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Where all the action happens!

Berrisfords Route

Camerons Route *** E2

A. Cameron and B. Cameron 1936

"A long, popular classic, but only becasue no other easy route goes up this impressive wall"

Start: The ridge up the start of the Climbing proper begins on the right of the Du Toits Kloof Hotel, and leads down almost to the river. Walk up the ridge to the first high rock band. This takes approximately 1.5 hours from the hotel. The first Pitch is up a steep little gully towards the left side of the buttress.

Pitch 1. 10m (E2) Pull up into a crabby chimney/crack ( Awkward). Continue up the gully to a long grassy ramp 5m higher. Poor rock on this pitch. Walk 25m to the top of the slope.

Pitch 2. 10m (D) The scruffy short rock step is climbed in the grassy corner, to the shoulder where the main rib now runs at a right angle to the cliff above. Walk up to the left edge under a tall recessed corner.

Pitch 3. 20m (C) Step up and traverse diagonally left to a little stance around the side, below some grotty looking ramps.

Pitch 4. 20m (E1) Continue up the ramp to a section of broken faces.

Pitch 6. 10m (C) A Bushy gully leads to below a steep orange wall

Pitch 7. 30m (E2) Climb a steep water worn face to get into a slanting chimney next to the orange wall. Climb this and a grassy chute above. Another 10m higher is a shoulder where the ridge turns left. Scramble up the for 1.5 rope lengths to the face above.

Pitch 8. 45m (C) Just right of the edge, climb an easy face to a traverse line left, just as the rock starts to look awkward above.

Pitch 9. 12/m (E1) Starting with a step up, the exposed edge of the corner is climbed.

Pitch 10. One and a half rope lengths, (B). Up a grassy chute, followed by nondescript rock.

Pitch 11. 35m (E1) Climb just right of the knife-edge to a platform.

Pitch 12. 30m (B) Scramble to the next step in the knife edge.

Pitch 13. 30m (E2) A Tall pillar split by a classic jam crack is climbed to 20m to a small stance. Only 2 loose prongs at the start mar an otherwise 5 star pitch.Continue by swinging right around the corner and ascending to easier ground.

Pitch 14. 45m (C) Another grassy gully to a ledge.

Pitch 15. 50m (C) Up the left side of the arete to a chockstone-blocked chimney next to a smooth gendarme.

Pitch 16. 25m (E1) Step up to the right of he chockstone, do an awkward move on the corner, continue t a ledge at a wall with a vertical slit in it. Belay over in the corner on the right.

Pitch 17. 5m (E2) A short sharp struggle up the wide crack to a ledge.

Pitch 18. 22m (E1) Some grotty gullies, then an awkward crack is climbed to a rock platform where the ridge now lies back at an easy angle.

Pitch 19. Scramble to the final beacon.


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