Difference between revisions of "Time Lapse 23 A1 or 20 A1 ***"

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[[File:Time_Elapse_23_A1.jpg|1000px]]
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[[File: Time_Lapse_Photo_Topo.jpg|1000px]]
  
 
Start: View the topo on the photograph. The route starts 15m right of the water drip and collection point at  more or less in the middle of the Divine Time Buttress. Step off grass polls to start.
 
Start: View the topo on the photograph. The route starts 15m right of the water drip and collection point at  more or less in the middle of the Divine Time Buttress. Step off grass polls to start.
  
Pitch 1 : (17) 55m Follow the line of the photo topo to stance below the orange band.  The climbing is much better than the lichen covered rock  would suggest.  A a point about 25m high move left on a thin rail to climb the clean arete to a ledge. Stance here or continue another 25m to stance below the yellow band of rock.
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Pitch 1 : (17) 55m Follow the line of the photo topo to stance below the orange band.  The climbing is much better than the lichen covered rock  would suggest.  A a point about 20m high move left on a thin rail to climb the clean arête to a ledge. Stance here or continue another 25m to stance below the yellow band of rock.
  
Pitch 2 : (23 A1 or 20 A1) 25m Climb the recess with the black streaks just to the right of the red leaning ramp of Divine Time.  Excellent pro can be placed for the first 5 metres or so.  Challenging and powerful moves (23) are required to reach the first jug if you are short. Otherwise a high place cam can be used (20). Once in the recess the difficulty eases but is a little run-out for 3m to easy ground.  Climb through the overhang using the undercut jamb crack just to right of Divine Time crux (A1)
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Pitch 2 : (24) 27m Climb the recess with the black streaks just to the right of the red leaning ramp of Divine Time.  Excellent pro can be placed for the first 5 metres or so.  Challenging and powerful moves (23) are required to reach the first jug. Once in the recess the difficulty eases but is a little run-out and pumpy for 3m to easy ground.  Climb through the overhang using the undercut jamb crack just to right of Divine Time crux (24)
  
Pitch 3 (17) 25m Climb the ramp on the left to around the corner.  Climb up the deep recess for two metres or so and then step right on to the arete. Climb this easily to even easier ground to a large ledge system.  Outrageous Time and Divine Time share this stance.
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Pitch 3 (20) 25m Climb straight up just left of Divine Time and pull through the overhang on good holds. Climb t easier ground to a large ledge system. By-pass a loose 1.5m rock pillar carefully on its right(Needs to be trundled but our stuff was exposed at the base) Outrageous Time and Divine Time share this stance.
  
Pitch 4 (18/19) 40m Climb onto the left leaning ramp and continue to below the huge overhang.  Outrageous Time cranks through the middle and Divine Time climbs round the right side.  Sling the horn and crank through the overhanging crack on the left of the overhang.  (Much easier than it looks) into the chimney.  Climb out the right on flakes to the arete and continue to a stance shared by Play Time.
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Pitch 4 (18/19) 40m Climb onto the left leaning lichen covered ramp and move right to continue round blocks to below the huge overhang.  Outrageous Time cranks through the middle and Divine Time climbs round the right side.  Sling the horn and crank through the overhanging crack on the left of the overhang.  (Much easier than it looks) into the chimney.  Climb out the right on flakes to the arête and continue to a stance shared by Play Time.
  
Pitch 5 : (16) 40m Play Time goes straight up but move to the left and head out to the grey arete and climb this to where it gets easy.  Easily traverse to the Timerity Abseil point and stance there.
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Pitch 5 : (16) 40m Play Time goes straight up but move to the left and head out to the grey arête and climb this to where it gets easy.  Easily traverse to the Timerity Abseil point and stance there.
  
Comment:  This route is worth doing even if you use aid on the 2nd pitch.  The pro is really excellent the whole way and the rock quality as good as one gets at Yellowwood.  But it is still Yellowwood climbing that requires care and expertise to navigate safely.
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Comment:  This route is worth doing even if you use aid on the 2nd pitch (grade 20 A1).  The pro is really excellent the whole way and the rock quality as good as one gets at Yellowwood.  But it is still Yellowwood climbing that requires care and expertise to navigate safely.
  
 
First ascent C Edelstein and B Russell 3 November 2016
 
First ascent C Edelstein and B Russell 3 November 2016
FFA to be done
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FFA (clean) to be done but the second crux moves red-pointed by Willem Le Roux and C Edelstein on 20 November 2016.  Needs enormous strength or some luck to get the sequence right on this crux at grade 24.

Latest revision as of 08:27, 21 November 2016

Time Lapse Photo Topo.jpg

Start: View the topo on the photograph. The route starts 15m right of the water drip and collection point at more or less in the middle of the Divine Time Buttress. Step off grass polls to start.

Pitch 1 : (17) 55m Follow the line of the photo topo to stance below the orange band. The climbing is much better than the lichen covered rock would suggest. A a point about 20m high move left on a thin rail to climb the clean arête to a ledge. Stance here or continue another 25m to stance below the yellow band of rock.

Pitch 2 : (24) 27m Climb the recess with the black streaks just to the right of the red leaning ramp of Divine Time. Excellent pro can be placed for the first 5 metres or so. Challenging and powerful moves (23) are required to reach the first jug. Once in the recess the difficulty eases but is a little run-out and pumpy for 3m to easy ground. Climb through the overhang using the undercut jamb crack just to right of Divine Time crux (24)

Pitch 3 (20) 25m Climb straight up just left of Divine Time and pull through the overhang on good holds. Climb t easier ground to a large ledge system. By-pass a loose 1.5m rock pillar carefully on its right. (Needs to be trundled but our stuff was exposed at the base) Outrageous Time and Divine Time share this stance.

Pitch 4 (18/19) 40m Climb onto the left leaning lichen covered ramp and move right to continue round blocks to below the huge overhang. Outrageous Time cranks through the middle and Divine Time climbs round the right side. Sling the horn and crank through the overhanging crack on the left of the overhang. (Much easier than it looks) into the chimney. Climb out the right on flakes to the arête and continue to a stance shared by Play Time.

Pitch 5 : (16) 40m Play Time goes straight up but move to the left and head out to the grey arête and climb this to where it gets easy. Easily traverse to the Timerity Abseil point and stance there.

Comment: This route is worth doing even if you use aid on the 2nd pitch (grade 20 A1). The pro is really excellent the whole way and the rock quality as good as one gets at Yellowwood. But it is still Yellowwood climbing that requires care and expertise to navigate safely.

First ascent C Edelstein and B Russell 3 November 2016 FFA (clean) to be done but the second crux moves red-pointed by Willem Le Roux and C Edelstein on 20 November 2016. Needs enormous strength or some luck to get the sequence right on this crux at grade 24.