelser 2023.
13. Deep Heat 7b/26 ? Bolts + chains FA. Elle Pelser 2023.
14. Ice Man 7b+/27 9 Bolts + chains FA. Elle Pelser 2023. Variation of Deep Heat. Veers right after bolt 4 and joins back 3 bolts later.
15. Hypnotic 7a+/25 11 Bolts + chains FA. Sakkie JV Rensburg 2023.
16. Neurogenesis 7c+/29 9 Bolts + chains FA. Olaf de Wet 2023.
17. Flex Appeal (project) 28/7c 7 Bolts + chains FA. Traverse in from Neurogenesis (unclipping Neurogenesis's quickdraws as you go to prevent rope drag).
18. Getafix 24/7a 11 Bolts + chains FA. Sakkie JV Rensburg 2023. On the far right in the cave (before you get to the staples).