Rock 'n Roll
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Guano Caves is a private resort that offers accomodation and is a wonderful place for young families to visit as it offers a lot of activities for the kids such as an animal farm and swimming. Rock n Roll Kloof is situated in the resort. Development of this kloof began in 2023. Climbing on the property is free to people staying in the accommodation, or a small fee is levied for day visitors. For more information and to book accommodation please visit www.montaguguanocave.co.za or call 023 100 2972.
Bolting is allowed here, but check where existing trad routes are before bolting a line. So far the kloof offers routes ranging from 16-29 with scope for more.
How to get there • Drive on the R62 from Montagu towards Barrydale for about 7 km until you see a sign on pointing to the entrance to the Guano Cave Resort which will be on your right. At the main gate you will sign an indemnity form and pay a small entrance fee. From here follow the cement road which veers to the left past the office block and continues to the T-junction where you turn right. Follow the road, keeping right at the stone circle, then left at the next fork and carry on straight, past a bank of solar panels on your left. Continue straight, past a small “private property” sign, until you get to a confluence of four roads. Go straight over and continue on to reach a gates. Go through the gate. PLEASE KEEP THE GATE CLOSED AT ALL TIMES. Once through the gate, continue along a stony road for a few 100 metres, to reach a car park, which can park over 20 cars, made specially for climbers by the owners. At the top end of the car park and to your right, you will find a cairn marking the start of the path. Approach 20 mins, flatish.
Follow the path around the hill and continue up gentle slopes to reach the small river bed. Continue along, then go up to the left to the sport crags. Crime of the Century, the 4-pitch trad route is on the huge Supertramp Buttress on the right of the kloof. In Summer, the Floyd Sectors and Shine on Prow - Front are in the shade only early morning. Shine on Prow - Right and Metal Haven are in the shade till roughly 14:30 in summer, almost all day in winter. Supertramp Buttress gets into the shade from middle of the day onwards.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION | |
| Floyd Sector - Final Cut | Stand-alone pillar opposite the Obscured Wall | ||||||
| 1. | Get Your Filthy Hands off my Dessert | 6c/22 | ? bolts + chains | FA. G. Jacobs Aug 2024 | |||
| Floyd Sector - Obscured Wall | |||||||
| 1. | Obscured by Clouds | 6b/20 | 11 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens Aug 2023 | |||
| 2. | Comfortably Numb | 6a+/19 | 9 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens Aug 2023 | |||
| 3. | Dark Side of the Moon | 6c/22 | 9 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens Nov 2023 | |||
| 4. | Pulse | 7a+/25 | 8 bolts + chains | FA. Hans n Hans Dec 2023 | Right variation is 7a+/25. Left variation is harder (open project) | ||
| 5. | Mother | 6b+/21 | Trad | FA: G. Jacobs, HP. Bakker, T. Lourens July 2023 | P1. 15m 14; 2. 25m 21. | ||
| 6. | Fearless | 7a/24 | 16 bolts + chains | 70m rope | FA: G. Jacobs Aug 2023 | Starts from the wooden platform | |
| 7. | Stay | 6a+/25 | 14 bolts + chains | 70m rope | FA: G. Jacobs Aug 2023 | Starts on the right side of the wooden platform | |
| Floyd Sector - Crazy Diamond Tower | |||||||
| 8. | Echoes | 6b+/21 | 9 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens July 2023 | |||
| 9. | Goodbye Blue Sky | 6a/17 | 10 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens July 2023 | |||
| 10. | Saucerful of Secrets | 6b/20 | 13 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens July 2023 | |||
| 11. | Welcome to the Machine | 6b/20 | 20 bolts + chains | 70m rope | FA. T. Lourens July 2023 | ||
| 12. | Wish You Were Here | 6b+/21 | 20 bolts + chains | 70m rope | FA. T. Lourens Aug 2023 | ||
| 13. | Have a Cigar | 6a+/19 | 10 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens Sept 2023 | |||
| 14. | Another Brick in the Wall | 5c/17 | Trad | FA: T. Lourens, M. Beaumont Aug 2023 | P1. 20m 17; P2. 20m 12. | ||
| 15. | Breathe | 6c/22 | Trad, no anchors | FA. M. Robinson Feb 2024 | P1. 20m 12; P2. 20m 22. On the back of the Crazy Diamond Tower. | ||
| Floyd Sector - Shine on Prow - Left | |||||||
| 16. | The Endless River | 5b+/17 | Trad | FA: R. Halsey Nov 2023 | P1. 34m 17 | ||
| 17. | The Division Bell | 5c+/19 | Trad | FA: R. Halsey Nov 2023 | P1. 34m 19 | ||
| 18. | Sheep | 5b/16 | Trad | FA: T. Lourens, HP. Bakker Sept 2023 | P1. 20m 16 | ||
| Floyd Sector - Shine on Prow - Front | |||||||
| 19. | Pigs (3 Different Ones) | 6a+/19 | 8 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens Sept 2023 | |||
| 20. | Dogs | 6a/18 | Trad | FA: HP. Bakker, T. Lourens Sept 2023 | P1. 30m 18 | ||
| Floyd Sector - Shine on Prow - Right | |||||||
| 21. | Empty Spaces | 6a+/19 | 13 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens Oct 2023 | Keep out of the horrible off width near the beginning of the route. Loose rock. | ||
| 22. | Interstellar Overdrive | 6b/20 | 11 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens Oct 2023 | |||
| 23. | The Wall | 6c+/23 | 11 bolts + chains | FA. J. Munk Oct 2023 | It's recommended to pre-clip to the second bolt. | ||
| Mirage Wall | |||||||
| 1. | Super Twister | 6c/22 | 17 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens Jan 2024 | |||
| 2. | The Snow Goose | 6c+/23 | 8 bolts + chains | FA. E. Pelser Jul 2024 | |||
| 3. | Mystic Queen | 7b+/27 | 7 bolts + chains | FA. D. Miles Sept 2024. BB. E. Pelser | |||
| 4. | Finger Tips | 7a+/25 | 8 bolts + chains | FA. G. Jacobs May 2024 | |||
| 5. | Freefall | 7b/26 | 8 bolts + chains | FA. G. Jacobs June 2024 | |||
| 6. | Rain Dancers | 6b+/21 | 7 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens June 2024 | |||
| Bass Camp Terrace | Scramble further up the gully, hugging the left hand wall. Bass Camp Terrace is above the tea cave. | ||||||
| 1. | Blind Faith | 6c/22 | 5 bolts + chains | FA. J. Temple-Forbes July 2024 | |||
| 2. | Come Out and Play | 6c+/23 | 5 bolts + chains | FA. E. Pelser Mar 2024 | Upgraded from 21. | ||
| 3. | Thunderstruck | 6c+/23 | 4 bolts + chains | FA. E. Pelser Mar 2024 | Shares chains with Come Out and Play. Upgraded from 22. | ||
| 4. | Metalito | 6c+/23 | 6 bolts + chains | FA. M. Acosta June 2024, BB. B. Theron | Starts on Thunderstruck and splits off right. | ||
| 5. | Enter Sandman | 6c/22 | 7 bolts + chains | FA. B. Marx Nov 2023 | |||
| 6. | Crack Cocaine | 6b+/21 | 7 bolts + chains | FA. E. Pelser June 2024 | Shares first 2 bolts with Enter Sandman and then goes left following the obvious crack. Ends on chains of Thunderstruck. Probably better to back climb to clean. | ||
| 7. | Nitro | 6b+/21 | 7 bolts + chains | FA. E. Pelser Apr 2024 | Shares first bolt with Enter Sandman and then goes right. End in laybacks on the left. | ||
| 8. | Paradise City | 6c+/23 | 9 bolts + chains | FA. E. Pelser May 2024 | Harder variation to Nitro. Splits right at 6th bolt. | ||
| Metal Haven | |||||||
| 1. | The Beautiful People | 6c+/23 | 8 bolts + chains | FA. R. Halsey Dec 2023 | |||
| 2. | Invincible | 7a+/25 | 10 bolts + chains | FA. R. Halsey Nov 2023 | Upgraded from 24. | ||
| 3. | Flying Whales | 7b/26 | 8 bolts + chains | BB. B Theron, FA. D. Coetzee Aug 2024 | |||
| 4. | Shadowkings | 6c+/23 | 8 bolts + chains | FA. R. Halsey Jan 2024 | Upgraded from 22. | ||
| 5. | Last Ride of the Day | 6c+/23 | 9 bolts + chains | FA. R Halsey Nov 2023 | |||
| 6. | Yukon | 6c+/23 | 11 bolts + chains | FA. R Halsey Nov 2023 | Link up that avoids desperate start on Awake. Extra bolt indicates where to move right. | ||
| 7. | Digital Bath | 7c/28? | 10 bolts + chains | FA. R Halsey Nov 2023 | Link up from Awake to Last Ride of the Day. Extra bolt indicates where to move left. Consensus grading needed | ||
| 8. | The Awakening | 7a+/25? | 10 bolts + chains | Bolted by R Halsey Nov 2023 | Easier, left version to Awake that shares crack with Last Ride of the Day. Too far from original 3rd bolt so new bolt was added. Probably 24 if you have efficient sequence. | ||
| 8(a). | Awake | 7c/28? | 10 bolts + chains | FA. R Halsey Nov 2023 | Does not use left crack. Consensus grading needed. | ||
| 9. | Honking Antelope | 7b/26 | 9 bolts + chains | FA. B Theron May 2024 | Starts on first 3 bolts of The Awakening and then climbs right. | ||
| 10. | Addicted to Chaos | 7b+/27? | 13 bolts + chains | FA. JTF May 2024 | Starts on first 5 bolts of Honking Antelope and then carries on further right and up (follow the blue painted bolts). | ||
| 11. | Fear of the Dark | 7a/+/24/25 | ? bolts + chains | Link-up (no extra bolts) from Honking Antelope till about halfway, trav right to finish on Take a Look Around. Same grade as The Awakening - whatever that settles on. | |||
| 12. | Rollin' | 7a/+/24/25 | ? bolts + chains | Link-up (no extra bolts) from Take a Look Around till bolt 7, then hard left into Honking Antelope. | |||
| 13. | Take a Look Around | 7a/24 | 10 bolts + chains | FA. R Halsey Dec 2023 | Could be 24/7a | ||
| 14. | Wherever I May Roam | 7c/28 | 10 bolts + chains | FA. R Halsey Nov 2023 | |||
| 15. | Got the Life | 7a/24 | 12 bolts + chains | FA. R Halsey Nov 2023 | |||
| 16. | Closed Project | ? | ? bolts + chains | (JTF) | |||
| 16. | The Hunt | 7b+/27 | 12 bolts + chains | FA. R Halsey Nov 2023 | |||
| 17. | Nice Boys Don't Play Rock 'n Roll | 7b/26? | 11 bolts + chains | FA. D Moolman June 2024 | Danie's first sport climb and what a goodie. Flaring crack, bring your smearing A-game. Stick clip 2nd bolt advised. Joins The Hunt at the 5th bolt. | ||
| 18. | Ghost River | 7b+/27 | 11 bolts + chains | FA. R Halsey Dec 2023 | |||
| 19. | Devil's Dance | 7c/28 | 10 bolts + chains | FA. R Halsey Nov 2023 | |||
| 20. | All Within My Hands | 7c/28 | 12 bolts + chains | FA. J. Temple-Forbes March 2024 | Climb Devil’s Dance till the 7th bolt. Don’t clip this bolt but the next bolt to the right. | ||
| 21. | Down with the Sickness | 6a+/19 | Trad | FA. R. Halsey & G. Wright June 2024 | P1. 20m 19: At the very top of Metal Gulley there is a steep orange corner with a fairly wide crack, opposite the Symphony of Sickness wall. Climb the corner crack and exit left. Tat anchor to the right near a tree. | ||
| 22. | Symphony of Sickness | 7a/24 | Trad | FA. G. Bird, D. Le Roux April 2024 | P1. 20m 24: At the very top of Metal Haven it steepens into a chimney on the right. On the right wall are two crack lines. Symphony of Sickness takes the right hand one, which splits a smooth white face at the top. | ||
| The Punk Wall | Approach - As for Metal Haven. The face directly opposite. | ||||||
| 1. | Sex Pistols | 6a+/19 | 7 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens June 2024 | |||
| 2. | Stranglers | 6b/20 | 8 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens June 2024 | Follows the thin seam. | ||
| Wonder Wall | |||||||
| 1. | Supersonic | 5b/16 | 8 bolts + chains | FA. M. Beaumont April 2024 | |||
| 2. | Tangerine | 6a/18 | 7 bolts + chains | FA. C. Hovy Nov 2023 | |||
| 3. | Gas Panic | 6b/20 | 4 bolts + chains | FA. G. Jacobs April 2024 | |||
| 4. | Standing on the Shoulders of Giants | 5a/15 | 6 bolts + chains | FA. M. Beaumont April 2024 | |||
| Yes Buttress | |||||||
| 1. | Lonely heart | 21 | Trad | FA. C Edelstein, B Russel June 2024 | Tricky start to attain arete. Tricky move past tree and then climb arete. Lower off from Into the Lens | ||
| 2. | Tempus Fugus | 19 | Trad | C Edelstein and Mark Straughan June 2024 | Start as for Into the Lens and then climb out left into the crack system. Lower off from Into the Lens. | ||
| 3. | Into the Lens | 6a/18 | 12 bolts + chains | FA. G. Jacobs, T. Lourens Jan 2024 | |||
| 4. | Mirror to the Sky | 7a/24 | ? bolts + chains | BB. Charles Edelstein. FA. J. Swinney July 2024 | |||
| 5. | Hold On | 20 | Trad | BB. Charles Edelstein and Brent Russel June 2024 | Start as for Mirror and head out right and climb the crack system on the front of the buttress. Lower of bolts on Mirror | ||
| Alternative Alley | |||||||
| 1. | Hitchin’ a Ride | 7a+/24? | 7 bolts + chains | FA. R. Halsey March 2024 | |||
| 2. | Gotta Get Away | 7c+/29? | 8 bolts + chains | FA. R. Halsey July 2024 | Crux is short, and possible height dependant, so best guess at grade. Probably between 28 and 30? | ||
| Raging Slab | |||||||
| 1. | Don't Dog me | P1. 25m 23? | FA. Richard Halsey, Tony Lourens Feb 2024 | Follow the discontinued crack, takes good gear. | |||
| 21st Century Buttress | This buttress is the 50-metres-high bastion just to the left of the huge Supertramp Buttress. | ||||||
| 1. | Moonchild | P1. 6a+/18. P2. 6b/19. | P1. 9 bolts + chains. P2. 9 bolts + chains | FA. Garvin Jacobs, Tony Lourens, March 2024 | |||
| 2. | The Devil's Triangle | 6a/17 | Trad | FA. Tony Lourens, Garvin Jacobs, March 2024 | P1. 20m 17; P2. 25m 17 | ||
| 3. | Schizoid Man | 6b+/21 | Trad | FA. Garvin Jacobs, Tony Lourens, March 2024 | P1. 25m 21; P2. 25m 21 | ||
| Supertramp Buttress | |||||||
| 1. | Crisis What Crisis? | P1. 6a+/19. P2. 6c/22 | P1. 12 bolts +chains. P2. 7 bolts + chains | FA. Tony Lourens, Garvin Jacobs Jan 2024 | Shares the start with Breakfast in America. Can be done in one long pitch, then lower off in two. P1. 25m; P2. 15m. | ||
| 2. | Breakfast in America | 6a/18 | Trad | FA: Tony Lourens, Garvin Jacobs 4 Nov 2023 | P1. 20m 16; P2. 20m 18 | ||
| 3. | Asylum | 6a/18 | Trad | FA: Richard Halsey, Elle Pelser Jan 2024 | P1. 25m 18 | ||
| 4. | Crime of the Century | 6a+/19 | Trad | FA: Tony Lourens, Richard Halsey, Rachel Strate 24 May 2023 | P1. 15m 16; P2. 25m 18; P3. 20m 19; P4. 30m 16 | ||
| 5. | Babaji | 6b+/21 | Trad | FA: Charles Edelstein, David Webster March 2024 | P1. 15m 16; P2. 35m 21; P3. 25m 19 | ||
| 6. | Dreamer | 6c/22 | 17 bolts + chains | FA: Bernie Theron Jan 2024 | Can be done in 2 pitches (intended as one pitch though). 80 meter rope required (or 70/60 meter gets you to lower off-chains). | ||
| 5. | Child of Vision | 6c+/23 | 1. 30m 22/6c [12B,C] First pitch of Dreamer. 2. 18m 23/6c+ [8B,C] | FA: Bernie Theron March 2024 | Can be done in 2 pitches (intended as one pitch though). 80 meter rope required (or 70/60 meter gets you to lower off-chains). | ||
| 6. | C'est Le Bon | 6c+/23 | Trad chain lower off | FFA: C Edelstein and Duncan Edelstein June 2024 | Starts in the corner to the right of Dreamer. | P1. 30m 20; P2. 40m 23 | |
| Black Sabbath Fin | |||||||
| 1. | Iron Man | 6b+/21 | Trad | FA: P1 and 2 Charles Edelstein, Amber De Dekker, P3 Charles. Edelstein, David Webster | P1. 35m 18; P2. 35m 21; P3. 20m 19 | ||
| 2. | War Pigs | 22 | Trad | FA: C Edelstein with Brent Russel and Mark Straughan May 2024 | P1. | ||
| 3 | Into the Void | 6b+/21 | Trad | FA: P1 Charles Edelstein, P2 Charles Edelstein, Willem Le Roux | P1. 50m 19; P2. 10m 21; P3. 20m 19; P4. 25m 18 | ||
| 4 | Hand of Doom | 22 | Trad | ||||
| 5. | Paranoid | 6b+/21 | Trad | FA: Charles Edelstein, Mark Straughan March 2024 | P1. 45m 21; P2. 15m 18; P3. 20-25m 18-19 - Climb the right (preferably) or left version to the top of the pinnacle. | ||
| 6. | Psycho Man | 6b+/21 | Trad | FA: Charles Edelstein May 2024 | P1. 30m 21 ; P2. 45m 21; | ||
| 7. | Master of Reality | 22 | Trad | ||||
| 8. | Master if Insanity | 21 | Trad | FA Charles Edelstein and Duncan Edelstein | |||
| 9. | Changes | 6b+/21 | Trad | ||||
| 10. | Supernaut | 22 | Trad | ||||
| The Ring - Rhinegold Sector | The slabs above the parking lot. | ||||||
| 1. | Fasolt | 6a+/19 | 10 bolts + chains | FA. HP. Bakker 2024 | |||
| 2. | Freia | 6b/20 | 7 bolts + chains | FA. HP. Bakker 2024 | |||
| 3. | Fafner | 6a/18 | 11 bolts + chains | FA. HP. Bakker 2024 | |||
| The Ring - Siegfried Sector | |||||||
| 4. | Dragon Blood | 6b/20 | 14 bolts + chains | FA. HP. Bakker 2024 | |||
| 5. | Ring of Power | 6c+/23? | 10 bolts + chains | Closed Project (T. Lourens) | |||
| The Ring - Valkyrie Sector | |||||||
| 1. | The Magic Sword | 6a+/19 | 14 bolts + chains | FA. T. Lourens 2024 | |||
| 2. | The Valkyrie | 6b+/21 | 14 bolts + chains | FA. HP. Bakker 2024 | |||
| 3. | Beef with Wotan | 6a+/19 | 8 bolts + chains | FA. F. Bakker 2024 | |||
| 4. | Fricka’s Surprise | 6a/18 | 9 bolts + chains | FA. HP. Bakker 2024 | |||
| 5. | Rock with Brünnhilde | 6b+/21 | 13 bolts + chains | FA. HP. Bakker 2024 | |||
| 6. | Fingering Loge | 6c/22 | 12 bolts + chains | FA. HP. Bakker 2024 | |||
| The Ring - Götterdämmerung Sector | |||||||
| 7. | Rhinemaiden’s Gold (project) | ? | ? bolts + chains | Closed project (HP. Bakker) | |||
| 8. | Castle Gibichung | 6b+/21 | 12 bolts + chains | FA. HP. Bakker 2024 |
